IamScotticus

That's the first flames for a 7 I've ever seen.

I would call it a Lotus 7 replica, unless it is a real Lotus 7. Everything else is a replica, even a Caterham. There's no point in going down the Chapman-Nearn transfer, that is more history than your listener cares about and the conversation gets lost in the weeds. Lotus is a recognizable brand, Caterham isn't. Lotus 7 or replica is simple, direct and accurate. Like the car.

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Oh, nooooo. How sad.

I'm wondering if you have a spec from a build sheet or you have made a physical measurement? I will side with @theDreamer on this one@theDreamer

Me to. Black plastic bowls if there is such a thing. I want to paint. Lucas style. Tip: the buggy market has a lot of these. EMPI is a source.

Tim, what it your information that you "have it as"?

I believe most S2 were hydraulic clutch. Do those require a preload spring?

Nice spec. I think the full wind screen, although looks proper on the car, is more trouble over 50mph than it's worth. The mini screen on there should be effective over 40mph. In that car, I think I would opt for a matching 3/4 helmet with half face shield. You would look perfect. Wind, buffeting, coms, safety, music, etc., would all be taken care of with a helmet. You may have to remove the head resets for helmet use. But, yes a black frame screen will finish off the car nicely. Put a WTB for one on the parts for sale to see if anyone bites. Check previous posts as well.

Look, man. These cars are hand fit. Get your drive line set up, engine and everything attached sitting on blocks, rear axle and wheels at loaded ride height, trans mount, whatever, and mock up engine mounts last with PVC pipe and base board. Take the PVC to your welder and fab them.

If you can throw in some fish & chips we may have a deal

@Vovchandr is right. I want to be added to the list.

Alan, To follow up, did you get a nose from Wava Utt? Repair it? How did all that turn out? Scott

Alan, They were all S3s in 92. What engine do you have? @fotsyrChris, are you still at it? Assuming it's a Xflow, I have an old harness and I would suggest getting a new dizzy from 123 Distributors. Do you need a bonnet?

BF 15% off now

I got a rock

Aren't there stabilization kits available?

The long shaft 5 spd T-9s are from the V6 Sierras. I believe the majority of T-9 Cats were these. They require a 1" aluminum spacer and a bit taken off the tip, maybe 1/4", 2.0 Pinto BH, fork and release bearing. You can use the 1.6 Kent release bearing with a reduced diamter T-9 front cover/shaft sleeve from Burtons. Also use curly spring spine clutch covers with flat faced release bearings. Also for a Pinto to Xflow (2.0/1.6) T-9 conversion, you use a special clutch disc that is a 190mm (7.5") 1"x23 spline disc. Make sure the correct side is facing the FW. Ensure the top front edge of the T-9 is well sealed from water ingress. Use a light smear of grease on the clutch shaft splines that is specifically for clutch. One from Sachs. Tighten BH bolts equally. Strap the clutch cable to the fork with zip tie. Lots more unwanted advice is available, just PM me. I'm not sure, but I think the 4 spd T-9s with short shafts bolt directly on to a Kent with Pinto BH. The shifter position will require a remote linkage, like Cat used on the Escort boxes.

A clutch that sits too long can fuse together. I have heard of various techniques to break it in situ, but I don't recommend any. If the car has sat so long, there are probably plenty of other issues to sort out. Oil seals, clutch surfacing, etc.

The UK blokes really like the Uniroyal Rain Experts, it's definitely a favourite among the street crowd. I would recommend it but I haven't found it available in the USA. Maybe I haven’t looked enough. But, my point is, a rain tyre can do very well on a 7. 1,200 pounds, the majority of rubber is way overengineered for a 7. I wouldn't hesitate to buy the cheapest light rated tire and try to wear through them. On a side note, the height of the tyre carrier center fastener bung will be set for the Caterham reccomend size tyre and wheel combination. Measure from the bracket to the hole, double that and try to stay within a half inch of that diameter. If it matters to you.

1+2+3+4= a $400 shoe I would say, hold off on the $$$$ shoe until you are sure that is what you need. I also noticed neither of the proposed shoes were fire retardant. If you were going that way, get safety shoes.

Wrestling shoes. https://a.co/d/bgb4xX9 Or this https://a.co/d/i3WEQPF https://a.co/d/2GPoHfC I think you're looking at $300+ shoes that aren't going to help you with technique any better than more reasonable options. At 8.5, you are already on the smaller side. Any of these slim shoes will do. The wrestling shoe can skip some lace holes. There are Goodyear race sneaker shoes with more support than an athletic mat shoe. I don't think the licensed race team marketing is worth the price.

Truth. In regions that don't freeze frequently, people aren't prepared or accustomed to freezing. Building codes, road conditioning, basic survival prep. All go to crap during any freeze that lasts more than a few days. Nature never fails to surprise us. We never fail to be surprised.

How old are these plugs? I don't think reusing a core plug is a good idea. Do you think the others will stay in place? I suspect there is something amiss about the installation or the plugs, or the seal had sucom to corrosion, and it would be the same outcome for all eventually. I'm not in the brass camp. I think surface prep and proper installation is key regardless the material. Tim, this isn't your fault, but I wouldn't trust core plugs past 20 years. Most cars don't last 20 years, so it's not common to see them fail.

I find it ironic that the prez will release the files on national toilet day