7Westfield

Tom If you decide to do it, I'll give you our builder's number in CO he can fix you up with one and the proper coil Ed he says he's never seen a side entry cap. and he used to rebuild a lot of them, until parts dried up

caution...don't order a dist cap for a Fiesta they are different from a Pinto

hopefully you mean just without the vacuum parts---don't eliminate the mech advance that's what mine is---mech only I think there was a side entry cap I will ask our builder a good set of stock points should be fine Accel is prob overkill for most of us I occasionally think of changing mine to electronic, just putting in a Ford pickup, and using either a Ford box or GM HEI OTOH it ain't broke, so.....

First of all, FF does not require "points only" the rule is--no amplifier units, so the (crappy) Pertronix and similar are fine, as long as they are a trigger only The 123 units are not scca legal because they store 2 maps, which can be swapped electronically. That said, RMVR has allowed them, as long as the trigger wire is exposed and not connected they are wonderful I have a Ford unit in the westy, with a set of the Accel HD points and mech only advance Don't put a pertronix on a xflow--they WILL fail not if, just when our engine guy has had at least 2 fail on the dyno, right out of the box Ford parts are Motorcraft--not Mopar LOL DO NOT eliminate the advance for a street car you will have starting and drivability issues We keep it in FF for starting and good idle, but we set the timing at 3500-4000 rpm most seem to end up at 37-38 degrees @ that rpm Bosch dist with points in the FF for us I've not had issues switching between points and electronic units--I think most tachs are smart enough I spent the weekend at RA helping a friend with his Elva. They were chasing a misfire when I got there, and we swapped everything multiple times --finally traced it to an intermittent coil-- no tach issues just be sure you have the correct impedance coil for your trigger unit

My Westy has a dongle from a BT under the hood, attached to the fuse box. This winter, I'll probably move it under the dash. I also run the BT, or whatever it is, thru a timer, so it only runs a couple of hours a day too many reports of those things cooking a bat, or starting fires

the glass shop should have your answer I wouldn;t be surprised if it's just a good silicon caulk

given straightcut's hint--try minimania.com they don't show a pos ground unit on the website, but maybe they can find one

Just to be sure.....you are NOT using DOT 5 fluid?

it won't be a problem as long as the engine/trans is still level issue is when you tilt the front of the assembly up to clear at the front that yoke is probably about 4" long if you have a drain plug in the trans, just drain it before you lift no drain plug? have a pan ready amazing how far a quart of oil can spread on the floor

yes drain trans first, or you will have a big puddle when you tip the front up

If I was going to make a tubular arm, I'd look at making the tube full length, with a tie rod end as the outer joint. Put a loop above or below the tube to accept the sway bar bushings Would need to replace as a pair to avoid twist in the sway bar Not a visual match, but should work fine

Aren't the shock bodies threaded?

Prescription tinted safety glasses for daytime I have a pair with a nice foam seal around the outer edge If out at night-rarely- just my regular glasses and for a hat....I took an UnderArmor cap and cut the bill off, to make a "beanie" only thing I've found that stays on above 50 mph

just my 2 cents on pressure.... I run 205/60-13 toyo 888's 22 front, 18 rear street and autocross several years ago, I was at a track day--guy with a Cat was having issues, car just wouldn't behave he was running 30+ psi I said drop 10 and try again transformed it

before you do, check into whether the reversed polarity on the signal wire will be a problem hate to have the smoke leak out...

OR do the conversion to neg ground just re-polarize the generator switch the coil wires starter doesn't care only issue might be the fuel gauge, if you have one

the older tach's usually ground thru the case, instead of a separate wire, so you would need to insulate the case from the dash not easy to do there used to be places that would convert a tach for you, but I think most of them are gone, and it wasn't cheap I think Nisonger was one, but they are out of the repair business there are 2 types of smith connections--earlier ones used a loop of the lead from switch to coil going thru a plastic clip on the back to generate a signal. you had to have the loop going the "right" way for it to work later ones had 2 push on connectors for the wire and the loop was internal your ideal solution is a tach from a later MGB, if you can find someone to convert it you might try a place in Albuquerque I think it's called Albuquerque Speedometer I first dealt with them in the 80's I was going thru town in my Corvair and the speedo crapped---he fixed me that day BUT I tried to get something done a few years ago, and both price and time were ridiculous YMMV call Moss--maybe they know a guy, who knows a guy....

FWIW Bugeyes were mechanical, driven from the generator I don't recall when they went electric

rather be lucky than good....... and to your original question, I wouldn't expect your switch to be solid state, but no way to tell other than testing and seeing if smoke leaks out, unless there's a wiring diagram

pretty sure this is what I have in mine, but located in the lower hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/293373075512?fits=Model%3ARabbit|Make%3AVolkswagen&_skw=vw+rabbit+fan+switch&itmmeta=01K1B3VN1QQ9KXPYSCRJNEQ3HD&hash=item444e65e038:g:dHkAAOSwiM9hs4O7&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eHKR55QZV7SCaaiLBrhSXYN05cOR7IsoQyc%2Bj7Z9Qe%2B8Dn89sioAAluuRQ66bxF1EIxpJVG5bcDFDG2xUbZTauSDyAZZEoCslN5xcaCU9Ablrv%2FpVbMMkS24EFzERpzet8gcksXDZIi2N9hDDFmJe1ZMgR3HzC5jfGEkCDry4HEwxsxKfyGz6TEIVOzIzPhefdf7XZeo74Ms9efKJ7KmFfDr111--Dnzwf8LFAnMvI4LIzS9TEjql1T6rvt%2FMpu4eAvU5hxeQG5FRtDnjdW31Xyy3RQ%2B9Z9wfwWLrf0ro7Qg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMhtHu44pm Burton still has a couple of options, if you are ordering from them

OTOH I've done a couple of FF racks, and just used a good synthetic gen purpose grease

some sort of boot cover?

Don't use DOT 5 in these old systems, it does not have the proper additives. It will go right past the seals. Been there---done that Dot 4 is plenty good it's what I use in everything, even the formula ford if you REALLY want a silicone base try DOT 5.1 If you have Spit calipers -14LF- don't forget to order the seal that goes between the body halves, it doesn't come in the kit Lots of folks say NEVER split a 14LF, but I usually do just for access. Just don't reuse the old seal Girling kits from Pegasus I don't know what Moss sells If you have the Escort axle, you may be able to use Spitfire wheel cylinders, just match bore size that's what I did on mine, but it's a Cortina axle

Given that they just add another crotch strap, I would say no.

use the VR1 it has the zinc AFAIK the issue with older engines is down to the cam and tappets, The zinc reduces friction where the lifter "wipes" the cam. Roller tappets solve this. Guy down the block built a DeSoto 331 for his Model A with roller lifters, and doesn't care about zinc. What I don't understand is how newer OHC engines get around this.....are they all running roller rockers? Does this mean older OHC engines, like say an old Alfa with bucket tappets should add zinc?