MV8

If fitting filters over the horns, consider how far out you are willing to allow it to stick out. A solid metal cover filter requires a shorter horn to prevent restricting the flow. Everything else being equal, I'd go with a short bolt-on horn and a cotton gauze pleated filter that doesn't protrude much. I found a few mesh caps with a quick search. Mesh reduces flow more than a traditional filter. The bigger the filter or mesh of a given type, the less restrictive it is.

A 1/4 inch thick shim plate between the steel axle and the aluminum bearing carrier/caliper brkt would help but the inner cv tripod would ride 1/4 inch further out in the inner cv cup under all conditions (probably ok) and the rear track would increase 1/2 inch. OEM type calipers typically have some material that can be removed safely, observing wall thickness.

Hey, that's right out of the Daddy manual. Totally agree on TP, but my experience doesn't support that conclusion on DOT tires. Of course any modern tire is better than what they had back then. At least we can rely on change to be consistent. We can always wait until the sale is over.

175-60-13 on sale $38 each (yeah, that's right. I'm that tight): https://www.walmart.com/ip/Forceum-Trideka-P175-60R13-77H-Tire/362252943?athbdg=L1300 FWIW, I have my own equipment and have bought dozens of tires with strange names from them. Never had an issue with any. Not that great if you consider I used to pay less than $10 each for 155-80-13s off the sports page "from $9.99!".

I've never seen a plastic/aluminum rad direct mounted to metal by an oem; always rubber isolated for vibration. That looks like a special high efficiency/high fin count radiator. Ditto on the lower port clearance. Verify the L tabs welded to the frame for the lower rad mounting are facing the right direction.

Beaters are the best. Tighten everything back up and make it mobile. Fix one thing at a time only after you have the parts ready to put on and don't take apart anything but the one thing you can fix over a weekend. Don't disable the car for more than what should be a weekend project. Then you will get some use out of the tires before they crack. It should take less time to tighten it back up than to mark the loose bits. Treat everything like it was marked loose. Rotor rust cannot be prevented. The temps and friction remove any coating you could apply. The pads clean them each time you drive. You could spray some metal prep (phosphorous and water in a spray bottle) on the spring seats then rattle can clear or just brush some grease on. One step/project at a time. Running and driving between steps/projects.

I described the correct radiator. I provided overall dimensions of the 80's radiator for fitting in the nose, not the listed core size which is 12.75 x 16.5 (about 205sqin) with an elbow lower fitting. There was also a thinner core, lower capacity '80s Excel rad without the elbow. Replacement radiator dimensions can vary greatly and still fit the Excel mounting points. Even if a new old stock or replacement for the '80s Excel could be found, better (disposable/recyclable/more effective cooling) choices these days when a new copper core is outrageously expensive and the EPA has ensured that solvent tanks are few and far between. The scion is the best cooling for the cost if it fits the nose. Second would be a 3 row "racing" civic rad with baffles to fill the gap to the nose walls so the air is forced through and mounted as vertical as possible so the air does not need to change direction to pass through the core (less restrictive). The thicker the core, the more vertical it needs to be or the more effective the baffles need to be in forcing it through and not allowing it to go around. There are special cores for sloped radiator mounting but those are rare.

Stamping: 4 (lug) 95 (95mm/ 3.75" pcd) ET (offset) 12 (mm) Try Triumph forum classifieds. Standard spitfire 13x4.5 can be "rehooped" with new rims in whatever size, width, and offset. Ministock generally does not come in that bcd/pcd but probably could be ordered but again, would not match the oval holes of the three you have. Larger 7/16-20 studs can also be fitted to the original 3/8 stud holes in the hubs without modification.

If it is a Pectel, for a drop-in direct replacement or repair, I'd contact the mfg first instead of a distributor. Pectel Technologies, Inc., (949) 586-3609, 25 Spectrum Pointe Dr, Lake Forest, CA 92630 It may be more cost effective to upgrade to a current product with a little modification to the wiring and some software tuning. There are several mfgs out there who could provide what you need. Some pics of the ecu and engine bay might help narrow it down. It doesn't sound like you've done enough testing to determine that the ecu has failed.

I'd like to see your work. Brunton's site back in the day listed an Excel radiator as a donor part along with the s10 bits. He must have been referring to the '80s Excel rad which is 17.75w x 16.50h, vert flow, 3 row copper/brass, 1.125 and 1.375 ports. For comparison, the ebay "racing" scion rad is 276.5 sqin, 19.75w x 17.5h, vert flow, 2 wide row aluminum, 1.25 ports, and no cap port.

I guess your question is for Scott. I've seen different ones used, just like on locosts. Many different radiators could be used. Some pics of the engine side would save a lot of questions. Can you weld and fabricate or are you just looking for something that is a bolt-in? Some overall measurements and pipe sizes will help if it isn't obvious when I see it. Why does it need to be replaced?

If you have not already, be sure to paint the exh clamps. Maybe clear?

Real people or so funny to watch. Decisions pulled in every direction imaginable. I've seen videos of wornout diesels in runaway, running uncontrollably off their own oil before letting go. Extreme examples for sure.

Graham made me look! The caliper is available in either one or two piston version but the single has more area (less pedal effort/more pedal travel). https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront?itemno=140-12097-R&year=1998&make=Chevrolet&model=S10 Pickup&option=4 x 2 w/ Drum Rear Perhaps a side wager?

Ah, you have the expensive single piston floater calipers on unmodified (except the shortened toe arm for quicker steering) spindles. There is nothing wrong with drums aside from the weight but you can find kits for that as well from the same sources. You'll need parking brake type calipers and an adjustable proportioning valve if it has the original s10 type. Lot of kits for racing that don't have a parking brake function. I'd rebuild and paint the wilwoods, change the fluid, turn down the rotors, grease the bearings, change the seal, hoses, tie rods, and paint the drums and hubs flat black.

I wouldn't say entirely different. The only generally applicable difference between diesel and gas is the compression ratio and the type of fuel burned. To convert from gas to diesel, remove the throttle and ignition system, raise the compression, and add injectors and a high pressure pump system. As good as an engine designed to be a diesel? Definitely not but it isn't oil related. Less soot in the oil using gas.

Pictures please. Looking at a mount, it seems possible to install the trans mount backwards, which appears to make a difference of about an inch in longitudinal placement of the bell. Place a carpentry bubble level or a protractor on the valve cover and the engine bay longitudinal frame rails. I'd expect the shifter opening to be a couple inches behind the bottom of the dash panel. I think the type 9 and escort bullet 2000E have the trans mount further aft from the bellhousing mating surface on the main case but also closer to the shifter turret. It looks like your chassis was made for the trans you have. Some pics that could help would be the installation at the footwell/bell area that needed modifying (no judgement on bell trimming skills), side view of the engine from 4 feet at valve cover height, and a down view of the installed arms and mounts.

The s10 rotor has excess capacity in that it won't warp easily but it is also heavier than necessary. I'd consider cutting the s10 spindle, keeping the integral hub rotor, turning the rotors to just acceptable thickness and cross drill or spot face/slot for less rotating mass yet still more than adequate for such a light car, then fitting late 90s camaro two piston aluminum floating calipers, rails and pads with custom adapter plates. The camaro calipers were designed for the thicker camaro rotor at minimum acceptable thickness and worn out pads. If this is a concern, a steel shim could be fitted behind a backing plate (piston side would be better to insulate and more rim clearance to the caliper with new parts). The camaro rotor is also larger so fitting the caliper to a smaller rotor is not optimal but can be made to work well. Fitting calipers from a small rotor to a larger rotor is more difficult. The end result is more pedal travel/lower effort stops, less weight, longer lasting pads, less fade, etc. The same could be done with wilwood calipers for slightly more benefit to weight but the loss of piston dust boots that keep grit out of the bore and cutting a seal. Fwd full sized performance car calipers are also worth consideration. The integral rotor/hub can be machined to remove the rotor leaving a bearing hub, with a concentric ring made so the hub will accept whatever slip-on rotor you want that will still allow the caliper to clear the rim, but the scrub radius will increase slightly for the thickness of the rotor flange.

The issue with the s10 spindles is that the caliper mount is integral to the upright, and generally has to be cut off and a adapter plate fitted to use different caliper designs. Wilwood makes a caliper that would fit, but it is very expensive and is still the same basic design as the original caliper (single piston floater) but with some improvements. I assume much lighter (aluminum versus cast iron), a slightly larger bore and pads with a little more coverage/swept area. There are kits too that are a big improvement all around but will run about $2000. The size rotor you can run depends on your wheel size and offset. Some basic instructions on the modification: https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/ds706.pdf I think I'd just maximize the original parts.

Understood. Looks like a fun project. Looks like you had no issue posting your pics here. I think Jack's post was about locostusa and not a build log here. To keep things simple/compatible, I use a dedicated digital camera (old Canon SD1300) for taking pics and ms office 2010 (with an older OS) for a good editor. Everything else is too proprietary imho.

It depends on what model stalker you have and what aspect of the braking you wish to upgrade. Some pics would help. I'll guess that you have chevy S10 spindles, rotors, and single piston floating calipers with braided hoses and the concern is pedal effort. Stalkers have been around a long time so it could just need maintenance.

I'd check the nut major clearance at full droop, then shave the lower, big end of the lower spacer so the threads protrude from the full height nut lock. As long as the nut "teeth" clear the lca boss at full droop, it's fine. A socket would not be used at full droop. I would not swap for the half height/strength/engagement fender stay nuts but it probably works well enough. How thick is the nut? SAE 1/2 inch grade 8 nylock nuts are typically 0.593" thick. Older models have a specially made lower spacer/nut versus two pieces.

I think you have some damaged tripods inside the inner cv cups of the halfshafts but the diff is probably fine. Have you been bottoming out or getting airborne in the back end? Either way it is possible to damage the inners within the cups if the axles were designed slightly too long under some alignment specs and excess vertical travel. If that's the case you could just limit travel a little. The clamps and boots can be reused if your careful taking it apart to inspect.

I believe it would be the same as a 1963-1980 Triumph Spitfire for the inner, outer, and seal.

I'd make sure the trans vent is clear so pressure can't build and force oil out somewhere else, clean everything, refill, run hard briefly and recheck so you can catch it starting to leak and find the source.