IamScotticus

OK, that's better. The writing does not state that they come attached. Did you have any problems pulling the upper shaft out?

Meteor have a weld-on chrome moly plug. A very nice QR. But I am wanting a direct bolt-on to the Caterham splined shaft.

I won't bother unless it's a Chronometric.

Could someone ID this Smiths? Is it worth a restoration service?

Piggybacking here. Who has the best QD that bolts up to the standard Cat steering column, that is a small hub for a 3 spoke Nardi type wheel? I've decided the Mountney is too small and heavy.

I suppose the difficulty level will vary by experience levels and skills and abilities. The main reason I over-do is to prevent damage to the car, which I've already done. Tape and paper. You can get away with a lot of mistakes if your area is well protected. A good example is the framework. Put some towels or foam pipe insulation on those tubes when wrenching around them to avoid nicking the powder coat. Did I mention I hate powder coat?

Don't want any Emails. I refer only to the forum notifications.

Did that. The original mounting is perfect. Within 1/64 by the centreline on the bellhousing. I was amazed. The two mounts, the Right side original and DS mount, placed flat in the flanges, clearly show the DS is .25" short. I'll look for the PM. My notifications are strange. I don't get notifications for my own build thread.

But the non-schooled, non-degreed, no-experience engineer in me says that will stress the bolts because the plate is still loose, regardless of the tightening. It would be like spacing it out with washers.

I tried an install once by attaching the stanchions loosely to the scuttle first, but found managing the balance of the screen to be awkward. I didn't use the tape to support it then. If I were taller with enough reach to insert the top screen screws on both sides from one side of the car, while holding the screen upright with the other hand, I suppose it's doable. But I have little T-Rex arms.

Bolt pattern?

Where are ya? Still Cape Cod?

Formula 27? What happened to these guys? https://www.carandclassic.com/l/C1801806 Which Alpha lump is this?

Have a link for those seats? I may be looking into those. video 12:05..If you look at the basket frame behind the ali, there may be a bung welded in for the spare tyre bracket. The car may have been paneled over the bung with the intent to cut the hole after skinning. It's a small hole so pre cutting it is bad idea. I have an extra tyre bracket for 3.75 PCD if interested. AND lets see that dry sump system!

Happy to hear your success. Can we have a part number of that new alternator?

Today was very busy for old Beater. And me. Why do I choose a day to start Teardown, bag & tag, when I'm in a post surgical boot from toe surgery and had taken the truck to a shop for a coolant leak, taken to the rental car, declined the rental car for $50/day +ins. Uber home wirh a lesson about communist Vietnam (you can buy land and property but the government can take it away for any reason, but they pay you market value, etc. A scooter, a house and a Buffalo and you're good.) Then I realize I had better start wrenching. Today was windscreen, alternator, exhaust, and test fit the 5 port dry sump (DS) pump and the DS engine mount. The edge of the pump came within 1/4" of the mount, This will be expanded as l found the mount to be 1/4" too short necessitating a spacer between the mount and engine. I think I will have my welder buddy attach a plate to the back of the mount and drill the holes through. Then repaint. It's probably powdercoated. It will be fun watching the aircraft remover let me peel that off like hot taffy. I hate powder coat. But all that stuff was easy. The near disaster task was removing the wind screen (WS). This is near disaster territory because if not done well with the appropriate precautions, the scuttle, AND YOU, will have new artwork to live with. Every day like a brick on your face. With lessons learnt from the past, here is advice for the intrepid. Firstly, realize the WS assembly, when tightened down, is under tension. This is either design carelessness or English genius. Designed to take the buffeting and stresses of the wind at speed, the tension provides the rigidity to withstand it and not shake apart. This tension is good in its place, not good when trying to install or remove the WS as there are scuttle panel angles that will be in conflict with the stanchion angles. The WS assembly is twisted in the tightening process, providing the tension. The screw bases in the frame sides are soft metal, I believe, and prone to damage if tightened under tension, thread damage can occur. When assembling the WS and stanchions, you will notice that if you tighten the upper frame screws, (you should have attached the hinges first) the upper sides are perpendicular to the WS frame, then the lower stanchion triangles will not be parallel to the scuttle panels and the triangles will gouge the scuttle, should you try to set it on as such. I suppose it can be done with a friend on the other side to pull the triangle back and place the rubber strip correctly. But we are usually doing these things alone in our splendid isolation, perfectly at peace in our task, oblivious to the world. Until one of two things break the tranquility... the wife screeching over the dishes not being done, or the windscreen crashing down into the cockpit, scratching up the once pristine scuttle. Or both at the same time. This is why you should not have any cats anywhere near while you are working. Or wives. Anyway, I will suggest that the assembly and disassembly are similar in that three things are necessary: 1) masking tape and paper. Tape and paper the area to prevent scratches, especially under the stanchions, you can remove it before you tighten it down. 2) assemble loose. Do not tighten bolts until WS is in place. Upper frame first, lower triangle second. 3) wood pegs. No, not your nickname in High-school. wood rods to insert into the lower stanchion holes to keep the thing from falling over. These are easily inserted or removed with one hand while the other hand holds the screen. These, and tape across the top is your third hand. You need friends that do what they are supposed to do. Removal... This being a hand fitted car, the WS is perhaps the worst of it. Removing is easy. Put tape across the top to help hold it up and loosen the lower triangle bolts first, then loosen the upper six WS frame screws (because you had relieved the tension below), insert a dowl in a lower hole or it may be stable as is. Repeat evenly on both sides until stanchions are loose. Then place sheets of paper under the triangles so you can lift the assembly up without scratches. Hopefully. Assembly is very similar with the added complication of the rubber trim (RT). Problems.... Older kits used to come with Oval stanchion holes that allow for height adjustment and stanchions were bolted to the scuttle with fender washers inside. Then Caterham made the WS brackets that sit inside the scuttle, bolted to the frame rail. These give the WS added strength, but they don't allow adjustability should you find the WS not matching the curvature of the scuttle. This happens when WSs And scuttles from different eras are mixed. In my case, the later WS is so tight against my early scuttle, there is no room for the rubber strip. This was not expected last time I tried fitting the WS and I couldn't compress the WS and RT low enough to engage the stanchion bracket threads. I removed the RT and all lined up, but the WS sits on the scuttle, no gap. What I didn't try was any heat technique. I have since learned that the use of a heat gun to soften the RT till pliable is the technique. How to protect a painted scuttle when doing this? I don't know. I would test on a loose piece of RT to see what heat level it takes. If the hot setting of a common hair drier is sufficient, I doubt any additional paint protection is required, but may be necessary for a wrap. If a heat gun is used, perhaps the RT should be softened on the WS frame prior to placing on the scuttle. Alternatively, I can space the brackets higher. The scuttle holes will need extending. I think the combination of both will work nicely next time I fit the screen. I need a new alternator. Have a good day y'all.

I have one better. I had a Zetec engine and gave it away. And I'd do it again.

Can we have some new roadside pics in all your splendid yellowness?

OH, WOW! I have never seen this before! Brilliant!

Yes, I know they don't fit Caterhams, that's beside the point. Any colour or condition, except crushed.

your journey may be yellow, but it isn't little Im about to find out if I need your DS engine mount

I've always heard the effort isn't worth it, you don't get back to what you had. Better to finish a painting.

Not Wayne's choice. Previous owner started with a coat of primer, that garish lime green you see there. As well as BRG wing stays and tyre carrier. Poor thing.

RD said that another UK retailer like Burton or Bearing Kits can get the part and sell it to me. They also mentioned Racer Walsh as having a trade agreement. Racer Walsh has been in the Ford four banger game a long time. They're mostly 2ltr OHC support now. Exploring options among friends and retailers now. I have a growing grocery list for Burton anyway.