MV8

The sump should not be overfilled. This causes aeration of the oil, loss of power at higher rpm and increased crankcase pressure/oil leaks. If you want to have more oil capacity, run a remote oil filter that is larger than the one on the engine. There are filters that hold one or two quarts with much greater filter area for a longer life and less pressure drop or finer filtration with similar pressure drop as original without bypassing. You'd need to buy the block adapter separate from the remote base for a different filter. You can match the bypass pressure to the original (if it has a bypass valve) but it isn't critical. There is also a bypass in the engine near the oil pump. Hoses and fittings are typically 1/2 inch npt at the adapters transitioning to AN fittings. Pushloc hose works well and last a long time with hot oil but should be replaced when it gets stiff/hard. It will continue to harden until it gets brittle and cracks. Chevy and Ford pushrod v8 filters are a good choice.

I expect knifey means a hydraulic release bearing (HROB) rather than a slave cylinder which would be mounted on the outside of the transmission. HROBs that are oem type are spring loaded (have a rubber dust boot around the outside covering the spring). If the clearance is not correct between the pressure plate and the front transmission bearing retainer or the clutch pedal is pressed without the engine fully bolted to the transmission, HROB failure is expected. Aftermarket HROB don't usually have a spring (or a dust boot) and no stop so over travel just results in a leak instead of failure. Either way, it must come out to see what is going on. The easiest method is for the engine and trans to come out together, then be separated next to the car.

With the tube below the arm, the tube should be welded slightly inboard from where it was since the front arm end will be further inboard (to prevent push-pull on the rear arm) and the car jacked for the suspension to drop to align the end of the sway bar (some preload will be created at ride height) but not a big deal imho.

The State regulates the mechs who perform the function. The State will provide the mechs with guidance that should be available to you. Figure out where you are going them talk to a mechanic, not the counter salesman but he is correct; it is best is everything works. Here is an example of a tach and hour meter for lawn equipment. The one wire spiral wraps around any plug wire. It doesn't matter which one. May still read high or low depending on settings on the tach but it will indicate an rpm: https://www.ebay.com/itm/297337893643?_skw=digital+tachometer&itmmeta=01K36VFKG6SK234HW92X66BAT4&hash=item453ab8330b:g:JaMAAOSwNkNmKGGZ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dMJ40KGz%2B2hmCeYEz4eVtl05ch3Sd7XBpxehx6rQFMMNtFTQ%2FrEobH7vwFMRPP0nkKXapNcVZr3lZOgJlUbJcp074W066%2BHAyOk3j%2Fcmt%2Bf%2Bv8cNbdHCVBPfQ7yPTK2Ecs3aWBXeU5wBdODvXG4Q%2BfXD1e1IhiJQ%2BJleJdau4%2Fbyn0A%2BVvtAxCdGTbJ8jskiaAlMJdFaOzo6M11T9j8qbgoTwx%2BpoiTilj19W1Kr8rgTD5y7fY13QeE0qeX89euWM%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7q4vtuZZg

In your mirrored pic, I see 1 and 2 are ON. I don't know anything about your reference to 1,2,and 8 ON. Make sure 8 is also ON. If that does not read correctly, try 3 ON and 2 OFF. I don't know that everything installed in a vehicle has to work in Texas but I don't know their rules. I would ask for the rules or guide they use to determine pass/fail and follow that. If everything must work, I might remove it for the inspection and add a temp cover for the opening. There are universal, watch battery powered digital tachs that wrap a plug lead to get a tach signal. They are on ebay and amazon for $10 or less..

What I described previously:

Yes, I think it would be the correct balljoint. I don't know how much of the grip to the housing is due to the rivet-like assembly versus a press-fit. A new tubular arm could have flanges to use the standard spitfire ubj if there is enough room.

Glad you found a way. I'd make or buy a replacement trans mount (the plate that welds into the car), trim the edges so it will spoon/nest with the original and the holes will align, then cut out the center section leaving the tabs (like shown). The cut out piece can be a shim on the new plate if needed for setting the driveshaft joint angles.

Buy another? They seem to hold their value well. Everyone's time is valuable.

I don't think any welding would be required though a stitch could be added to the press fit. I'd probably press the old joint from the arm, machine a press-fit bushing (to replace the old ball joint) that accepts a standard spherical insert (see mcmaster for examples), machine/purchase a split taper insert to tap into the top of the knuckle (left slightly protruding when fully inserted), add rubber seal washers top and bottom to the new, spherical insert, then fit a high carbon bolt to hold it together. Besides standard wear parts, the knuckle length would now be adjustable.

I think you are currently in a position to be supported by the mfg with wiring diagrams. This is the time to ask for them. There are many different ways to use a dvm. Usually, you are looking for continuity without car power connected using the ohms (beep when leads are touched together) position. PM if you need more help.

Fear not. This is not a race car or being used as a race car. You can reuse your mag wheels if the corrosion is not too deep and you should treat the cleaned wheel with alumniprep33 followed by alodine (both available at aircraft spruce and also used for aluminum alloys). Unlike aluminum which forms an effective oxide layer to protect itself, magnesium's oxide is not as effective. Aircraft parts are often magnesium and without life limits but the chems are toxic and they must be maintained. Deep corrosion is the reason for failure (just as it can be for other materials) and will make a part scrap. If you are not going to make maintaining them a priority (like 90% of the population), switch to aluminum alloy or steel now. Unfortunately, shops are in a hurry but you are not. Since you do not have a big compressor to rapidly dump air through the valve stem and also have a valve on the compressor hose, install the valve stem and bring it up slow. Rapid means the beads don't need to be up against the rim when you start as the rapid increase will push the beads out toward the rim. In emergencies, they pour flammable liquid into the tire and ignite it to seat the beads (don't do this please). Again, with this size tire and appropriate rim width, it won't be an issue to slowly increase the tire pressure. They make dump tanks with a ball valve instead of an end fitting to press a valve core but still need a clip-on end that will stay connected. It isn't necessary. You should not need more than 20 psi to seat with the valve core installed.

Work fine in a drill. Use fine/blue. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404104712901?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D290432%2C290494%26meid%3D11b5c7a9729b49a884dc8c5e1d707b62%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D256787830586%26itm%3D404104712901%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV4WithCtxRankerV1ECPM&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A40410471290111b5c7a9729b49a884dc8c5e1d707b62|enc%3AAQAKAAABEHpsrQN%2BfAdDZYpPJGYWcJeM%2B7kOu0qCwhwpE0jI5WLZbLunKqjjv17aqA5FlcDVyvSFenRBY8aBUq%2FPJfsTBjvsyJZaZLA6rAzH2%2Fa2MXa47nyhPiAb7nZKrf7rBTERoAvjcBLd9SbNoGr6iRLQAR648Pe0BjG%2FIvLhAgMc03VdQeG4KZWlcDDRJQhjSS6iBX4TKCT8XvnSeXGy2eO3956ju51VPBoQxzQ8HWJRFnMGXyOM1hwmkXi3WehnJixlqv%2B2cfrJxJ73QJNfFXvP%2BZDOc8qGds9YqugU6HHLyCfJd5z35QKszTS%2FxSIKh2077mk44pAUzgp%2F4g8ekgFq4dpAVp0jryLZUJ5iyV5moU%2BR|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01K2MMFVE9M3FB38E7ZZ7R3BGD

If you are talking about seating the beads, I spray the tire beads with 50/50 dish soap/water in a spray bottle, reinstall the tire valve core, then slowly inflate listening and stop adding air when the tire sidewalls are starting to push out on the last bit of bead to seat. Usually only takes a few psi and a small "pop". For low profiles that are not quite wide enough for the rim, it can be a hassle but this should be easy. If the tire leaks are quieting (because the beads are up against the rim on both sides) and the tire sidewall is moving, just pulse air in if it starts deflating or doesn't quite seat yet. I try to put just enough air in that it takes about 20 seconds between the last pulse and the pop. Any portable household 110v air pump or roofer pump should be fine. The kind carried in the car, usually not or just tedious. Spray soapy water around the bead and valve to check for leaks after filling to the desired psi. Rim bead area should be smooth and clean. If needed, there are roloc plastic polishing wheels that fit drills with an arbor to smooth and clean bead areas. They do a good job of cleaning without removing metal. I highly recommend spin balancing versus a bubble system. The cost may include mounting to your rim. Typically, mounting is included when buying a tire, with the balance as a separate charge. If I did not have a spin balancer, I would just pay/trust someone else to do it.

I have several types. I guess what you have is an internal compressor? This kind is iffy when there isn't much room between coils near the ends: https://www.ebay.com/itm/286552241360?_skw=coil+spring+compressor&itmmeta=01K2JS4MH497HXE46N6GM8YWRR&hash=item42b7d834d0:g:UwsAAeSwmd5oY5Ko&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ckGI7Uy%2FlRNE9OS5qoDHfEbXBaEVpesOxaQE6QWZuKFBRpaUwubr9UjrzirX2VQE6hwESMx1rDPXb34AWjZxldalL5XGQM8VgdQBH4ZV9tCey%2FBJP3AsbZ0BMlY%2FW5zaGDhj7CaJuugMr3sINHZ1CpkwqAMIXlusmKqF0VdsQkNWIbLLnXalQuw%2BHQ3e2syep%2BxK8Q3yYN%2BEvgA439lzV3FbiYPIf2EgGZUcn7RUWKv0e%2BTKiuUGjCFbjcoGSIMIWzfJSJ%2FF8tSFWYTBgKSWDiBv9zuSmO1tfgmnZnjHsJRg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMgMqS2ZRm This one will probably work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/404835949894?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D290432%2C290494%26meid%3D6da5a0a5b5114d8898c030578f49103e%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D267343517564%26itm%3D404835949894%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV4WithCtxRankerV1ECPM&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A4048359498946da5a0a5b5114d8898c030578f49103e|enc%3AAQAKAAABAHpsrQN%2BfAdDZYpPJGYWcJeM%2B7kOu0qCwhwpE0jI5WLZbLunKqjjv17aqA5FlcDVyp%2B8KZIzRyS8ZZgusw%2FXh%2FpnKleLAdyjIU9BjgRe8KMsdyQKAaavH3NKOKo2eLChYZfmzw7q%2FEyhNlKAcEKyl8ADGBjNFfXoLXc0ZcrwGtKZ0yf%2B2NkmjfXyHUoc%2BFAlSPZz28aHAYsh2myF5gM1B37eke33OQ7bRRPHbjtc6s0W4eKigjQWOVjlZhy7HvJ9qa79O%2FF5u4NBytkZRUwZWTTkOVVKXvrMyPST12WFMzXVaeBN37%2FGhTjLFs%2BimHjOunQwn3aM5YObFatYGppewSE%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01K2JS91S3VQ0799PHZVVZ0P11 These are for larger springs and work well but you probably would not be able to engage more than one tab: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133734297396?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D290432%2C290494%26meid%3D5ec38632b1ea4abcb9a66eb9ed86f907%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D404835949894%26itm%3D133734297396%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV4WithCtxRankerV1ECPM%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A1337342973965ec38632b1ea4abcb9a66eb9ed86f907|enc%3AAQAKAAABEHpsrQN%2BfAdDZYpPJGYWcJeM%2B7kOu0qCwhwpE0jI5WLZbLunKqjjv17aqA5FlcDVyvHawCiovueK%2BZKmPUwri9IvWpVpIoHS8gokfCn4EpU%2B1XA%2FGBvq%2Bsr0cWoDsXJGW%2FliWKN0m1TDh%2BGRsZ1t51IrlH6EABue2JZMHcdrcqIHYXBMYjbGUbS8xb9R2H9qJT8tlpWNyePJxMW5A3JJ83vtHotct%2BXZpw6UhNQf%2BlIOg%2F6rSrsbNW4fRVQmO16cuLGy7R0Tm%2Fe0Hyf7em6gsEidPW2XlINjpzJnIOPd3eov0zBNGLg4AmieJbQ%2F9odpM0F2xC2EeNiHHp28woAXHO%2Fv6nC4HBFIzSY7xQdgFvej|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01K2JS9YNE11M97KQS2MAN733D

Specs below but in general, the pressure that provides use of the tread all the way across (even tire wear). Wider tires usually need less air pressure. The greater the pressure and the higher the aspect ratio (side wall width), the greater the grip on the rim lip and less likely a pot hole will result in a blow out from unseating a bead. Tires are like batteries when it comes to age.

What is the date code on the sidewall of the tire? A serviceable tire does not blow at the max psi but why so much higher than the correct pressure for these cars? Tires on limited use cars tend to age out of service rather than wear out. I personally (not a tire shop) have mounted, balanced, and installed dozens of walmart off brand tires on my vehicles over the years without issue.

He seems a tad negative. Makes me appreciate my Mazda 2.

Mcmastercar and ebay have a variety of latch clamps. May want a local shop to make sunbrella light colored fabric seat and a bikini top to reduce roasting down there.

I did not suggest reversing polarity. A pertronix mag or optical pickup should float allowing the use of a negative coil trigger with a positive earth chassis. Could also use a signal conditioning circuit to go between the neg earth tach and a positive earth coil being triggered by points. They also have cheap digital inductive tachs run on batteries that wrap around a plug wire that can hide under the dash for when you really want to know the revs. Trust me; they are HIGH at highway speed.

Sounds like it seized rather than outright failure. Could be it has file fit rings without enough end gap or the piston to wall clearance is just too tight. If so, you may get by with an overbore, new pistons, rings, and a temp gauge.

Late '60s MGB was still positive earth. Don't know if the tach on those is smaller. You can use a negative earth tach on a positive earth car. The main difference is you are controlling it (off-on) by the tach ground through the ignition switch with the tach power and light wires connected to the chassis. Because the negative is not split, the light would illuminate anytime the tach was ON but it could be wired in such a way to make the light independent of the tach being ON. The bottom line is the tach is still getting positive and negative on the correct terminals.

I wonder if you could not just take a common, neg ground tach and loop the coil lead a few tight turns around a plug wire to trigger the tach.

The pinion would need to be rotated so a trans slip yoke reference (like a ujoint cap secured to the slip yoke) could be accessed from the top or bottom to check the angle of the trans output shaft. The pinion angle would also need to be accessible from top or bottom (could also use the ujoint cap). The driveshaft tube would be the third reference. Ideally, each angle (pinion to shaft and trans output to drive shaft) is 1.5 degrees or less and equal to each other under normal driving conditions where it will spend the most time. The two angles do not need to be opposite, just equal. Another ideal is with a live axle, the angles are reduced to zero under full load with traction but not the primary focus. I'll see if I can find a link to a youtube video that shows how the shaft speeds up and slows down with each rotation whenever the angle at any joint is more than zero. These cars may be designed for the engine to be level front to back but it is worth checking. The good part of the birkin mounts is that the trans mount can be shimmed to adjust that without putting the engine mounts in a bind. EDIT: Found the video.