MV8

If you find a car that just needs a bit more space but has aftermarket seats, a fixed, traditional squab type seat cushion can provide lower seating with more leg room. Very simple for a marine upholstery shop to make a comfortable, supportive seat and back with the variety of foams and materials available now. Imho, the adjustable/floating seats are one reason the cars are bigger now since some space was lost to do that. The early miatas fit me well (6', 220# thin, wide shoulder "solid" footballer type) after I removed the lump in the lower seat cushion bottom and the foam back insert, which always pushed me in the wrong spot. I sat lower, felt more supported, and the arm rest became usable.

I've bought other carbs (tiny aisin 2 barrels); not the webers. The parts should interchange. Here is a review: https://www.opelgt.com/threads/cheap-chinese-weber-38dges-clone.111797/

I'm talking about the overall input shaft length versus crankshaft to bell housing face depth. Since the trans and the bell come from different sources, I would measure to ensure the input shaft does not bottom out in the crankshaft, which can damage the trans and the engine. I'd check with a foot or so long rod or dowel, a straight edge about foot long, such as a ruler or paint stick, a fine tip permanent marker, and two carpenter squares. For the available depth, place the straight edge across the bell opening near the center and insert the rod through the pilot/spigot bearing to touch the crankshaft, then mark the rod where it just touches the straight edge. For the depth required, put the carpenter squares together to form a Z, with lone leg against the face of the trans case and the other across the tip of the input shaft. Add a 1/4 inch to ensure some clearance for crankshaft endplay. I'm sure Burton could tell you what it should be.

Right. I guess I could have asked how much rotation effort was "significant" and how the race was installed. It should have snapped back together with minimal, even effort around the center with a threaded rod through the center and a large washer on the inside against the race and through a board across the cap outboard face. That is how the bearing was originally assembled. Since the bearing is recessed into the bearing cap by a flange in the cap, and any normal bearing splitter is going to be flat, I don't see how it could be removed without the inner popping out. The only way would be with a specially made, stepped bearing splitter. Isn't working on cars great?!?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325311051111?epid=1323895269&hash=item4bbe0cb567%3Ag%3AH88AAOSwITNi~~Wr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoIC4T50q1GYGjc3Oe432zicqESg2zx14cF%2Buj1xJnhtn7MWAtAoMwrN70Ppfpu9U68QtRzwK9BE%2FTmMlnaEmk4Gd0mdsKwYVlK4JOmCSdZKivdO6ol8W1ZcUuS72u%2BqBBmMy9dzzXXeUDLcL2V9zGda8%2FAusbilvZkt0Exs1IwTiMrQ0kuTjJ9LS9419RA7U%2FVKy%2FFyUrNhyNd%2BhxK8mv%2FE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5TAhIjhYA&LH_ItemCondition=4 The manual choke conversion kit should be about $50. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265860271332?hash=item3de681cce4%3Ag%3Ad5YAAOSwMOdi~seg&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoGO4C8umjx0lmdm61dzJvVPol9Uzyzeu%2BeKN0lXdNnusYOFIxh1xOSQ8ngYs0sXUQwiIPhAf1KBmULVQDoNsMAmW5ap4gMQAAJME%2FpG5Kw1YAquEcae0BKzWAZy%2F1HoaHoUPhwV5CKgihcyrQdR2MML8m88vmtBH15ebkCpgx8BqQfZrZQFiUrGf8ZZI9L7VTd9TJy%2F6GgDNMAPEdZJJZfM%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5TAhIjhYA&LH_ItemCondition=4 New China might be ok. I've bought a few for different things that were ok. Sometimes the price variation on what seems to be the same carb is actually quality, as multiple State owned companies are making the same thing a little differently. For the cost of dinner and movie, it might be worth the experience to try while you locate a good core to rebuild. https://www.ebay.com/itm/144625613129?hash=item21ac5bb949:g:TikAAOSwTi1ivAq3&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4EJ%2FG%2FwhNd8IuVdglFWnaEK7RTrQ29mnp01mPj1yWlu0p2GATS2smbphEE84Jl%2FamHkbTk328X2WdNRyvizSGZC6Y9WcAe3V4GcZh214w27qmZpUPwvGZ2YIZConLMDSJyb%2F%2BQTVnz3X2PL8HU5NWsVyO%2BAKSgDIXPYSQPFnlA%2FIbA1Hrefd5D3KcxWSughkzeuBkmJDxi3k%2BIFz1mAKBm5eIk26l0mgt1OWM%2F8J7O5kmnAmslFGO0v2KyZztNBmnNatb4Mzi1IS92mjTHgV6usHB4LLIo0isSiLKtfg%2FMLC|tkp%3ABk9SR7r_6YjhYA

Based on your observations, my first though would be the parking brake lever on the caliper is not releasing fully or new pads too tightly without spinning the pistons back. I assume no brake smell though.

There seems to be some variation on the spigot length that engages the pilot bearing on type 9. I don't know if it applies to the E. If it is too long, the thrust bearings in the engine can be damaged. Quantum should be able to check that.

There is plenty of good switch gear to be had here and fairly cheap but anything that works for a few decades is good enough to replace with the original bits.

Interesting to see what you find as the cause of the squeal. Was there a washer/spacer between the inner and outer inner races to maintain the bearing alignment when the hub is installed or do they just butt together? Perhaps the inner inner did not seat against the shoulder/step in the shaft, causing it to be slightly further outboard compared to the inner balls and outer inner race held by the bolt on casing. Did you rotate the hub after torquing the axle and check for bind or noise in the hub?

They both have a diaphragm pump (versus a spring pushing a piston on a 28/32) but the 38 probably has a lot more volume. The shot will be higher volume than 1/2 a 38. Just something to consider. You may be completely satisfied with a 28/36 or a 32/36.

I agree. Improved drive ability for the same cam spec. Less ooh and ahh though, from those who won't be driving it.

The strobe lights wouldn't work too well around here. Most of the big rats wear Ray Bans.

I don't see any support for the brake lines. They are free to rattle and rub a hole where the first warning maybe it won't stop. One looks pinched that I would also replace and reroute. A fuel line looks like it rubs on the bellhousing. I'd probaby swap positions on the gascolator and coolant overflow tank to solve some routing problems. Overall it looks like somebody cared but some things are a bit off and could leave you scratching your head on the shoulder of the highway. I try as best I can to limit the break downs to actual part failures but you may very well be the luckiest guy in the world. I am not! Maybe you can video chat with NSX to look things over. Next best thing to being there.

I compared your pics to the schematics. It looks like the PO had some grounding issues, adding two extra grounds when repair of the original grounds would have been better. I'd wire it like this and remove the add-on grounds. The grounds are blue so they can be seen easier with the orange bands as cushioned metal clamps. I suspect the engine mount to engine ground needs maintenance. Without it, all the cars electrical load goes through the throttle cable and ujoint needle bearings among other things.

I'm wondering how the environment is going to hold up with all that lithium in everything. I guess a few hundred pounds of lithium will be in each car's battery pack. It is strip mined using diesel and mercury, but I'm sure it will be brought in from our (how do I put this nicely?) "competition" on ships powered by diesel. Once it is here, it can be recycled but as it is now for tesla, many are not and can end up in land fills. Many States ship their trash to other States. New York ships to Alabama. Eventually, I expect EVs will be leased instead of owned so they can ensure recycling and put everyone in a new loan for the latest model every few years, like taking a private bus if you can afford it. I can hear it now "what do you mean I can't buy a new battery?" All plugged into the system and all relying upon it. My god, it will be beautiful! (That was a joke). I think apple phone "repair" shops will be the business model. Hydrogen cells are the way to go but the proprietary lock on that is the exchange fabric that goes into the layers. Otherwise, a hydro cell is very simple and they've been around a long time.

Thanks for the pics. I like the dry box. Looks to be well taken care of. Imho, I'd replace all the fuel and heater hoses, add clamps to the metal brake lines off the master cyl, use some bits of hose or clamps to stop the wiring rubbing on the metal on the driver's/curb side, and fit appropriate length bat cables with split loom or slip over fuel hose to ziptie or use cushion clamps. The header wrap is minimal but it may cause the pipes to eventually crack. Between the brake switch/union and the heater hose fitting, it looks like a black wire may have shorted at some point. I think I can see the wire braid through the jacket. Might check the production date on the tractor batt and replace if over 3 years old.

If you can't wait for the tools, some of the auto parts stores have tools they loan out for free, such as a bearing splitter.

I'd remove the ground at the wiper motor, wire brush and reinstall; remove the batt terminals and use a round female wire brush made for batt posts and removable cap for cleaning the batt terminals, locate the engine ground near the left engine mount, and clean the batt ground terminal at the bellhousing. Even new batteries need to be cleaned before use. The grey is oxidation that insulates. Also, the click you are hearing may be the hazard relay unless it is a repeating click. Also, I would expect a Cat to have a euro spec ISO flasher pinout. North American spec is JSO and flips the ground with the input power terminals, but both are the same socket config and both meet fmvss and sae specs. You may want to recheck your fuses.

There are flashers with the same socket config but meant for different markets and are different internally. I'd go back to the original flasher to continue your troubleshooting. I suspect the ground wires need cleaning at the connections. Check resistance to the ground terminal of the battery to the engine block and chassis. It may help to post some pics at a distance of 2-3 feet of the engine bay, fuel pump or tank if in-tank, cowl, etc. I'll take a look at the schematics also.

The lifted wheel is the result of roll. While the bar is trying to lift the inside wheel, it is not a 1:1 ratio even if there were no twist to the bar (infinitely thick bar) . The net result is less roll to net a lower inside wheel. The primary downside is "push". How much from a bar that increases roll stiffness by 75 lbs at most is anybody's guess, but this is a fairly cheap part, much easier to change than springs and is worth a try.

Do not use a 2 or 3 jaw puller. Use this kit with all the necessary bits. Clamp the knife-edged clam shells around evenly and not especially tight, then add the H bar and threaded rods to evenly pull it off. Grease the threads. Should pop back together on the hardened inner. No problem if you don't crease the inner dust ring trying to put it back in and it is not stretched, loosening the fit to the inner race od. Tap around the circumference to reinstall. https://www.ebay.com/itm/313569109324?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D241587%26meid%3D06ce783277ce462bae8c7562c757c419%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D312653842810%26itm%3D313569109324%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1%26brand%3D8milelake&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A31356910932406ce783277ce462bae8c7562c757c419|enc%3AAQAHAAABMMFr2e4EmAnM%2ByHZkULYKDIJ4L66fOjNL0iupgt%2BzO1%2F3AE1t3mNirUYB96NktMCicMagiS6mbeTl0xquGODv9mza5EI4qt7uNzzvEoOJav987%2B02NN%2Bku14aeBggJT5Kzvtke0lTQip37Buk3VGsP1PZLzoBPTxf9gIvHs9qf9hwoyihfBzHJMH9qKQZn2cIIjyJe3uzWbH%2FZhgRmP9otRo0aSc15mCLV1kN4RidMJZYZYzCRWywZ%2FUlRLbrJbm%2FkPyrs2QKBxrKerqejqvXAa3glpJ76vBenvlG6lnPlk6IzILL9aK%2BIEr2hBTDMPVgtdrUv8vsije2FHkEdRHdJnt3wwdn%2BmqrCT%2FK2g8Upw6jkBLYde71%2BLqwOPhn%2BqkzyWg%2FCYTipdm3qWxY4mGJMg%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675&epid=23012962892

I'd go with the slightly larger front bar only and no other changes.

IMHO, if there is no course reversal or pull-back, Yes. If it is too late by then, it may be easier to take up residence in a more reasonable location for at least six months, title and register, then transfer when you move back.

The difference in thermal expansion between the thick weld and the thin cap and pressure is why it fails. Add a layer of silica cloth/mat/fabric to the inside of the cap. The material is similar to header wrap but you need one, wide piece to fit with no gaps. Cut the hole a little small to slip over the tube for a nice fit. Something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/8827K25/ Might want to do both ends.