MV8

I tweaked my previous reply. May be difficult to keep the rod from falling out since it is a foot long and won't be going in more than a couple inches at any point. May need to wrap your hand around the rod (four fingers) loosely with the base of your hand against the head just to hold the rod at the plug angle. The goal being not to bind the rod at any point when raising the piston. Any resistance turning, stop, feel if the rod is still free. Any confusion or questions, stop and post or pm.

I think the engine tdc mark is just clockwise of the red line and 8-10btdc is probably the other line ccw from the red line. I'll assume you want 10btdc. If not, substitute below: I would verify tdc and mark the pulley to align with the engine tdc mark, then use a dial back timing light to set 10 btdc to adjust the distributor so the light shows tdc. Instead of having only the tdc mark, if you want to verify or make a 10btdc mark on the engine, while it is still running and the timing set to 10btdc, zero the timing light knob so it will act like older, non-adjustable timing lights to show the actual timing. The light should show 10btdc with the pulley. Then mark the engine for 10btdc for when you don't have a dial back timing light. You can determine actual tdc with a foot of 1/8 inch steel rod for $2 (or any thin, rigid rod that isn't fragile), a wrench, some tape, and any reference point on the engine behind the crank pulley. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-8-in-x-12-in-Cold-Rolled-Plain-Round-Rod-800397/204331423 Pick your reference point and with the engine near tdc, wrap two inches of masking tape over the belt groove in that area. Insert the rod through the #1 plug hole to touch the piston. It won't go far and is too long to drop in fully at any crank position. With the rod between your fingers and hand over the plug hole, rotate the crank slowly with a wrench in either direction. You will be able to feel which way the rod is going. Rotate in the direction pushing the rod out until you feel it starting to go back in, then mark the tape at the reference point on the engine. Rotate the opposite direction, pushing the rod out until you feel it starting to go back in, then mark the tape again. If you are consistent, TDC will be halfway between the two marks. An alternative to the dial back timing light in finding 10btdc is to use a protractor directly off the crank bolt or make a degree wheel out of cereal box or poster board using a protractor. 116E has a timing tab on the timing cover. 109E has no cover in the timing tab area (about 35 deg from vertical). I assume a cross flow head was fitted to the non-crossflow block? Hard to see from the pics .

It appears that no oil was added to the bores before the testing (not run since the '70s?) and the rings scrapped the rust off #1 and on to the plug. I would add a 1/4 cup of marvel mystery oil to each cylinder and slowly rotate the assembly through twice, then let it sit a day before motoring with the starter with rags over the plug holes to help catch the residual if any, then put the plugs in and get it running and hot, then change the oil or you can do another comp test. I would toss out the results of the first test. Is the picture of the crank pulley shown with the crank at tdc? Car looks great!

I don't know what year model you have, but an '87 model schematic shows a light switch, a dip switch, and a flash switch. The "flash" switch that has two terminals. Looks to be a "flash to pass" momentary switch. The dimmer has three terminals with the same number of wires and color coding as what you have in your pic. Also in your pic are two purple wires that go across a momentary switch for the horn.

Still warm here (was changing leaf spring bushes yesterday for poly). The sender has been smashed but not leaking. The wire doesn't look cooked/melty and the smoke would have been very brief with a distinct odor. It could be airflow around the bay is such that it is actually some oil on the header on the other side (maybe a small cooler leak). Could also be a cooling system circulation issue with the stat closed where the gauge says it is cold but there are hot spots, though that should continue to "smoke" for a period of time.

I agree. Looks like the front anti-roll bar snapped. Maybe he couldn't find replacement alloy rear wings.

I believe the broken, two-position toggle is the HI-LO beam dimmer for the head lights. SPDT "ON-ON" and at least 15 amp. A Cole Hersey 55015 would be a good choice. GM has a variety of oem horn notes (A, C, D, or F) that can be purchased second hand on ebay and generally better quality than aftermarket horns (opening always down to prevent water from entering the horn). I suggest adding a relay to save the horn button switch. The horns have the note molded into the case and any full size GM in the 90s should have all four notes onboard. To hear those together and individually: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiVowe2vcPY

Understood from a warranty perspective. While furloughed from an airline, I worked for a period of time at Harley Davidson as a mech because I thought it would be fun and unusual. It was! Made me park my Honda Silverwing automatic scooter in the back when customer's wives were always asking about it but anyway, Harley's used to be mechanic bikes, then they got trendy and expensive but still very simple. People were afraid to to do anything to them; even an oil change.

Update? Pics? Video? Scratch and sniff? No judgment on what could be a filthy engine bay.

You could still have it bent by anyone with a hydraulic press to bring the knob back a inch or two. Just need to check the clearance from the knob to the rear tunnel in gear.

I bet he gets those from the same place we do. You can buy those shown from Mcmaster. They need to be painted or greased as the high strength fasteners only come in black oxide finish. 170kpsi, 5/16-24, partial thread. Pick the length based on the unthreaded shank length of the original or slightly longer and use a washer if needed. Trim excess length beyond nut with a die grinder with a thin, 2-3 inch disc and debur. Subtract 1.125" from the listed length to get the shank length. If you don't want to trim threads, just using one of these with the same overall length should be a big improvement, though the original may have just been overtightened. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/socket-head-screws~/thread-size~5-16-24-2/threading~partially-threaded/finish~black-oxide-1/

The throttle plate was not machined correctly. Material needs to be removed adjacent to the spring area. You can do this with a carbide rotary file and a 3/8" drill. I'd expect to remove about 0.100" across the surface and probably square up the end toward the second assembly. If you bend it to make clearance (easy to do with a crescent wrench), that may bend the throttle cable guide on that side and possibly crack the plate, depending on what it is made of.

I would determine if the two assemblies bind individually or if they are just not parallel on the manifold. Loosen the mounting bolts a turn so the assemblies can move around a bit and recheck for bind. If it still binds, take them off and check the movement individually for bind in returning to the idle stop. They may not completely close at idle. I don't know if idle air flow comes from having the throttle slightly open or if it is an adjustable mechanical leak or electronic valve (IAC) controlled by the ecu.

Just going to dry sump will likely reduce the oil temp, not that it needs to be reduced. It seems most oems these days have oil coolers including the NA miata and 80s ford 2.3l turbo in merkur, tbird, and mustang, using an oil to water cooler sandwich under the oil filter with 3/8 lines plumbed in like a heater. This eliminates most of the problems with air-oil coolers (oil changes/draining, bulk, overcooling) and would help with a marginal cooling system.The net result is lower water temp.

Let me guess, hands-free so no ticket. Should be eyes free. The rear panel is welded to the side panel near the front of the wheel arch on each side. Repaired and painted is probably $3k? I suggest leaving the panel as-is considering the traffic in that area. Another option may be to smooth the panel in-place if there is room to access the inside but still leaves painting.

I think so. $15k and a trailer to drag it home. Nice spot for a slant six, cologne 4.0l v6 or squeeze in an Atlas 4, 5, or 6.

My understanding is that Spax will rebuild the higher end, fully adjustable dampers. I expect all that you need are the seals and oil. Gax is another option for replacement. All options are likely to be at least $800 by the time all four reach your door. Imho, the most costly part of a typical CAT.

Not surprising or rare. https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/mindmelding/201706/9-clues-you-may-be-dealing-psychopath

Your call of course. They are under dynamic crankcase pressure which can vary greatly and as you said, they are hard as glass (assume you were referring to the clear hose) from age and 40 miles of hot oil. Don't ignore any oil smells. Shorting out the alternator and splashing the header, some glass hose crumbs in the oil return and loss of oil are possibilities. There is a reason the clear hose is unusual (though the Chinese ebay oil breather/catch cans include it). Pressure is not an issue for reinforced pvc when kept within the temp range (150f max for this type) and used with compatible fluids (not oil). The hose becomes glass like then it no longer meets any of the specs. If it gets bumped or pushed with a stray thumb, it will likely fail soon if not immediately fracture. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/reinforced-hose/color~clear/ Replacement is easy. Loosen the clamps and slide out of the way, cut vertically at the barbs with a box cutter, put a short piece of rope around it to pull, and it might come out on one piece.

You can see the vw beam front end peaking out of the front wheel well. This looks to be the same car: https://barnfinds.com/morgan-alternative-1980-tiger-convertible/ While it is possible to have the vw front end and still have a mustang 2 under the bonnet and a rear diff, it would be a very odd combo for someone capable and willing to do it. There are some decent examples where only the body was used: http://www.collectorcarads.com/Morgan-Tiger/57291 Like the "Morgan" name means something different, "Tiger" these days means something like a Westfield.

That is a coolant overflow/catch for the surge/expansion tank. Allows the surge to run completely full instead of providing expansion space with an air pocket to compress.

Yes, missing wing supports and should be attached. You can see the support and mounting hardware on this '66 (grommet,washer, pan head screws). Wings were reinforced from '88-on so no need for the rear braces (from '88 assembly guide excerpt).

I like these, but I carry out since I have the equipment: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Waterfall-Eco-Dynamic-185-60R14-All-Season-Tire/454885257?from=/search I second running the dunlops. Tires have a shelf life. Check the date codes on the side walls. If over 4 years old (no matter when they were sold), you might want to pass and buy new.

952 lbs / 8-1/2 cwt is the correct figure (kerb/curb weight, unladen but with fluids) from testing publications at that time. Hundred weight (cwt)imperial measure is equal to 8 stone /112 lbs. By comparison, an S3 twincam is about 1200 lbs and an S4 is 1300.

Replace the reinforced pvc drain hose (available at Home Depot for sinks) with R7 fuel/oil hose. Need to measure the barb or hose id. Though it would see only crankcase pressure, it would be nice to have a pressure rated (reinforced) hose but those have a thicker wall, so if 1-1/4 od, then it will likely be less than 1 inch id. If it is 3/4 od, you can use R7.