IamScotticus

Yes, the elimination of the brackets' ears for clutch cable clearance is another reason some may want a complete one, for hydraulic conversions.

This bracket will be sought after for Lotus and early Caterham restorations. It is becoming more scarce as the cottage businesses reproducing them, eventually fade away. The point of this thread is to document what information we can on it.

Google came up with this for Mk1 Cortina

From Vin's car: This pedal bracket/mount is an English Ford part, commonly known to be from the 100E series. Possibly a Prefect or Popular. Several styles were based on the 100E. I am having difficulty narrowing down the exact Ford cars in which this bracket was used. Any help out there? Currently, GMT Racing, sells reproductions of these. I have one coming in soon.

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/blog/how-to-charge-an-agm-battery#

Oh poor thing! Just build a whole chassis ground up.

Donna Mae might be letting go of her '58 https://www.facebook.com/groups/887632191373331/permalink/3320665981403261/

A Lotus S2/3 nose is 25" from the front top edge to the rear step, in front of the bonnet edge. Add 2" of shelf under the bonnet, where the Dzus fasteners are. The Caterham is 2" shorter from the rear edge forward. If you placed a Lotus nose on a Caterham, you will find the wing (for flared) clamps are in the same place, the sway bar will need removed, and the rear edge is about 1" wider than the chassis. For the width diff, I would not attempt to fit a Lotus nose on a Caterham chassis. Also, the Lotus nose height is about an inch lower. A new bonnet will need to be made to correct length and height. I can't answer the scuttle width for certain as I don't have a S2, but I doubt there has been any change on that. I measured 36 inches on my 1995 S3. If I can help with any more questions, PM me.

The most exported junk/salvage car for parts, reassembly and resale is the Toyota Camry. Nothing else comes close.

A handy 240v outlet when you need one. Nice

The main reason I suggest a SV (I don't have one) is you had stated that there is an interest in the riding comfort of an afore mentioned " Missus": "if I can squeeze in, I'll do it, I can live with that, as will my missus have to" So, have you ever had to sit in an airline seat with a guys shoulder in your cheek for hours? Yea. That's an S3. IF you want a happy Missus, SV! The S3 can be your doghouse car, the car you put on- you wear it. It's intimate, lts all you.

its an Artificial Intelligence generated image. they're always fun. this was created with the description "Lotus 7 Christmas tree on snow" and this I suppose the more detailed description you give the generator, the more concise image you can generate. Tis generator I used doesn't ID Caterhams or Lotus 7s very well. But this is AI. I hope it doesn't get too smart.

Go SV. Don't be so focused on the track performance. Get a 7 you can enjoy tooling around in. Comfortably. That will be your keeper. Super 7 2000 Here's your car: https://caterhamcars.com/us/models/the-range/super-seven-2000?view=article&id=56%3Aconfigurator&catid=9&configuration=%2BBOOPITV%2BBPTPCBL%2BBST%2BCLB%2BCTS%2BDSHPDSS%2BE00%2BFST%2BFWG%2BGS5%2BHHL%2BHTR%2BIC7PP7I%2BINSPINM%2BINTPINCINRPINC%2BISB%2BITTPITV%2BKBT%2BLPO%2BLRSPBLK%2BMCP%2BMINCAOPDCUCAIPSLV%2BN7R%2BNAP%2BNBS%2BNDR%2BNGG%2BNRM%2BNSD%2BNTK%2BPIPPBLK%2BPNBPFYS%2BRAB%2BRBCPGBS%2BS2K%2BSGA%2BSIGCHASSIS%2BSIGHEADLIGHTBOWL%2BSML%2BSRB%2BSRD%2BSTU%2BSWL%2BSZV%2BWLW%2BWST I didn't see a LHD option. LSD is nice if you can pay for it. Lowered floors is a personal choice but I would not choose it if you don't need it.

Another thing, if the seats you want have steel mount rails, they should have steps that fit within the frame. Should measure that too. I found out that a squab seat bottom from my car didn't fit a 1985!

It not unusual for there to be variances in tunnel widths. My 1996 Classic Crossflow long cockpit chassis measures 16" for seat width between side panel and carpeted tunnel. Odd, I always thought it was 15 inches. I guess it grew around the waist.

Here is a nifty tool for the Triumph hubs, a hum puller/extractor available from Rimmer Bros. The concept is to apply enough pull for the hub to separate after wacking the hub, something fairly elementary when dealing with tapered connections. It was this or a hydraulic press. This is portable. Staged for demonstration Caution must be taken to not warp the hub.

@Christopher smithSir, don't apologize for anything! You are an official subject matter guru! I'm taking notes!

Yes, I generally wish to avoid all methylene chloride products. The alternative strippers, according to what I can glean from the Tube demonstrations, appear to be a much lower odor and toxicity and work well. This is important because I will be working in a shack attatched to the residence in which contains a very sensitive odor alarm that will scream at the first offending scent. My other concern is reactivity with Bondo. I don't want any existing fillers to dissolve.

Thanks, good to know. I did buy a small quantity of Coopers taking advantage of free shipping and a bonus 50% more striper (don't ask). The reason I did was to see about the specialty rinse. It has waterless anti-rust properties I am looking for in a non- petroleum dry coating as an alternative to WD-40. One takeaway from my stripper research is the old standard Aircraft Remover had been neutered by the EPA, removing the nice toxic stuff that made it so crinkly good. If you still have any of the old formula, conserve it.

Yes, as exciting as watching paint dry. But for today, I am interested in removing paint off 60's Lotus plastic without damaging the original gelcoat. No, I'm not going restore the gelcoat, I just need to get repairs done. I have been searching for a safe stripper, if there is such a thing, and found Cooper's Strip Club Paint and Varnish stripper and rinse kit out of Kiwi land. https://coopersstripclub.com/marine-lpp1/ Can anyone vouch for this product? Or recommend another one?

I like letting letting Rocky Mountin help you move it. They can host it on their site. You can list it here for RM. Didn't RM help you get the 7? Dance with the one who brought you. Let Josh or Bruce flip it. Timing? Forget all that. $45k knows no seasons. Someone who can drop that on a toy isn't a seasonal impulse buyer. They're likely looking all year for the "one", or a seller looking to flip it. I suggest picking an agent and all advertising you do, Hemmings, etc, lead to that person. Let a 7 expert handle your showing, negotiation, sale and delivery. It is very possible the buyer will be exporting. You don't want to handle all that yourself. I'll keep talking. I think there are too many of these later Cats up for sale. This is a one-percenter car, a niche fan base. Your target clientele has many options, like other 7 copies, Slings and autocycles. In a country that puts 5" tall speed bumps in the roads. Tiny cars are a tough sell and the 7 being the most fragile of them all, you have to already be a fan to even consider a 7. Its not a rational choice. I have heard that Cat is aiming at increasing north America sales. Wait too long to sell this and you won't get your price. BaT? Our friend in Hawaii's BaT buyer backed out on him. Apparently BaT selling has its own share of shenanigans to deal with.

Can this tap be used for DS extraction?

Amazon Marketplace If they allow cars. IDK Find the Porsche guys with Gulf cars. They may need another one.

Looks like a sump pan that can be used for a dry sump. You obviously have a wet sump pickup tube in there. Anyway, if you have a finger filter, take it out and inspect it. It is a maintenance item too. It could be keeping gunk from leaving the sump when you drain. It's porpoise 🐬 is to protect the scavenge pump, if you had one. You may also have an O ring behind that blue head needing replacement. Consider a using a Dowdy seal that fits. Pegasus is good for those. Nope, definitely not a DS Nothing wrong with wet sump, a lot of potential problems will never occur. Very solid and reliable.

GT40 grommet covers will fix that. Trying to find it for squab builds