MV8

Would you post some photos of the cable at the pedal end and the routing? What is the cable source? I'm guessing the bend radius is too tight. Sometimes, if the engine throttle and pedal are too close, a much longer cable that loops will work better. You may be able to reverse the direction of pull at the carb or pedal for less cable bend.

Looks great Alex. Thanks for sharing.

This is just a screw to hold a cover on, not a locking lug nut. It may not be hardened. ALL the methods described could work; it depends in part on who is wielding the tools. Pick the ones to try that are least likely to damage anything first. If all else fails and out of desperation, you must try to weld around your MAGNESIUM centers, cover the entire wheel so the mig spatter doesn't damage the finish.

You can also ruin it with an ohm meter.

Contact the company that made (MB) them in the off chance they can provide a key. If there were more room around it, a 12 pt socket that is one size too small to slip over could be hammered on to remove it, then thrown away. Careful application of a small chisel could crack them loose which is all you need to do before using the large needle nose pliers with a channel lock wrench to rotate the pliers. Another option is to use one of those universal sockets that are full of a couple dozen steel, spring loaded pins (like seen on tv). A small pencil torch that runs off butane can be used without damaging the cap finish.

A good pic of a wheel lock would help. Many different kinds. A wax impression could be made as a pattern for cutting a replacement key. I'm sure replacement locks are available once you get those out.

Mid-90s Land Rover Defender is the source and not too hard to find here for $15-30 lens to complete.

In my state, I've seen them go around in the morning and put their hand on the hood of cars to see if they are warm. They put the warm ones off toward the end of the day to inspect then accuse them of driving in and refuse to inspect, as if a warm hood proves anything or they have the right to deny. A uhaul tow dolly is under $100 and good for all day. Model not listed to determine towing capacity? Pick a model A to tow behind an s10. I did that many times before buying my own dolly.

I'd eliminate the preload on the lens od that puts the mounting boss in tension so the tightness of the screw will not matter so much. Easiest way would be to epoxy a washer to the base to keep it in place so replacement lenses won't have the same problem or sink the screw head seat in the lens. Careful filing of the base bucket edge is another option. You can determine how much is needed (thickness) to unload the lens bosses by sandwiching a bit of clay/plasticine from a crafts store and lightly snug the screws. You could also improve the strength of the lens with a clear epoxy meant for acrylics to fillet the corner between the bosses and the lens face to spread the load.

I'm guessing the bonnet contact is only from engine movement (left mount lift) under load. You could check the actual clearance at rest with modeling clay. If that is the case, a loop/strap over the left engine mount could be added. A 3/8 bolt could be fitted to a 1/8x1x6 (as long as needed) strip. The head would be between the mount bolt head and the strap with a jamb nut to set the height and engine movement. It doesn't need to be especially strong/heavy. Otherwise, I'd remove the cover.

It looks like the dust cover could be shimmed with 1/4" thick washer epoxied to the bottom of the cover or the stand offs modified. Shimming should also improve the clearance at the coil on the end.

Understood. I assumed it was a 90. I've been wanting to build a kiln to cast my own parts using the lost foam method. Bent, scrap alloy wheels are a great source of material.

I'd look for vacuum leaks everywhere on the intake side including anything connected through a hose. I don't know what you can see with software, but also check the TPS volts at idle, fuel pressure, and temp indication for out of cal sensors or wiring/connection problems but it seems like delayed or poor MAP response. If the MAP is located off the engine and connected by a soft hose, to decrease the delay in response to manifold pressure, I'd fit aluminum tubing that is the same OD as the end fittings with just an inch or so of hose at the ends to slip on for sealing. You can get the tubing from Aircraft Spruce. I'd mount the MAP as close as possible for minimal tubing length.

https://wearehomesforstudents.com/student-accommodation/glasgow No affiliation.

Charles Lindberg had one of those. https://www.kitplanes.com/warner-185-radial-engine-to-enter-production-again/ Hmmm....... A Monocoupe 90/185 (experimental) and a ballistic chute while you sort out the limitations? Maybe a detuned version that doesn't test the spars so much. It's so hard to leave things alone.

The 4.3l is another great under-appreciated engine. So many projects, so little time.

Based on what you've said, I'm guessing the pressures are probably about what they should be. They fall in line with some other machines (like the early Taurus SHO). If I still needed a hard to find regulator, I'd be tempted to switch to a high quality (for safety), inline universal, vacuum referenced regulator that is adjustable and has a built in gauge, not that I would ever raise it much over specification.

I understand. All the parts vendors now show "click bait" parts they will never have. I'm currently building a triumph spitfire with a 2.8l carb, T5, 8.8 IRS, and taurus based IFS. I bought it at Road Atlanta dirt cheap because it had been badly butchered for an sbf. I also built a 2.8l tbi geo tracker convertible for my wife. It has a 700r4/4L60 that I'm going through now with some improvements. Much lighter than an s10.

Hooray! I completely forgot about that crazy spring loaded gasket.

I guess I should have asked why you wanted to replace the fpr. A weak/failing pump and partially clogged fuel filter can cause lower pressure. The pumps wear out. If they ever suck air, they are usually done. Good news is that a bosch type pump is fairly universal so easy to find.

Thanks for the offer but I like the modified 2v. Look what I just found: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Edelbrock-3785-Performer-Intake-Manifold-Base-1982-85-2-8L-V6,109825.html I've used the holley 2305 progressive 2v that works really well but those are also very hard to find.

I'm not sure how well over winter storage additives work with ethanol blends. I'd drain everything and add fresh non-ethanol. You might also pour the existing fuel in a clear two liter and let it sit, looking for separation of water and fuel. Old Caterhams don't always have sealed evap systems and let the humidity in to settle under the fuel. Checking for water under the fuel in the tanks is a common, regular process with aircraft that do not have the disadvantages of ethanol blends.

I suggest picking up a factory Opel Astra (probably the G model) service manual if that covers your specific year model 2.0l. I would expect to see 40 psi at idle. It could be the one you bought used is not sealing well enough. How high is the pressure with the vac line unplugged?

Actually you said that I couldn't find any, but it doesn't matter. Just making conversation. The aftermarkets are still very tall and not much better than a modded 2v, especially for what they cost when they can be found.

I'll bite. What do I get for each GM v6-60 carb intake I can find for sale?