IamScotticus

More true for the diff oil. New engines are built like sewing machines now, not as much break-in as the old days. The diff deserves more attention and has a more restrictive break-in.

Wrong charger for battery and not a smart charger. I know, I destroyed bats using dumb high voltage trickle charging.

@Timothy Keith-Lucaslets talk about on PM or phone so we don't hijack this thread.

Check your coolant. You likely will be filling some air pockets as you drive, especially during the harder throttling. If you have a heater plumber in, keep it on hot some time to allow the coolant to circulate through the heater and purge more air. Your coolant reservoir should be only half full at any time. This is the thing to watch now.

Still a lot of questions here. If Mudder puts in a logging AFR, it only shows his O2s based on what? An AFR meter doesn't know what test of fuel, altitude, compression ratio, blah blah blah...Murder needs to know what his ideal AFR should be based on his variables first, and it may not be the perfect stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1. So Mud needs to determine his Stoich point before an AFR is useful. hey, I say if you're blowing smoke, that's good

The OEM mechanical fuel pump does a good job of self regulating but can induce surges with throttle. There is a Solex pressure stabilizer available for this. https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/b26570.htm

Heh, just kidding, sort of. My contributions, FWIW... Tightening hose clamps... Headed for trouble. Tightening these often leads to more problems because the ideal clamps are spring types that apply a constant clamping force while allowing the materials to expand and contract with temperatures and don't squish the juices out of the rubber. Rubber isn't a fruit, but if you think of it as something soft that can dry out and become brittle, like a banana peel, you can understand. Get a pressure tester and try to find a leak. The guage will show a leak down. You don't always get a puddle on the ground. Watch your coolant expansion tank levels. Always suspect a bad tank cap as a culprit as these are cheap plastic parts and prone to fail. Be careful around the plastic nipples and barbs as they break and consider the hose routing. Secure hoses from bouncing around and rubbing on other things. This is not a car. It's an airplane on wheels. There is no set it and forget it. Everything can vibrate loose. Everything must be buttoned up, not too tight, and rechecked with use. Tightening fasteners tighter is not the way. Using techniques to prevent walk-out is. Lock washers, safety wire, tabs, and thread lock liquids should be used instead wrenching tighter on a fastener. Don't tell anyone, but you have a race car. Think like a pit crew. Carroll Smith book here is good info. https://www.carrollsmith.com/books/nutsbolts.html

Wolfman, It's a 1960s engine. It's a dirty engine and it likes it that way. I saw something on the FB Webber group, take it with caution... Someone had DCOE carb spitting and solved it by drilling a hole in the back cover plate. Don't know why it works. Two kinds of meters Air/Fuel Ratio meter- gives actual O2 readings. Need to know what to expect for your fuel type, altitude, etc. Wide band O2 / Lambda? A system that shows you the perfect AF reference point (stoich) and where the current AFR is in relation to that point. I don't know how the system knows the Stoic point for any engine, but it makes tuning more simplified. There are portable systems to stick in the pipe. I believe the Innovative LM1 was such a tool. @jbcollier uses one. JB gave really good advice a while back: "Get a O2 sensor bung welded into the exhaust right after all the pipes come together but before the muffler. Then buy an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge with a wide-band 02 sensor. I haven’t bought one in a while so I can’t give you any current advice there. I use an Innovate LM1 which is out of production now. I’m sure someone will chime in with more current recommendations. There are bluetooth gauges you can run off your phone. No need for a dash gauge. You’re going to dial in your carb and then unplug everything so no need for anything fancy, just functional. Warm up the car thoroughly. Then fit the O2 sensor and hook up your gauge per its instructions. Now go for a drive. Here are the critical modes to test: - part throttle, low rpm, steady state, between 25 and 35: in other words just moseying along. - part throttle, steady state around 50. - part throttle, steady state at hwy speeds In all these cases you want mid to low 13s. Anything exceeding 14 is too lean. This is mostly adjusted using the idle jets - medium acceleration from a rest to 35: low 13s to high 12s. Watch for faltering and lean/flat spots which may indicate too small an accel jet. - WOT, hard acceleration 3000 to 5000 rpm: low 12s to high 11s. This is all on your main jets. Once the mains are set, then: - WOT, hard acceleration 5500 and up: low 12s to high 11s. This is where you set your air correctors. A larger air corrector leans the mix. I rough set my idle jets and idle mix so it is ok. Then I dial in the mains. Next the air correctors. Finally I go back and fine tune the idle jets. Time spent here can find valuable fuel efficency. Side draft carbs can have a seemingly infinite variety of jets, chokes and nozzles but really you find the recommended settings and are just using the AFR to fine tune things for your local climate and driving style. Downdraft carbs are easier and harder in equal measure. Easier because there just isn’t as many options available, and harder, you guessed it, because there aren’t as many options available. You’ll have to compromise as you can’t nail it like you can with a sidedraft. Just remember, always err on the RICH side, never lean! Just one more thing, carbs transition from idle to progression to mains. It all blurs from one to the other. In those transitions, you can get fleeting lean spots. Watch carefully for them as we commonly drive with the engine in those transition zones. Lean = heat = burnt valves and holed pistons. While you certainly will toast an engine quickly being lean at WOT, you can do it just as well being lean at part throttle. Just takes longer."

First time I put my slider seats in I needed someone on top and me on bottom for the inside bolts. When I took them out I had this This gave me the reach to get to both myself.

Cat's are better

OEM application is models of cars used on. They are likely to be a continuation from an older small car. I sent a PM.

Does anyone know the OEM application for those sliders?

Hey, your wings can match the seats

It looks like bringing the pedals back may require a shorter brake piston pusher rod. You can find replacement lengths on Pegasus Racing. Also, occasionally disconnect the clutch cable there to unwind it if it's twisted. Always drive with a spare cable and be able to change it at the worst possible time and place. Expect a new cable to stretch out. Love the cable. You won't have the problems that come with hydraulics.

I saw strong healthy people get severely ill or die from covid. I saw one spouse get sick and the orher not. Do what you can to reduce your exposure and harden your immune system. Stay healthy and don't smoke. Do what you can to be strong enough to fight off infection. Everything after that is luck, fate, etc. The next virus to come around will require a different formula of immunity. If over 50 or high risk, the best thing to do is leave the population.

This? https://uberniche.co.uk/mirror-mounts.html

I am noticing there are no headlines reporting Chinese (let's be polite) activities in the South sea and Taiwan. I doubt China is standing down. It's a tinderbox not making headlines since January.

Add more blinker fluid. Sorry

The cam # should be stamped on the end of the shaft. Will need to remove the sprocket to see it, I believe. Perrysdad should have a GT cam. But as it goes with these 7s, few can resist the urge to put in a cam. So, no, we can't assume anything here. But surely, there must be a general running gap he can use, no?

From the Caterham Pink manual

@pickles This can't be right. Glue? Mirrors usually have socket cups to attach to the housing. This is a hack job. What glue was used? Often, the quality and technique of the surface prep is the determining factor for any glue to work. Try this. Get a roll of adhesive backed Velcro and a block of foam. Cut the foam to be a pedestal to attach the mirror to and to the middle of the housing. Velcro front an back of foam block.

@Timothy Keith-Lucas If you would like a test mule to do the reverse wiring hacks on, you can have this one: Its 80mm. I DO NOT know if it works.

The majority of 7 improvements from late S2 on can be attributed to Grahm Nearn and Co. The Improvements were implemented from Caterham suggestions. Most notably the fitting of the Twin Cam. Chapman knew he had to go upmarket and the 7 wasn't that direction. 7 sales could not sustain Lotus. When the 7 cut into Elan and Europa sales, Chapman was keen to unload the 7. I'm not claiming Chapman didn't have an affection for the 7, he did. I think it represents the affordable sport motoring market Lotus aimed to serve. But 7 sales couldn't sustain Lotus. Not with Jimmy Clark winning races. Lotus and Ford could sell more Cortinas. Did Lotus fail to adequately market the 7? Possibly. The 7 was a short term program that has lasted almost 70 years. The wife was right.

Even if you stop finding leaks, before putting it back in the car and reassembling, you must do a full pressure test. Get a long pressure hose to connect to the MC and bleed. Then the slave in a vice or something to capture the piston and pressurize the slave outside of the bell housing.

@MRH Lookie here https://www.ebay.com/itm/374927424164