yellowss7

Washer fluid?

Danny, thanks, that would be fun, but have you checked the weather forcast for Saturday? 40's rain and possible snow. That's Evo conditions not a Seven's. Tom

:nopity:Never happened when he drove a Buick. Guess he can't keep it in the fairway all the time.

10 pounds a tire? or 10 pounds in total? Big difference. Al, I just talked to a guy who has his uncles Lotus 7 from the early 60s, and hasn't had it out in over 30 years. I may go take a look at it. I may want to talk to you about the restoration of yours. Happy Thanksgiving Tom

Danny, if by "Dedion hub", you mean the Dedion "Ear" it it a common problem even with the new Caterham 8-10 spoke wheels. A little light maintenance with an angle grinder on the ear will sort that out easily. Tom

Box, my street tires and wheels were Avon Cr500's 175x55x13 on I believe 6.5 or 7 inch wheels, at the front and Avon Cr500 205x55x13 on 8.5 inch rims on the rear. I just replaced the Avons with the Toyo R888's. Rears are 205x60x13, fronts I think are 175 or 185x60x13. The wheels are the Mike Barnby 3 piece Magnisium wheels that use to come with the R500's before Caterham switched to their 8 or 10 spoke jobbies. Same ones pictured on Craig Chima's car that's being discussed on another thread. The Hoosiers are on 10x13 3 piece Kodiak wheels at all four corners. Don't remember the tire size off the top of my head. If needed I can go take a look at them. Tom

Danny, good seeing you again too. Next year will be fun to run with you. Can't wait. As for slick tire pressures, I run my Hoosiers at around 12-12.5 psi cold. When I ran on the track at Barber, I bumped them up to 15-16 cold. It was still pretty chilly on Sunday around 58 or so, and from past experience, it's almost impossible to get or keep any heat into them when it's that cold out. I think that next year, once it warms up in the spring/summer, you are going to see what these cars can really do with new rubber. And if they come up with the next site that they are working on, (a large concrete runway) grip will be incredible.:drool: Tom

Not really 7 related but definately a general tech tip. Enjoy Tom [/url]

Ditto what Todd says re: the Dry Sump. My Rover K series is dry sumped and the guys in the UK strongly advise not running slicks without one for the K. Guess it depends on your engine. I understand the Duratecs don't suffer the same issue. Tom

Becs should be lighter, so I'll say 1030 lbs. Tom

Al who????:leaving:

I played Hockey in High School and College and I still can figure out how he did that. :cooldude::cooldude::cooldude: I'd love to see a pro try that during a Penalty Shot. Tom

Mine wasn't that long. Placed order December 24th,1999. Picked up Kit at Customs August 20 something, 2000. Start build. Engine arrives October 2000. Start legal procededings to get issues resolved with dealer. :boxing::rant: Actual build time 80 total hours. Car registered and on the road by August 2001.

I did my first track day at LOG29 this year and used Hoosier R25B compound slicks. I can't compare them to Dot compound tires but I know that Michael D. who posts on here, uses the Hooiser A6 compound DOTs for his NASA events. He did say that A6's (the autox compound) was better than the R6 (race compound) for the lightweight 7's. I did 5 15-20 minute sessions on New Hoosiers, that were in the softest compound (R25B) and Other than picking up a ton of "other peoples rubber" after I scraped that off there was very little wear on them. Being a trackday novice I can't say that I was pushing the limit on them, but they felt good all day. I definately didn't overheat them. Tom

Entry oversteer? When I ran on the Avon CR500's, which came with my car and are pretty sticky, I found that entry Understeer was my problem, probably from entering the turn too hot, so the oversteer you experienced surprises me. Check your Rake front to back as that can easily cause oversteer if it's too high in the back. That or the right foot can also be the culprit. It's not too hard to induce oversteer with the throttle. Talk to Mike D. as I think his car is pretty well sorted, unless he changed the set up for his trackday forays. He was the cause of me going to the Hoosiers, I was running the Avons and he let me drive his on the slicks, It felt like it was a slot car the way it turned in. Unbelievable difference. Tom

So Danny, how did the Caterham handle on Sunday? From your times, I suspect you were running on street tires. Tom

I don't know nuthin bout no Gamma whozits but it looks kinda yellow compared to a past Orange photo. I like the photo though. Tom

This site can provide you with some good starting points. http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=156943&pn=1&ps=15&c= Tom

Danny, do you have the adjustable spring perches on your car? Are you running front and rear anti sway bars? If so what size at the front? One of the things that it important in setting up the car is the front to back rake. I believe 15mm higher at the rear is the recommended ratio. What are your concerns about the current spring rates? The car is pretty well set up with the stock springs, especially if you're going to street it as well. IMO you don't need to play as much with the set up as you would on a normal street car. These things are basically race cars to begin with. I had my car cornerweighted and set up by George Alderman at Midatlantic Caterham in Del. And I know that Chip (Catracer) at GtClassics in Va. races Caterhams so I'm sure that they can provide good starting points for you. Tom

So shifter karts weren't fast enough for you?:smilielol5: You can fit alot more rubber than 7 inch on the caterham. Some of us run as much as 10 inch rims. As for spring rates, the stock springs are 150lbs up front and a variable rate spring in the rear. (i forget the exact numbers) No where as high as you might expect on typical autox cars. I think the next step up on the front is to 225lb springs but then you're going to have to start playing with the anti roll bars front and back. Do you have a wide track front end? That can be a good first step if you don't. As for power, I'm not a good driver but with close to 200hp, it's very easy to overdrive the car. I've driven a caterham with 135 hp and it much more controllable. Ask Jack Banha about the difference from his 100 hp to my 200. First time he drove my car he hit about 10 cones. :smilielol5: As for backspacing, If I recall correctly, I believe it's about 4.5-5 inches on the front and rear. I bought a set of Kodiak three piece rims that are nice and light. Nice to have another 7 in the Philly Region. Tom

This is an extremely well done Tutorial on how to change your oil. I highly recommend watching this as it is very detailed. Enjoy! Tom

Supersport, you may be right. After looking at the pics, it appears that most of the sideskin is new but the rear panel from the rear arch back is painted green. If new that should be also wrapped in the blue plastic or be bare aluminium. I also noted that the mastercylinder is not mounted which it usually is on new kits and I think in the list of parts still needed he listed a wiring harness, which is usually done. And from the parts layed out for the rear suspension etc, he's missing the half shafts. But on the other hand alot of the parts look brand new, including the ACB10 tires. Curious Tom

Now that looks like a real bargain! $20,500 including engine and gearbox. Even if his estimate on other parts needed is a little off, it still sounds good. I couldn't see the damage he referred to and therefore can't tell if it's significant or not. Tom

Wow a D type and a C type. If they are the real deal, then that's a cool several million right there. Not to mention the Cobra Daytona. I'd have them right up front though.:drool: Tom

Drew it looks like you could use some Salt, for the roads that is. :leaving: