IamScotticus

If you must go it alone, try supporting the wind screen with wide painters tape from the top of the screen to the front of the scuttle bulkhead. And the bottom edge to thd scuttle to keep ir from slipping. Let the screen sit on the rubber strip. Tape and protect all the scuttle area around the stanchion triangles. If you have stanchion brackets on the inside of the scuttle, loosen this to allow it to come up to the screen height, then bring the screen down while tightening the brackets back down to the frame. Warming the rubber with a hair dryer can make it more pliable.

Those are up to $400 now? I got mine at $200, ten years ago

Sorry, I see this and thought what I thought

Yes, environmental pollution Is a horrible thing and should be prevented. It takes a worldwide effort to curtail it. This topic should have been made in the political and controversy forum. The Mod, @JohnChshould move it there

Tariffs 101. An American wants to make doo-hickies. After tooling, materials, labor, insurances, taxes, certificates and compliance, leases, build-out costs, loan interest, adversising, warehouseing, whatever, the cost per doo-hickie is $1.00. Consumers will buy other doo-hickies at $2.00, not a penny more, the value isn't there. A 50% production cost is not sustainable. You're out of business on paper before you ever break ground. A foerigner in a far-away land is able to make comparable doo-hickies for the equivalent of .10 cents apiece and import them into the USA at a tariff rate of 3%, enabling him to sell doo-hickies at $2.00 and make a substantial profit. Therefore, what Americans have done is to contract manufacturing of doo-hickies to producers in foreign lands and import them to the USA to sell, or have the materials imported duty free and manufactured into whole products in foerign trade zones. Furthermore, even if the American can make doo-hickies for $1.00 apiece here, and wanted to sell them in foerign markets, those countries often have 20-40% tariff rates, therefore he is unable to manufacture in USA and sell to foerigners either. When you see all the foreign made products on store shelves, it's not because companies can't find USA workers to do those jobs, it's because regulation and costs in USA are too high and prohibitive to compete against the foerign importer taking advantage low production costs in his country and a low USA importation tariff rate. Tariffs are used, or should be used, to raise the foerigner's costs so the domestic producer can compete and has a shot at success. Once all the domestic support for doo-hickie making and selling is lost, it takes a long time to build it back. Since Americans are happy paying $2.00, or less, for a foreign made doo-hickie,

The tariff program is being executed about as well as the Afghanistan withdrawal program.

Clean

Omit

Amazon has been skimping on packaging and privacy by allowing the items to be delivered in the product packaging alone, saving the step of Amz from boxing. Which I understand. They save costs and you get it faster. But the turds see what you have. I was really upset recently when I got a book in an oversized box, with no packing, so the book could bounce around and damage the edges. Same with an aerosol can in which the cap cracked. Got an Amz item recently in an over size box, a 4x20" paper water filter. The packer put one little sheet of packaging paper in there. Really? The filter wouldn't have been damaged by a bump or two. But I will give Amz credit for trying to consolidate items into as few boxes as possible by giving me the option for a later delivery day. That's a good way to conserve resources. And they give me a dollar or two of credit for the save. That works for me. Oh, for others who are having delivery problems, Amz has those remote locker boxes you can have delivered to. There might be one near you. Amz gives them silly names like, Beauregard and Weezy.

Fried chicken grease has done very well in my car Could someone put up a link to the 303?

I pay almost $100 a year for a box at a parcel shipping business to ensure my items are accepted by a person. I shouldn't have to, but that's where we are.

Well, I've heard the best thing to clean carbs in is.... Wait for it..... Gasoline! Of course. I'm glad I have an extra CPAP for the ventilation I will need. I still like the idea of a sonic tank but not with gasoline in it.

These guys are the only source I know for new 7 fiber glass in the USA Wava Utt Motorsport Composites 2133 County Road W Grafton, WI 53024 262-375-1930 info@motorsportcomposites.com

Can't do much with alignment until you have full weight on the ground, including all fluids and passengers. One thing you can do now before the bay gets cluttered is index the true center of the steering rack. A mark on the shaft now will help you index the steering wheel later. It might be interesting to find out now if one side/arm is longer than the other.

I would invest in a sonic tank cleaner and use the recommended solution, whatever it is for aluminum. It may be your best cleaning method without a full tear down, which I would try to avoid. If you do tear down, leave the spindles and plates alone. But those DCOEs look like they should be fairly easy to clean as long as an emulsion tube or jet isn't seized inside. Just DON'T soak it in any solutions longer than necessary. I ruined a carb soaking it in simple green too long. All the surfaces went from smooth to pumice stone.

More true for the diff oil. New engines are built like sewing machines now, not as much break-in as the old days. The diff deserves more attention and has a more restrictive break-in.

Wrong charger for battery and not a smart charger. I know, I destroyed bats using dumb high voltage trickle charging.

@Timothy Keith-Lucaslets talk about on PM or phone so we don't hijack this thread.

Check your coolant. You likely will be filling some air pockets as you drive, especially during the harder throttling. If you have a heater plumber in, keep it on hot some time to allow the coolant to circulate through the heater and purge more air. Your coolant reservoir should be only half full at any time. This is the thing to watch now.

Still a lot of questions here. If Mudder puts in a logging AFR, it only shows his O2s based on what? An AFR meter doesn't know what test of fuel, altitude, compression ratio, blah blah blah...Murder needs to know what his ideal AFR should be based on his variables first, and it may not be the perfect stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1. So Mud needs to determine his Stoich point before an AFR is useful. hey, I say if you're blowing smoke, that's good

The OEM mechanical fuel pump does a good job of self regulating but can induce surges with throttle. There is a Solex pressure stabilizer available for this. https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/b26570.htm

Heh, just kidding, sort of. My contributions, FWIW... Tightening hose clamps... Headed for trouble. Tightening these often leads to more problems because the ideal clamps are spring types that apply a constant clamping force while allowing the materials to expand and contract with temperatures and don't squish the juices out of the rubber. Rubber isn't a fruit, but if you think of it as something soft that can dry out and become brittle, like a banana peel, you can understand. Get a pressure tester and try to find a leak. The guage will show a leak down. You don't always get a puddle on the ground. Watch your coolant expansion tank levels. Always suspect a bad tank cap as a culprit as these are cheap plastic parts and prone to fail. Be careful around the plastic nipples and barbs as they break and consider the hose routing. Secure hoses from bouncing around and rubbing on other things. This is not a car. It's an airplane on wheels. There is no set it and forget it. Everything can vibrate loose. Everything must be buttoned up, not too tight, and rechecked with use. Tightening fasteners tighter is not the way. Using techniques to prevent walk-out is. Lock washers, safety wire, tabs, and thread lock liquids should be used instead wrenching tighter on a fastener. Don't tell anyone, but you have a race car. Think like a pit crew. Carroll Smith book here is good info. https://www.carrollsmith.com/books/nutsbolts.html

Wolfman, It's a 1960s engine. It's a dirty engine and it likes it that way. I saw something on the FB Webber group, take it with caution... Someone had DCOE carb spitting and solved it by drilling a hole in the back cover plate. Don't know why it works. Two kinds of meters Air/Fuel Ratio meter- gives actual O2 readings. Need to know what to expect for your fuel type, altitude, etc. Wide band O2 / Lambda? A system that shows you the perfect AF reference point (stoich) and where the current AFR is in relation to that point. I don't know how the system knows the Stoic point for any engine, but it makes tuning more simplified. There are portable systems to stick in the pipe. I believe the Innovative LM1 was such a tool. @jbcollier uses one. JB gave really good advice a while back: "Get a O2 sensor bung welded into the exhaust right after all the pipes come together but before the muffler. Then buy an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge with a wide-band 02 sensor. I haven’t bought one in a while so I can’t give you any current advice there. I use an Innovate LM1 which is out of production now. I’m sure someone will chime in with more current recommendations. There are bluetooth gauges you can run off your phone. No need for a dash gauge. You’re going to dial in your carb and then unplug everything so no need for anything fancy, just functional. Warm up the car thoroughly. Then fit the O2 sensor and hook up your gauge per its instructions. Now go for a drive. Here are the critical modes to test: - part throttle, low rpm, steady state, between 25 and 35: in other words just moseying along. - part throttle, steady state around 50. - part throttle, steady state at hwy speeds In all these cases you want mid to low 13s. Anything exceeding 14 is too lean. This is mostly adjusted using the idle jets - medium acceleration from a rest to 35: low 13s to high 12s. Watch for faltering and lean/flat spots which may indicate too small an accel jet. - WOT, hard acceleration 3000 to 5000 rpm: low 12s to high 11s. This is all on your main jets. Once the mains are set, then: - WOT, hard acceleration 5500 and up: low 12s to high 11s. This is where you set your air correctors. A larger air corrector leans the mix. I rough set my idle jets and idle mix so it is ok. Then I dial in the mains. Next the air correctors. Finally I go back and fine tune the idle jets. Time spent here can find valuable fuel efficency. Side draft carbs can have a seemingly infinite variety of jets, chokes and nozzles but really you find the recommended settings and are just using the AFR to fine tune things for your local climate and driving style. Downdraft carbs are easier and harder in equal measure. Easier because there just isn’t as many options available, and harder, you guessed it, because there aren’t as many options available. You’ll have to compromise as you can’t nail it like you can with a sidedraft. Just remember, always err on the RICH side, never lean! Just one more thing, carbs transition from idle to progression to mains. It all blurs from one to the other. In those transitions, you can get fleeting lean spots. Watch carefully for them as we commonly drive with the engine in those transition zones. Lean = heat = burnt valves and holed pistons. While you certainly will toast an engine quickly being lean at WOT, you can do it just as well being lean at part throttle. Just takes longer."

First time I put my slider seats in I needed someone on top and me on bottom for the inside bolts. When I took them out I had this This gave me the reach to get to both myself.

Cat's are better