MV8

Mid-90s Land Rover Defender is the source and not too hard to find here for $15-30 lens to complete.

In my state, I've seen them go around in the morning and put their hand on the hood of cars to see if they are warm. They put the warm ones off toward the end of the day to inspect then accuse them of driving in and refuse to inspect, as if a warm hood proves anything or they have the right to deny. A uhaul tow dolly is under $100 and good for all day. Model not listed to determine towing capacity? Pick a model A to tow behind an s10. I did that many times before buying my own dolly.

I'd eliminate the preload on the lens od that puts the mounting boss in tension so the tightness of the screw will not matter so much. Easiest way would be to epoxy a washer to the base to keep it in place so replacement lenses won't have the same problem or sink the screw head seat in the lens. Careful filing of the base bucket edge is another option. You can determine how much is needed (thickness) to unload the lens bosses by sandwiching a bit of clay/plasticine from a crafts store and lightly snug the screws. You could also improve the strength of the lens with a clear epoxy meant for acrylics to fillet the corner between the bosses and the lens face to spread the load.

I'm guessing the bonnet contact is only from engine movement (left mount lift) under load. You could check the actual clearance at rest with modeling clay. If that is the case, a loop/strap over the left engine mount could be added. A 3/8 bolt could be fitted to a 1/8x1x6 (as long as needed) strip. The head would be between the mount bolt head and the strap with a jamb nut to set the height and engine movement. It doesn't need to be especially strong/heavy. Otherwise, I'd remove the cover.

It looks like the dust cover could be shimmed with 1/4" thick washer epoxied to the bottom of the cover or the stand offs modified. Shimming should also improve the clearance at the coil on the end.

Understood. I assumed it was a 90. I've been wanting to build a kiln to cast my own parts using the lost foam method. Bent, scrap alloy wheels are a great source of material.

I'd look for vacuum leaks everywhere on the intake side including anything connected through a hose. I don't know what you can see with software, but also check the TPS volts at idle, fuel pressure, and temp indication for out of cal sensors or wiring/connection problems but it seems like delayed or poor MAP response. If the MAP is located off the engine and connected by a soft hose, to decrease the delay in response to manifold pressure, I'd fit aluminum tubing that is the same OD as the end fittings with just an inch or so of hose at the ends to slip on for sealing. You can get the tubing from Aircraft Spruce. I'd mount the MAP as close as possible for minimal tubing length.

https://wearehomesforstudents.com/student-accommodation/glasgow No affiliation.

Charles Lindberg had one of those. https://www.kitplanes.com/warner-185-radial-engine-to-enter-production-again/ Hmmm....... A Monocoupe 90/185 (experimental) and a ballistic chute while you sort out the limitations? Maybe a detuned version that doesn't test the spars so much. It's so hard to leave things alone.

The 4.3l is another great under-appreciated engine. So many projects, so little time.

Based on what you've said, I'm guessing the pressures are probably about what they should be. They fall in line with some other machines (like the early Taurus SHO). If I still needed a hard to find regulator, I'd be tempted to switch to a high quality (for safety), inline universal, vacuum referenced regulator that is adjustable and has a built in gauge, not that I would ever raise it much over specification.

I understand. All the parts vendors now show "click bait" parts they will never have. I'm currently building a triumph spitfire with a 2.8l carb, T5, 8.8 IRS, and taurus based IFS. I bought it at Road Atlanta dirt cheap because it had been badly butchered for an sbf. I also built a 2.8l tbi geo tracker convertible for my wife. It has a 700r4/4L60 that I'm going through now with some improvements. Much lighter than an s10.

Hooray! I completely forgot about that crazy spring loaded gasket.

I guess I should have asked why you wanted to replace the fpr. A weak/failing pump and partially clogged fuel filter can cause lower pressure. The pumps wear out. If they ever suck air, they are usually done. Good news is that a bosch type pump is fairly universal so easy to find.

Thanks for the offer but I like the modified 2v. Look what I just found: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Edelbrock-3785-Performer-Intake-Manifold-Base-1982-85-2-8L-V6,109825.html I've used the holley 2305 progressive 2v that works really well but those are also very hard to find.

I'm not sure how well over winter storage additives work with ethanol blends. I'd drain everything and add fresh non-ethanol. You might also pour the existing fuel in a clear two liter and let it sit, looking for separation of water and fuel. Old Caterhams don't always have sealed evap systems and let the humidity in to settle under the fuel. Checking for water under the fuel in the tanks is a common, regular process with aircraft that do not have the disadvantages of ethanol blends.

I suggest picking up a factory Opel Astra (probably the G model) service manual if that covers your specific year model 2.0l. I would expect to see 40 psi at idle. It could be the one you bought used is not sealing well enough. How high is the pressure with the vac line unplugged?

Actually you said that I couldn't find any, but it doesn't matter. Just making conversation. The aftermarkets are still very tall and not much better than a modded 2v, especially for what they cost when they can be found.

I'll bite. What do I get for each GM v6-60 carb intake I can find for sale?

The flange is offset on the type 9 mount. I think it is the one I linked to; GB2E400 (MT8162). Just went through a catalog I have and put this pic together on the rocket Type E and Type 9 mounts with the applications and dimensions. Notice the GBT9400 (MT8163) requires a large pocket below the mounting flange but both stick up 45mm.

A photo of the bottom of the tail housing of your transmission might help. Is it two bolt holes or one in the center? A photo of the tunnel area where the mount would bolt-in would help too. I would expect to see a single hole in the belly pan to access a single bolt to attach the chassis mounted mount to the transmission. The mount may still be bolted in from the inside of the tunnel.

If you want to start with a lower intake that is a little bit lower than the tbi for a lower bonnet: I made an alternator bracket to hug the engine using the newer cs alternator.

Do you have an old one to compare it to? I think it is probably mk1 or 2 cortina: https://www.burtonpower.com/gearbox-mount-ford-cortina-mk1-mk2-gb2e400.html

I mostly push GA paper now with an occasional proving run if I must but I don't miss the noise. I enjoy watching the STOL competitions. Out of those, it sounds like the J3 would be the most fun (with tundra tires).

She is probably smarter than all of us combined.