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Off Road SHO

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Everything posted by Off Road SHO

  1. Or a loose ground where the Negative battery cable attaches to Frame or the smaller ground wires that ground the ECU or relay pack. A lot of times people have a great battery, just poor connections. Tom
  2. Wayne, What engine will that bolt up to? Tom
  3. 1550 with full tank in my Superformance S-1. Tom
  4. I'd have to ask my Dad for help if that was the case. Tom
  5. How many kidneys do I really need again? Tom
  6. Hey! A Superformance S-1 just like mine. Whose is that? Tom
  7. I know their Mother always liked the Lotus best. Badabing!
  8. Boy, there's a lot of lightness that can be added to THAT!
  9. And didn't I just see an ad by TomTom about their new camera? Tom
  10. Not that it matters to Americans who habitually “jump onto a hashtag train” and transform what’s a normal — and necessary part of life — into an “absurdist circus,” he wrote. Ain't that the truth. Unfortunately. Tom
  11. Probably bumped an ignition relay of some sort. Do you have easy access to all your relays? If so, pull out and put back each one in turn. Tom
  12. I'm 6'3" and 220 lbs and I fit in my S-1 but have to bring my knees up a little.
  13. I wonder if the suspension seats that they put in off road race cars would be any help? They are very "large" though so might not fit. You sit on a piece of canvas supported by parachute cord from a tubular metal frame. Just a thought. Tom
  14. I am much smaller than a 36" diameter waist. :-)
  15. Yes it could but the 15,000.00 all-in cost could be cost prohibitive to some. Tom
  16. Well, my manometer testing didn't give me much to go on. At speed the pressure diferential between closed up engine compartment and cockpit was only .09 psi where at rest it was 0.0. So it is building up pressure but not much. Removed the belly pan and while it was less buildup of pressure, still pressure. Removed the hood and had 0.0 psi and no heating problems. Put the belly pan back on but not the hood and no problems at all. So I do have a lack of pressure differential between the front and rear of the radiator. The fact that my engine is sucking 2 cubic feet of air per second out the area in front of the radiator at 3500 rpm's probably doesn't help the pressure differential much either. So now I have put everything back on but removed the little plate just behind the nose on the bottom. This is behind the radiator so we will see if that creates more negative pressure inside the engine compartment. Edit: Just got back from a quick blat and opening up that little panel didn't help much at all, still ran well above thermostat temp, 220 and above. Maybe I should build a temporary chin spoiler to see if I can cause enough negative pressure behind the radiator to cause more air to go through the radiator. I noticed there is a device right behind the oil cooler that looks like you can put an air hose on it, like the one on top for cabin air. It doesn't have a hose on it and I'm wondering if that opening is allowing the air to bypass my radiator. It might be time for me to design and build a shroud for the radiator with a puller fan. Tom
  17. I used rubber lined "hands" to hold the top and bottom of my radiator and intercoolers. No metal to metal anywhere. Most new cars use the rubber bobbin type of isolator. Tom
  18. Movin the queen, keeping her cool while the scouts were out looking for a new home for her. Tom
  19. Dave, I figured as much about the lack of exit area. While I have the digital manometer borrowed I will take some readings with and without the pan. So do you think the side exit ports are in a high pressure area because of the taper of the front of the the car? BTW, My son-in-law designs and builds UAV's for "special purposes" and he pretty much confirmed the ingress/egress ratio also. Tom
  20. Easy. Get a few copies of Sport Pilot magazines, open them up to the ads in the back and circle some really hot single seat race planes, the most expensive ones. Leave on coffee table along with an ad for a two seater Locost. When she asks, tell her you're not sure which one to buy. She will not only go with you to pick up the LoCost, she will hook up the trailer to the truck for you. Tom
  21. Dave, Wow, thanks. I have all 5 of those symptoms to one degree or another. My pump is probably cavitating, causing the excessive noise. I don't think it helps the vapor locking issue having a return fuel system that is always trying to cool off the small cramped engine compartment with fuel. Have you thought about contacting the company that actually built the S-1's for Superformance? I think they are still in business in one form or anther. Hi-Tech, out of South Africa. Tom
  22. Coffee, It's digital. I doublt if it skips more than 1 or 2 cylinder firings, it's that quick. I'm about ready to do a pressure test on my engine compartment since I don't think much air can flow through it with the bottom of the car all closed up. I have a digital Manometer that I hope is sensitive enough to measure whether the is a pressure differential of 2 psi or less. If I get less pressure with the bottom off the car, I will know that I have to open up the bottom louvers more. When I have the bottom plates off, I can check for pinched wires. Tom
  23. Did you have to remove the bottom cover to find that? And is your fuel pump really noisy also? Tom
  24. Just every once in a while. Like once in 400 miles. It's like the engine is switched off for about 100 milliseconds and then continues on like nothing is wrong. Do any of you other 55 owners ever experience this blip? Tom
  25. Aren't the 7" buckets the same buckets that the off road industry has been using for years? There should be a 100,000 of them on the internetz. Tom
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