MV8

I drove a 930 turbo convertible when I was in high school. Guardsman Red with the gold mesh wheels and wing. I was working at a tire chain and pulled it around to the bays under the watchful eyes of the owner. I'm such a nice guy, right?

Hard to find and expensive. I'd "upgrade" to the next gen wipac reversing assemblies. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=wipac+210&_sacat=0&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15 https://www.ebay.com/itm/162193950375?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162193950375&targetid=4580153136941819&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225723&mkgroupid=1224856224320864&rlsatarget=pla-4580153136941819&abcId=9300907&merchantid=51291&msclkid=8ec24040ef001b42051523f195cf12a6

Use an oil pressure switch in series with the pump relay control wire (positive or negative doesn't matter). This is how 80-90 gm efi pumps are controlled along with the ecu. oil pressure drops and the pump stops. I think it is about 4psi of oil pressure for the pump to operate using the gm switch but there are others.

To remove the oxidation, I'd try a Q tip and some fingernail polish remover (acetone) on the bezel but not the lens. A mist of aerosol rustoleum uv clear in flat, satin, semi-gloss, or gloss should work fine and no buff. Just enough to slow the fade.

Polycarb, acrylic, abs, etc can be formed in a normal electric oven over a wood stud (no pressure treatment) buck at around 200f (depending on the material) or less until it droops into shape. The height of the scoop should be no more than an inch considering the force it will apply to the windscreen frame at speed. Pickup two snaps. The rear edge should follow the frame top and back to aid the snaps to hold it in place. If the snaps are equidistant across the top, the scoop could be adjusted from side to side. Thin and flat, it would store easily.

That's not good but easily corrected. The holes should align perfectly. Looks like it may have been tweaked during shipping. It will bend easily. Fully torque the chassis fasteners. Bump the brkts after the 45deg bend with a 2x4x12 so the distance between the upper holes matches the radiator fastener holes. If you go too far, bump or pry with a 2x4 the other way. You can slot the end of the 2x4 (with the grain using a circular saw) the depth of the straight flange to use as a lever. Once the distance is correct, lay the 2x4x12" against the swaybar behind the rad brkt fully bolted to the chassis. Bump the front edge with another piece of 2x4 as a "slapper" to bring it parallel to the 2x4x12. Blows are like casting a fishing rod versus swinging a bat. Multiple light blows are better than one heavy blow.

In general, a dial caliper and tape measure (for determining the old rate) and a coil over specific spring compressor (for installing a softer rate, longer "free length" spring) are required but you may not need any of these tools. Details are important for deciding what rate is appropriate for touring. Springs are universal and cost around $100-250/pair depending on the vendor and coil diameter. An adjustment to the coil over damping rate can also cause a rough ride. Bigger wheels, tires, brakes, and higher rate springs usually weigh more and may require more damping and/or rate to control this unsprung weight trying to stay in constant contact with the road. Depending on how similar your car will be to your buddies tourer, you may be able to use the same rate springs. Deciding what to buy is the hard part but a bad choice can be reversed easily.

Ready for arts and crafts? Anybody can make them if you can make the patterns by direct measurement or test fit cardboard. Trying to reinstall cut off brackets is a lot more work. It is much easier to make an accurate pattern for each piece out of cardboard as if it were metal. Cereal box or pizza box works fine. Plenty of that to practice with until you get the hang of it. The cardboard should match exactly what you want in metal. Do not try to drill perfect holes in the CB. Hold the CB parallel to the actual brkt on the axle, then mark the CB through the holes in the actual brkt. Wobble the sharpie around to try and make a circle on the CB that you can find the center of. You can also fit the hardware in the actual brkt to make an impression in the CB. Once satisfied with the CB fit on both ends of the axle that the hardware will fit perfectly, measure the thickness of the original brkts. I suspect the flanges to be 0.125-0.185". As for the spacers, good close pics from various angles and dial caliper measurements are needed for all the od and id. I can make them if you don't have anyone local but it can only be as good as your patterns and dims. Frankly, it isn't that critical since the hardware is just a clamp. Nothing is spinning or precisely reamed. Speedway motors sells all sorts of universal brkts for 3 inch axle tube. When ready to remove, a cutting torch or handheld bandsaw can get most of it followed by an angle grinder. A friction disc will take a long time and will still need grinding.

Seems like a good time to move the pads on all the pedals up to where the ball of your foot is with a shoe or sock on. Don't see any benefit to an up stop on the throttle but it could also be for that.

I'd be surprised if a kit exists though I have seen reinforcing kits. The damper/arm brkt clamps on with ubolts. Maybe someone with one can provide a few measurements for the brkts and the A frame attachment. Chima's car has a great looking attachment that looks lower than original. http://www.britishracecar.com/CraigChima-Lotus-Seven.htm

That would be a busy weekend to be back on the road Monday. You might want to do a quick compression check for variation and check that the timing marks line up with the crank on tdc and the rotor pointing to #1 in the cap. Head gaskets, block decking, and head surfacing/milling for a flat surface and/or higher compression can retard the timing and reduce valve to piston clearance. It can be corrected with an adjustable cam pulley or head shims.

Agreed (though I'm sure with a half-day of practice your brazing would be excellent. I prefer a rose bud tip). For comparison, there was a complete, still assembled/rolling S3 on the San Francisco craigs list a few months ago asking $7k. I half expected to see a utube video of it being driven around a yard after a weekend of tinkering.

Looks like it's all there but awfully expensive for a basket case.

Might try a flat or semi-gloss, uv clear before installation to slow down the fade.

That looks like an "interference" capped branch designed to reflect waves in a phase to improve cylinder scavenging over a broader rpm range. Definitely old school/forgotten tech.

I'd pull the engine and trans together with the hoist and a harbor freight leveler to help with the angle, then separate out of the car. Drain the trans first. If you have 3-4 inches of clearance between the crank pulley and the chassis where you could slide the engine straight forward then lift, you may be able to pull just the engine or just drop the trans if there are no integral cross members below the trans and the trans mounts to a removable cross member. Consider new trans input and output seals and greasing the ujoints.

A low profile scoop that snaps on to the top of the windscreen to direct air down behind the windscreen would have a similar effect without the heating. An acrylic or polycarb panel between the head rests would help too. I expect an S2 or S1 would have much less buffeting due to the narrower rear wings.

Howe #3424: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325413522890?hash=item4bc4284dca:g:x48AAOSwdHljZ4kr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4KczOMDOD0pXdzdnWrTlaKsBf%2FVY%2BqI94bFvAOCWa6nmwvtDcxUo26yitsqcnbtSsgPQGcFHl59DUM%2FdRKAOIoVpWw47EHW5sLl30TFqDURMbFnzj8GXYu83fDJPiLL68FPJ5J8IGNI1ajXxlYqxdNLzl1zvDiezRf%2FFz1oIc54Ykr51KtML3ZdiR2h0Q1FTtzdgnpEWqiHMwfuolTu5EmHPEkqXY0r77JV949J06%2BSR1A1n%2FxDyvp9BJrk5lma3difcAMLRyAMUFnfyPDYrISyjkkEHr%2FjgisPqgm58zYF5|tkp%3ABk9SR-KxpYerYQ

Unfortunately, single carb models are hard to find and the fiberglass bonnet scoop to clear the air cleaner is not readily available for converting. It seems most were "upgraded" to dual carbs. Here is an S1 ("road" trip?): https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/lotus/7/2474818.html

Dan, let me know if you need me to find the right type of crimper for the C835 plug terminals. It isn't the standard red-yellow-blue color coded type crimper.

It sounds like you want a 61-68 S2 chassis and narrow axle/rims/wings with the 1600 crossflow, referred to as a "S2-1/2". If the axle holds up, it sounds ideal. It might be feasible to fit early style wings on an S3 with narrower, S3 bolt pattern wheels.

The 1981-2010 switch has six pins and the other has four. You'd need the mating socket and socket pins to use either switch. The pins may require a special crimp tool if they come bare with no wire crimped on for splicing. You may need to buy an instrument loom if they don't offer the hazard pigtail portion. It would also take some time analyzing schematics for both but you can use any switch with enough extra effort. I suggest carling switches, where you can have any option, everything is available, the crimper is not expensive/proprietary, and the switches are very durable. Typically used for high-end marine applications.

It should be the same.

The seller may have those parts. My understanding is that technically, the Seven started being a Caterham in 1973 (S3) and not a '60's S2. The info I have indicates S2 and S3 should both have a 32x10 windscreen and the same attachments. The screen assembly is available from CAT in the USA but it will still be some work: http://www.beachmanracing.com/windscreens-and-wiper-parts S2 and S3 chassis differences are fitment of the wider track ford axle and full length exhaust mounting.

I think any, mass produced sealing washer would benefit from annealing. Better sealing at lower fastener torque. Like anything mass produced, there is a tolerance so the dims will vary.