Red Duck Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I want to move my CSR in a truck that has a load height of 2ft 9in. I don't have the truck right now to give it a try. Any advice on getting a CSR over that lip into the truck? How long will I need loading ramps to avoid grounding the thing? Wooden plank from home depot = long enough but strong enough? Steel ramp from Harbor Freight = strong enough but long enough? Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 I can't help making an obvious observation. However the car gets into the truck will need to be replicated at some point down the road to reverse the process. ( I can hear the groans now ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wemtd Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 If you're doing the unconventional, go all out: can you lift the car into the truck with a sling? Just like putting a sailboat onto a trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost7018 Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Raise the front of the truck on ramps therefore lowering the load height and angling the floor to match your load ramps. I use the straight HF ramps and love them. Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Nylon slings and the fork lift at your local lumber yard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BruceBe Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 As Russ said, and: Stop, once the front wheels are on the deck of the truck Using a collection of 2x6's, build a ramp in *front* of the rear tires Progressively raise the rear of the car with the above ramps, until the bellhousing is past the break-over point (about in-line with the rear bonnet latches) Every situation is different, and it's all about going slow, stopping, and evaluating clearances. We have a collection of 1" thick horse stall mats, that are cut in strips about 12" wide. We layer these horse mats as necessary, across the threshold of trailers, to clear sump guards and bell housings. Since they're flexible and adhere to surfaces, there is less chance of launching a 2x6 through someone or something. At times, you will feel like an an ancient Egyptian slave :-) -Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hettric Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 look for a berm near by you can back the truck up to + short ramps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucky dawg Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Would it work to use hi-lift jacks (http://www.hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/ any 4WD store will have them) to lift the back ends of the ramps until parallel with the deck, than drive straight on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 A forklift and a pallet with some 2x4s might be the quickest way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road SHO Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 If you can somehow attach the ramps to the pickup's tailgate with some sort of hinge assembly and then join the two ramps together with a cross bar just high enough to fit a floor jack under, you could drive up the ramps, jack it up as high as the jack will go, place jack stands underneath the ramps, lower floor jack, place big honkin block of wood on floor jack and repeat. As long as the ramps are secured to the bed or tailgate securely and the cross bar is bolted to the ramps securely, it should be pretty secure, even though I would use a boat winch to pull the car in and out while I steered from NEXT to the car. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wings Aviation Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Use your planks of wood just edge them with angle iron on both sides cut to the right length. Any metal shop will have the angle iron and will cut it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian7 Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 similar dilemma with a formula ford years ago we pushed the car up the ramps backwards (heavy end first) until the first contact, then three of us lifted the front up and pushed it in ok, so the front of a FFord is maybe 300#, but how many guys would it take to lift the back of a 7 if the fuel tank was empty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wemtd Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 This thread is beginning to remind me of this classic picture: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coffee break Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 This thread is beginning to remind me of this classic picture: '>http://legendsofracing.tumblr.com/post/98046810719/tony-harris-helping-stuart-lewis-evans-drive-down> What could go wrong? :rofl: :iamwithstupid: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 What could go wrong? :rofl: :iamwithstupid: Well . . . . . . :jester: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rikker Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) I hate to ask this, but is there a reason you do not just rent a trailer? Edited October 30, 2014 by rikker typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Hill Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I think it's a holdover from the gene pool that created the forerunner of these cars, the mindeset that lingers still... Lotus....lots of trouble, usually serious. So we are all destined to search for answers to problems of our own making? Get a trailer? Na...too easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimrankin Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Just rent a car trailer, cheap and easy if your not going to make this a more than once in a while thing. Good rental yards have low ones that either articulate to a slope or come with LONG ramps that slide back under the trailer deck. If your going to be doing it often with the same truck (or similar) you can find on line (or have made to fit) "two part" ramps that either fold at a center joint of lock together to give you a long ramp that folds to half the length. Sorry to say that sometimes looking at doing it the "cheapest" way is often more expensive and time consuming than just doing it the best/easiest way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Duck Posted November 2, 2014 Author Share Posted November 2, 2014 Thanks everyone. At the risk of stating the obvious, by buying / importing / building a superlight CSR260, I have clearly demonstrated that common sense is something I lack. And having burned $100k doing it, I also lack fiscal responsibility. The thing I am mulling over the winter months is how to get more use out of the thing next year. I can rent a uhaul trailer, or buy my own, but you still have the tires / tools / fuel to move around in the SUV which is a drag. It's also a drag if you're going to trailer it to, say, Atlanta for a long weekend. If it rains it's not great on the open trailer. And leaving it in the car park of a hotel as you break the 800 mile journey is not great either. So I was thinking of renting a truck and putting it in the back. Not possible to rent a truck designed for this purpose. Anyway, doesn't sound like a great idea. Back to the drawing board Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucky dawg Posted November 2, 2014 Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) Also at the risk of stating the obvious, you could buy/rent an enclosed trailer. Essentially a portable garage. Edited November 2, 2014 by lucky dawg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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