IamScotticus

I know the "nobody wrenches on my car but me" thing, lol. Those Vaccaro wings, or farings, were they sold as such or are these your own creation?

This is golden advice.

Standard Caterham key. This one is my Xflow key. No ECU. STARTER SWITCH Morris Minor Lowe & Fletcher SWH116X Nieman type BHA5215

It's a distributor; a component of non-computer controlled engines. Im just being cute. Ignore me. But if you wanted to put in an all mechanically timed engine, the Kent crossflow is still a viable engine with lots of parts support and 55 years of tuning knowledge available.

No PATS required Yes, im trolling ☠️

This is your niche! Get the market!

@Alex-Ks1 OK, so where's the 7 kit from you? lol

I would treat it like consulting an attorney before a starting a business selling roadkill meat pies, what could go wrong? Call a broker or a friend who knows the business and ask if you need a broker. If your import passses thrthe port and Customs swimmingly, great. If not, the time and storage fees can add up. I do know that Customs doesn't care about your storage fees and they may not answer to you at all.

Maybe in ten years EV components from complete cars will be cheap and available to cobble something together?

You definitely want a Customs Broker working for you. Not because you can't do it yourself, but because of the investment you have in this. The brokers know the importation language and are in regular communication with the inport specialists.

After attending few courses on throttle steer from YouTubiversity Im considering stepping down my sway bar from the 5/8(red bushes) it is now to a 1/2. Anyone want to swap out? I have the 90s uprated live axle suspension with balls on the bar.

Ship could still be moving but its signal delayed

I don't have a Zetec so I can't suggest an exact location. But Ive had a oil catch can/oil separator on my personal vehicle. These things can be condensation traps because they house or circulate hot air while a flow of cool air surrounds the can creating condensate in the can. I removed it when it was collecting more water than oil. Therefore I would try to avoid placing it in a direct air flow area like the frontal area. Further back like foot well mounted perhaps. Hope this helps.

For someone who has the chops to knock out a full car, thsts a fantastic experience and achievement. I believe a structurally superior chassis is much better than a 60-70 year old rust gamble. Steel is steel, no matter what name it has on it. For a guy without the skill sets to build, saving 5k/year for four years and buying a complete 7 is better for him. It may take four years to save the money, but a DIY project will likely drag on for ten. Then life often has other plans. Get into a driving 7 car as fast as possible and start enjoying driving a seven.

On the spaghetti models, I think the purple line is most likely.

@Alex-Ks1 Are you for a front mounted motor? mated to a transmission?

Thats probably a good thing

I think it's already here

Thess are awesome for radiator hose clamps

An elecrtic 7 would be stonking quick

Back to doors, Oxted Trimming has been the supplier to Cat of doors hoods, all the weather parts for decades. If anyone would know about a S2 pattern they should. The storefront goes by a different name: https://www.thundersport.co.uk/products/

This is golden

if all else fails throw a Kent 1600 in it. No ECU needed. Engine mounts be same location, transmission should bolt up. I had a Ztec, I gave it away. it probably went into someones Brinkin.

I have chosen to go the four port oil pump route on my dry sump build. This requires that the pressure line be tapped into the oil galley. Not scary at all, this has been a regular thing on BMC A engines for some time, in fact they come with an oil port (5/8-16) for such purposes. So why not follow suit on the Kent block? I had the option of machine thread or NPT fir the fitting. Asking around, the NPT is a common practice but could crack the block if overtightened. I decided on the 5/8-18 with a sealing washer. A quick internet search dug up a AN 10 to 5/8-16 adapter that looks like the item I need. I want to show it off here and ask if anyone knows rhe stamp marks to identify the manufacturer. I will try to mate this with a female hose end of the same manufacturer. AN is supposed to be universal and consistent, but good practice is to join with same make. Thanks to Mini Mania for this awesome part!