mrmustang

Plan to bring our 65 Sunbeam Tiger, looking forward to seeing your car there. Website is up and running: EURO Auto Festival Not the most intuitive, but it works. Bill S.

He was here 12 hours ago

Is that a SV chassis I see? Bill S.

First, welcome to the madness, once you start driving, it's an addiction difficult to kick. As for your two basic questions: 1: The market is constantly changing at the whim of buyers and sellers, some have are generational, others, like the Cobra community, keep building more cars, just like Caterham. If you are looking at this as an investment, forget it, it's a toy, and nothing more and not an investment, even if you stick it in a bubble and place it in the middle of your livingroom, it's still going to depreciate. 2: The newer Caterham offerings, when well built, will need minimum maintenance, oil and fluids, lube the chassis, check tires and brakes, and away you go. If this is a new build, you will need to occasionally check nuts, bolts, suspension as the car does vibrate more than your typical daily driver. Enjoy your time behind the wheel, there is almost nothing else like it on the road today. Bill S.

Great write up......Those of us who have been consumed with vintage vehicles feel your pain, as well as the elation of the final fix, as frustrating and time consuming as it was. Bill S.

just shy of 2 hours each way for me. Bill S.

Heat wrap for the headers works great in a race only environment where you want cheap, easy, and will eventually replace the parts (a year or two), but leads to premature rust out of the headers as well. Better off with ceramic coating to get the same results, without the downside of wrapping. Bill S.

You missed 2 Is the car titled? How is the car titled? Bill S.

And here I thought we were going off the rail again like a few weeks ago. I think I'm offended by the lack of a true USA7's confrontational thread For the OP, perhaps it's time to switch to Decaf Bill S.

Contact the Florida DMV main office and ask, let them know what paperwork you already have in your possession. Bill S.

Are you using a broker for importation? If so, they should be able to guide you. If not read the following, then contact the Florida DMV directly, lot's of paperwork will be required: https://www.wcshipping.com/us-car-import To import a car to the United States, the US Customs and Border Protection requires the following documents: original bill of lading bill of sale Foreign registration or US title Letter of approval from the NHTSA EPA Form 3520-1 DOT Form HS-7 Let us know how it goes, might also want to start a new stand alone thread so others can learn from your experience. Bill S.

This gray pad (nothing courser) https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071748/ I also recommend a small sponge to use between your hand and the pad itself to keep from leaving "finger witness marks", and to allow the pad to move along the contours in an even and consistent manner. I do not recommend using simple green, as it will leave residue, you can use regular water, or a water and car wash additive mix for lubrication, the windex is for after care to remove finger prints, dust, dirt, bird excrement, etc. Bill S.

On an unpainted Kirkham 427SC (stock file shot, not the car I had) we used a brand new gray scotchbrite pad and a bottle of blue windex. It takes a while to get the hang of it to make the pattern match the manufacturers, but not that long if you have half a brain. Yet the finish will be less than you might want, more brushed than matte/satin. Bill S.

About $2,100 shipped to Grv, SC I see a lot of chassis damage that will require not only replacement, but a frame machine to deal with the torsional twist from the off road excursion that created this lime green beauties current condition. If I still had my bodyshop, I'd go for it, otherwise, makes for a nice parts car or wall art after stripping it of all usable parts. Bill S.

Start with Florida form TL-48 Follow the instructions within, it really is that easy in Florida. Now, with that said, there are additional ways to title your car in Florida, legally I might add. Go to one of the Cobra replica forums (the factoryfiveforum.com or clubcobra.com) and type in "Florida title" or "Florida registration" in their search fields. Pay attention to the dates of the posts and/or threads that come up, as I believe there were changes made to some items during Covid. Bill S.

Thanks for posting this, was fun to watch. Bill S.

Yoram, Sorry to hear about your fall and subsequent health issues, as we age, we just don't bounce back as quickly or as easily as we used to. Wishing you and yours a happy and healthy holiday season. Bill S.

I did, however, it's under contract, congratulations. Imagine if more details were offered, you might have had a number of people get into a bidding war on it. Bill

Suspension and brake details, engine and transmission details, an asking price? The more details, the better chance you have of finding a buyer. Finally, a location and exactly how the car is titled would also make your quest to sell easier.

Glad it was something simple and not a meltdown of the disk on the server. Bill S.

Given your fantastic attention to detail, I'm surprised there is no rubber "finish" grommet in the drilled hole for the wiring harness on the taillight install as shown in your last picture attached . Bill S.

John, I believe this has to do with cars you are purchasing, not cars that you already have titled and registered in your name in the states. Regardless, the OP should use the following contact information and converse directly with the powers that be: Transport Canada Motor Vehicle Safety Telephone: 1-800-333-0371 (toll-free), 1-613-998-8616 (Ottawa region) Email: mvs-sa@tc.gc.ca Bill S.

Typically, if it is a car you have owned longer than a few months to a year, there are waivers for importing/exporting across the Canadian border. You still may need to change minor items like marker, headlight, maybe even brake light lenses, but not much else. Bill S.

An oldie, but a goodie. Same applies today as it did in 2015. Bill S.