IamScotticus

I have seen it. I joined for a year to be able to petition and WTB there. No luck.

Done. Waiting for a response. I even gave Bearing Kits as an example. This discussion isn't new, I have brought it up before. Then, it was revealed that another reason for the avoidance is the frequency of "non delivery" and lost goods, and CC transactions being canceled. Apparently it's a thing here. AND, since Rally Design appears to be the JC Whitney of UK, I can see how they would have that problem. RD probably eats more than thier share of loss.

If I were to fab this, after the skills, tools and materials, I'm way over the purchase cost of this item, four times over. This thing, is, a gamble. I haven't found much written about it. Nor do I see them being sold off or replaced with something better. I assume most 7ers just leave the shift where it lies, enjoying the snappy flick, I know, I've driven a T9 Cat. I could accept that for myself, it would be much easier. But, there is a correct placement location for a shifter. I will try to have it on my car, as well as I can.

Thanks, but the problem is The retailer will not SELL to a USA customer. My MAC address gives me away and they filter any VPN. I could contact them about it. I believe I already had, years ago. It's the lawyers, they said.

Take the shifter knob too. Nothing is safe.

Could anyone help get me one to these states? Im not broke, I can pay for it. RDLtd will not sell here. https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=13487 Image from above link

For road driving, the 13s were the favorite..

Wrong wheel size please don't donk your 7

There's a Group buy agreement between L7C and Caterham offering the LED package at a £100 discount. Window closes Nov 14. No idea if exports will avoid VAT. Still more than I want to spend, but I do like the lighter plastic bases opposed to the heavy rubber older ones. I can probably find someone with a printer to make them. Sorry, no link, to avoid poking the etiquette bear. PM me if you like

I consider the QD wheel as more of a theft deterrant.

2025 to be the year I get my arse in gear and get that 7 going. Right. First on my list is to take my Kent lump to an engine man and throw money at him. No. I must pull up my grease-less sleeves and do it myself. It is a very simple engine after all. Therefore, we must begin with some planning. Plan one is how to properly clean this lump. It's not all that dirty. A coat of greasy dirt is good. it's just sat for 13 years with a nice DexCool sludge to Gunk it up. This coolant jacket needs an enema and I don't really trust a common radiator flush. Not for this. I have done my time. Some have served in the military scrubbing floors with toothbrushes; I washed pot and and pans (and knives) at restaurants. I know the three compartment sink well. I believe that with three, more or less, plastic utility sinks and the right processes, and an air compressor, I can have a system down that gives me a lump ready for hole chasing, deck work and paint with a good chance I don't screw it up. Soft techniques only. Crazy idea #1: The death by electrocution. If you haven't seen this one, you haven't been on YouTube. Tub of water, add baking soda, add metal plate, connect battery charger, sizzle for a day, and the electrolysis will do its magic. Crazy idea #2: The meth lab. Metal container, water, add degreaser, put on a propane burner, scrub a little, talk to the police after the door, and hoist out a squeaky clean lump. The aluminum parts really like this one. Crazy idea #3: The pickling. A few good rust and scale removers to choose from. Evaporust, CLR, plain vinegar, thay all work. Add a water pump for circulation and even better, a filter system. Crazy idea #4: Ok, it's not a crazy, but it is the thing that is keeping me from moving forward with any cleaning method, preventing the flash rust. I could do a thorough rinse of WD40 or other anti corrosion solution. But I want something that will dry to handle, won't run or evaporate off, and is easily removed for paint and assembly. Maybe WD40 is that. Well, my goal will be to have a short time from bath to plugs in to paint to assembly. All in the comfort of knowing that some klutz at a machine shop won't have his clueless hands on it. Not to offend, I didn't say "careless", I said "clueless" because engine shop man probably won't know what trouble he will have to go through to replace a Kent engine if he damaged it. And, I would have him guarantee a replacement. No, I can't just pluck one from a Pinto or Bobcat. Not the same. To be continued...

Welcome Anthony. For anyone interested, Anthony knows his way around the BDR well, having built his own. Friendly fellow, Im thankful for his membership here.

I'm actually getting away from the 90° elbow, rear fill, and going to a vertical riser below the boot cover. Looking for options on how to do this. A riser with a basic metal cap is sufficient. Tank filler neck is 2.25" OD. Need a 8" tall riser. I have a length of fuel hose I can use, but it's very heavy and I don't want the stress on the neck. Thinner, lighter metal pipe is better. Yea, it's a hijack, hope OP doesn't mind.

If I knew the answer I would say, but Im not sure myself. But its not hard to find out. I can't imagine these being any different that what has been used on the Lotuses and Cats, being taken from an older Leyland or Rover group vehicle. The wiper assembly is one of the things that hasn't changed much over the years. Weale states, "those resembling the Mini". The notes I have are: Blades: Moss # 164-640 Golden Gate lists the S2 motor as Lucas DR3A 75801. https://gglotus.org/ggpart/sevenxref.htm Old Cat patrt #s, which are often generic OEM: Motor 74> 60027020 Wiper arm RHD 74> 120460SEFB Wiper arm LHD 74> TWA14 Wiper blades 74> 205415SEHE Wiper blades Bosh sprung 90035685 Wiper wheel box 74> 72872 Wiper ferrule 74> 54704623 Lotus/ Cat owners manual reprint: Wiper blade: 8413 Wiper arm: 7862 Wheelbox: 7858 Wiper motor: 7301 (Probably Lotus #s) These part numbers may help lead you to the OEM vehicle.

@Andy69 which oil will you be using for the trunnions?

Therein lies the space between "what I think" and "what they think" and "what I want them to think". Anyone who has served in the Army knows "there is a right way, a wrong way and the Army way". Of course, we want our car candy to pass the scrutinizing, ours and theirs. But fact is, the ogling admirer rarely knows the particulars of 7 details. They just want to know if its fast and if it's a kit car? Then you pull out the vomit bag you acquired from the last airline. But, even the uninitiated can discern between something that is half done and something finished. For this reason, my vote goes to the full cut-out . If the gap needs filled, get a wider filter. Or just let the curious peek. If they're looking, theyre interested, you have a friend.

Why is a dashboard called a dashboard? On an aircraft its an instrument panel.

I got this one. I can find so many errors, I made my own slap game. S2 tach on the passenger side? C'mon Rees, you know better. Where I completely lost it was the abysmal photos for the GT downdraught 7s. The bulge! The GT, and the 67-69 S3, and the S4, have that singular feature that sets them apart from almost all other 7s ever made, a bonnet bulge or scoop. Rees couldn't find a decent picture? Yes, I admit they're scarce. But, geez. Here, I'll give one: I know, it has a Lotus badge. They just can't resist.

Any progress?

Can do with a pressure bleeder.

might find them here? https://jacobengineering.co.uk/index.php/brabham-2/badges/ https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/exterior-bodywork/lotus-badges-emblems/ https://shop.classicteamlotus.co.uk/lotus-nose-badges-1057-p.asp https://www.tonythompsonracing.co.uk/parts/body-and-chassis/early-lotus-nose-badge-correct-period/#

I suppose I could use a magnet to find out, but would my 90s Cat have come with epoxy coated steel lines? Should these all be replaced with something else? Please excuse the hijack.

Which system, AN or standard 45°, is least likely to loosen and shake apart?

This car's clams are cut way back. One shouldn't be able to see the tops of the tyres or the bracket from this angle with full clams.

A nice blat