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Posted

I want to move my CSR in a truck that has a load height of 2ft 9in. I don't have the truck right now to give it a try. Any advice on getting a CSR over that lip into the truck? How long will I need loading ramps to avoid grounding the thing?

 

Wooden plank from home depot = long enough but strong enough? Steel ramp from Harbor Freight = strong enough but long enough?

 

Help!

Posted

I can't help making an obvious observation. However the car gets into the truck will need to be replicated at some point down the road to reverse the process.

 

( I can hear the groans now )

Posted

If you're doing the unconventional, go all out: can you lift the car into the truck with a sling? Just like putting a sailboat onto a trailer.

Posted

Raise the front of the truck on ramps therefore lowering the load height and angling the floor to match your load ramps. I use the straight HF ramps and love them. Russ

Posted

As Russ said, and:

  • Stop, once the front wheels are on the deck of the truck
  • Using a collection of 2x6's, build a ramp in *front* of the rear tires
  • Progressively raise the rear of the car with the above ramps, until the bellhousing is past the break-over point (about in-line with the rear bonnet latches)

 

Every situation is different, and it's all about going slow, stopping, and evaluating clearances. We have a collection of 1" thick horse stall mats, that are cut in strips about 12" wide. We layer these horse mats as necessary, across the threshold of trailers, to clear sump guards and bell housings. Since they're flexible and adhere to surfaces, there is less chance of launching a 2x6 through someone or something.

 

At times, you will feel like an an ancient Egyptian slave :-)

 

-Bruce

Posted

If you can somehow attach the ramps to the pickup's tailgate with some sort of hinge assembly and then join the two ramps together with a cross bar just high enough to fit a floor jack under, you could drive up the ramps, jack it up as high as the jack will go, place jack stands underneath the ramps, lower floor jack, place big honkin block of wood on floor jack and repeat. As long as the ramps are secured to the bed or tailgate securely and the cross bar is bolted to the ramps securely, it should be pretty secure, even though I would use a boat winch to pull the car in and out while I steered from NEXT to the car.

 

Tom

Posted

similar dilemma with a formula ford years ago

 

we pushed the car up the ramps backwards (heavy end first) until the first contact, then three of us lifted the front up and pushed it in

 

ok, so the front of a FFord is maybe 300#, but how many guys would it take to lift the back of a 7 if the fuel tank was empty?

Posted

I think it's a holdover from the gene pool that created the forerunner of these cars, the mindeset that lingers still...

Lotus....lots of trouble, usually serious.

So we are all destined to search for answers to problems of our own making?

Get a trailer? Na...too easy!

Posted

Just rent a car trailer, cheap and easy if your not going to make this a more than once in a while thing. Good rental yards have low ones that either articulate to a slope or come with LONG ramps that slide back under the trailer deck. If your going to be doing it often with the same truck (or similar) you can find on line (or have made to fit) "two part" ramps that either fold at a center joint of lock together to give you a long ramp that folds to half the length. Sorry to say that sometimes looking at doing it the "cheapest" way is often more expensive and time consuming than just doing it the best/easiest way.

Posted

Thanks everyone.

 

At the risk of stating the obvious, by buying / importing / building a superlight CSR260, I have clearly demonstrated that common sense is something I lack. And having burned $100k doing it, I also lack fiscal responsibility.

 

The thing I am mulling over the winter months is how to get more use out of the thing next year. I can rent a uhaul trailer, or buy my own, but you still have the tires / tools / fuel to move around in the SUV which is a drag. It's also a drag if you're going to trailer it to, say, Atlanta for a long weekend. If it rains it's not great on the open trailer. And leaving it in the car park of a hotel as you break the 800 mile journey is not great either.

 

So I was thinking of renting a truck and putting it in the back. Not possible to rent a truck designed for this purpose. Anyway, doesn't sound like a great idea. Back to the drawing board

Posted (edited)

Also at the risk of stating the obvious, you could buy/rent an enclosed trailer. Essentially a portable garage.

Edited by lucky dawg

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