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Tipo 184


JeffersonRaley

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The regulator is a "bypass" type ,"normally closed" (to use an electrical term) without any fuel pressure. "Feed" from the pump maintains system pressure up to the regulator (valve with the vacuum port). Pressure after the valve is minimal depending on the pump capacity, return line restriction, and engine consumption at the moment.

 

The rail needs system pressure, so the "feed" from the pump connects to it. The short pipe from the regulator is the return. Both are typically 8mm-5/16" and use sae J30R9 rubber hose because the higher pressure capacity prevents a pinch/restriction in the return line from blowing a fuel hose.

 

The traditional "dead head" type regulators for carb applications are "normally open" and pinch off flow. 

 

For the brakes, I'd replace the proportioning valve with an adjustable valve near the master or driver seat in the rear line and fit a tee near the master for the front circuits.

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Thanks SO MUCH for that and makes sense -  and different to the response I got from the kit suppliers " Go to the Haynes Manual, maybe a Mazda Forum, but if you connect it the wrong way the engine won't run"!:classic_angry:   

Having owned a Lotus Esprit, those fuel pipes will be tight & double clamped:classic_biggrin: and on a U.K. facebook page (British Cars) a Westfield 7 owner uploaded pictures of WHAT WAS his car!

Echoed my thoughts on the brakes - they suggest leaving as is, but as the weight distribution is changed (close to 50/50) that didn't makes sense - when I built my JZR trike  (think you guys call then "reverse" Trikes) which was Twin Ford Cortina Discs in the front and single Moto-Guzzi disc on the rear, I did just that with a F/R balance valve within reach whilst driving - it was fun to pwr slide that thing:classic_tongue:

 

Thx Again

Mark

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On 9/6/2023 at 6:25 PM, Dickim said:

So on the brakes, mine has pipes 3 from the Master, on same circuit 1 to front, and 1 to a "balancer" that also has the 3rd - these two then becoming front and rear. Question is, is there a need for the balancer given the whole weight distribution is different so the "setting" of the balancer valve will be wrong. Are you guys doing a straight L & R  front split?

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Our US car was the same,  so we ran the brake lines the way they were stock. Will probably switch to a dual master cylinder race setup at some point. 

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On 9/6/2023 at 7:47 PM, Dickim said:

Hi Jefferson- a question for ANYBODY on here, or would love to ask in U.S Tipo site (Perth is the most isolated City in the World and feels like it at times🤣) Trying to identify which of the 2 fuel pipes is feed and return? (I didn't strip the donor!) Pic shows the 2 -  L & R - the right (front of motor) seems to terminate in the valve (2nd pic) itself at the end of the injector rail, and seems to have a "breather" pipe. The Left hand pipe seems to terminate somewhere behind it - thoughts guy's on which is FEED.

Going back to orig Tipo order they specified ANY MX5 NB And some of us bought the 6speed which CAN'T be used. They were unwilling to consider cancellation, but offered to source & strip a Donor. Just so happened my U.K. based brothers car had failed it's annual inspection due to rust, but in the family for 15yrs, so known history  - so they stripped & shipped with the kit,  but didn't label fuel lines....

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The doohickey in the bottom photo with the vacuum line going to it is the fuel pressure regulator. That will be on the return.

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  • 2 months later...
On 9/10/2023 at 6:11 PM, Dickim said:

Appreciated  - presume a Doohickey is same as a "thingy ma jig" 👍🤣

Pulled off the brake bias unit leaving 2 front and 1 rear outlets and will run direct, and as suggested MAYBE a rear limiter later.

Cheers and Thx Again

Mark 

In test driving ours the fronts lock up way before the rears.  But it for sure isn't going to set any lap records, so I probably won't mess with a bias adjuster.

 

We finished our build tonight.  Will be testing on the track tomorrow morning.  :)

 

20231124_192359.jpg

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41 minutes ago, Croc said:

 

And what was the result?  Really interested to hear how it went.

It went really well.  We had to replace the clutch master cylinder before we loaded it up in the morning.  The part was just old and I should have replaced it to begin with.  Otherwise the car ran great.  That's kind of surprising for its first outing, usually I find some issues.

 

Driving it is just as weird as you'd expect.  You are very exposed (like a Seven) and sit very high (unlike a Seven).  The bias-ply tires make a ton of noise with very little grip.  It is going to take a while to learn how to drive this thing.  It's a lot of fun though.  I think the lap times will end up being similar to a spec Miata.  We have a lot less weight, but also a lot less tire.

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1 hour ago, JeffersonRaley said:

  I think the lap times will end up being similar to a spec Miata. 

 

A rather stunning comment to be honest.  A Miata is quite a quick weapon for the hp.  I suspect the handling of the Tipo will come down to managing slip angles while rotating and applying power.  Not that dissimilar to my 65 Mustang on bias ply tires.  Enormously satisfying when you get it working together. 

 

Great to hear it went well!  Hopefully you stick an action cam on it one day on track - I would love to see the fun. 

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I second the motion for a video.  There should be bystanders with photos to share with you (us).  Fun concept.  Totally agree with your comment about learning to drive it.  That's how I felt the first time I autocrossed the 7.  High  cg, skinny tires, leather helmet...    

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11 hours ago, JeffersonRaley said:

It went really well.  We had to replace the clutch master cylinder before we loaded it up in the morning.

No surprise.  Miata clutch master cylinders tended to need replacement.  Fortunately, I found mine cheap and easy to replace.  I found that I didn't need to bleed it.  Simply filled the reservoir and pumped the clutch pedal for several minutes and it bled itself.

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The comment on having to learn the car is a good one which made me stop to think.  I rotate daily drivers from different eras and have made a habit of deliberately switching and dialing in techniques to suit the car of the moment.   But mostly this means selecting between a car you can drive on the nose which rewards momentum, or short wheelbase, peppy, and darty, or modern over-competence which can't be really exercised within the the extended limits of the law.  But tall with modest power and even more modest grip would be an all new experience.  I think I would start by dusting off Piero Taruffi's The Technique of Motor Racing for a refresher.

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