My 1995 Caterham S3 X-Flow Emotional Support Vehicle "Beater" refresh and other journeys down the rabbit hole

[7Westfield]

I wouldn't bother welding the spacer to the mount

Just a 1/4" aluminum plate spacer, and blue loctite on the bolts

[wdb]

6 hours ago, 7Westfield said:

I wouldn't bother welding the spacer to the mount

Just a 1/4" aluminum plate spacer, and blue loctite on the bolts

 

I was thinking the same thing; it just needs to be big enough to cover the engine block mounting surfaces. Although having something welded on would ease installation a bit, it really isn't that hard to get at so loose parts would be doable.

 

[MV8]

You might check to see if the crank is centered in the chassis (affects lateral ujoint angle). It could be the opposite side needs the shim or it should be split. Longer bolts. No need for loctite.

 

Also sent you a pm a few days ago. Popup blocker?

[IamScotticus]

On 11/14/2024 at 9:39 AM, wdb said:

Is there anything to be gained by installing the stanchions and the glass separately?

I tried an install once by attaching the stanchions loosely to the scuttle first,  but found managing the balance of the screen to be awkward.  I didn't use the tape to support it then.  If I were taller with enough reach to insert the top screen screws on both sides from one side of the car, while holding the screen upright with the other hand, I suppose it's doable.  But I have little T-Rex arms.

Edited November 16, 2024 by IamScotticus

[IamScotticus]

On 11/14/2024 at 9:53 AM, 7Westfield said:

I wouldn't bother welding the spacer to the mount

Just a 1/4" aluminum plate spacer, and blue loctite on the bolts

But the non-schooled, non-degreed, no-experience engineer in me says that will stress the bolts because the plate is still loose, regardless of the tightening. It would be like spacing it out with washers.

[IamScotticus]

10 hours ago, MV8 said:

You might check to see if the crank is centered in the chassis

Did that. The original mounting is perfect. Within 1/64 by the centreline on the bellhousing.  I was amazed.  The two mounts, the Right side original and DS mount, placed flat in the flanges, clearly show the DS is .25" short.  I'll look for the PM.  My notifications are strange.  I don't get notifications for my own build thread.

Edited November 15, 2024 by IamScotticus

[wdb]

On 11/14/2024 at 10:39 AM, wdb said:

I'll get a picture of my oil pump vis-a-vis the engine mount. I don't recall it being a tight fit there. The oil line that arcs over it, up and back to the filter, was a bit of trick though. The hose ends are not fixed; they have a built-in swivel joint. I added a wee bit of length to the hose to encourage it to swivel upwards enough to clear the mount. (That was the hose I ended up making twice.) 

 

Here you go. Yep it's tight, probably 1/3" in there. But no movement of one relative to the other, so, enough. Second pic is of the oil line that needs to clear the same mount in my case. It's the oil pump high pressure inlet so if your tank is behind the pump you will likely have to deal with the same thing.

 

 

[JohnCh]

31 minutes ago, IamScotticus said:

My notifications are strange.  I don't get notifications for my own build thread.

 

According to the admin panel, you don't have email notifications turned on, just the notification list (bell at the top of the screen).  See the help guide below on changing those settings.  Also, it's a good idea to check the email address you have associated with your account to confirm it's still current (https://usa7s.net/ips/settings/).  If you are receiving notification list reminders for everything except your own threads, let me know and I'll do a forced reset from the admin panel.

 

 

[IamScotticus]

22 minutes ago, JohnCh said:

 

According to the admin panel, you don't have email notifications turned on, just the notification list (bell at the top of the screen).  See the help guide below on changing those settings.  Also, it's a good idea to check the email address you have associated with your account to confirm it's still current (https://usa7s.net/ips/settings/).  If you are receiving notification list reminders for everything except your own threads, let me know and I'll do a forced reset from the admin panel.

 

 

Don't want any Emails.  I refer only to the forum notifications.

[JohnCh]

Logs show a notification for my message above appeared in your notification list.  If they stop showing up again, send me a PM and I will investigate further.

[panamericano]

Maybe a Birkin is just built better?  I never had any problem switching windshield/Brooklands.  At least with some one to hold the screen for a few minutes.  Never had to use a drift or anything special.  

[IamScotticus]

On 11/14/2024 at 9:39 AM, wdb said:

If all that is involved just to remove and install it, ugh

I suppose the difficulty level will vary by experience levels and skills and abilities.   The main reason I over-do is to prevent damage to the car, which I've already done. 

Tape and paper.  You can get away with a lot of mistakes if your area is well protected.

A good example is the framework.  Put some towels or foam pipe insulation on those tubes when wrenching around them to avoid nicking the powder coat.  

Did I mention I hate powder coat?

Edited November 16, 2024 by IamScotticus

[IamScotticus]

Interesting...

I have been studying the manifold vs. port vac advance debate,  watching all the popular Expert Tubers on it.  Several of the creators mention the changeover from manifold to (carb) port is in response to new emissions regs, getting the cars to run hotter, burn carbons later in the burn cycle with no idle advance, yadda yadda.  

I have been looking for evidence of manifold or port vac connections in my various Cortina and Escort tech books, to see how they were hooking them up then, but the closest guidance I can find I'd a mention of disconnecting and plugging the port for the static timing setting.  Something I knew from high school auto class.

 

Anyway,  we're talking Weber 23 DFM and 32/36 DG*.  The 32/36 has a vac port.  The 32 DFM does not.  Both of my Cortina and Escort Manifolds have the 1/4 BSP tap that can be used for a port.

 

Here's what I intended to share.

Going through my english Autodata Cortina 2 manual, I noticed how the recommended idle RPMs increased:

1966-7  580-620 rpm

1968  700-740 rpm

1969  700-740 rpm

1970  830-870 rpm

The same engine!

[IamScotticus]

I'd like to put this out for considering by everyone, not pointed at anyone. No forum etiquette here..🫣

 

A 7 is a very fun car to drive with a <100hp engine, especially if kept light and the wheel widths within 4"-5".  The live axle is perfect for this level of power and if not loaded with extra weight, as in a brace, is lighter than a de Dion suspension, and definitely the Standard 10 (I don't know the English axle weight).

A good set of dampers, brake proportioning and sway bar can do wonders.

 

Why push these axles to their limits?  Why wear them out or risk breakage?  Anyone wanting more power and grip should get a deDion car; there are plenty around and parts are still available.

 

To back up my opinion,  when I bought my 7, it came with a Zetec.  I got rid of it and put in a Xflow partly because I had a live axle. But mostly because I love the old tech which doesn't need a laptop to dial in.  

 

Why is this reasoning important?  It's to realize that a 7 is a small, light, and adorable car.  We get into them for two reasons: to have a fun spirited blat and to get attention. Yes, it's very narcissistic.  Also, ths car represents an important part of automobile history.  The 7 is a 1%er car.  Therefore, driving it, and keeping it within its limitations is very prudent to keep the 7 and you from damage.

 

A live axle 7 should be kept under 100hp.  You will enjoy it and it will last. And it probably doesn't require a brace.

[pethier]

14 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

I'd like to put this out for considering by everyone, not pointed at anyone. No forum etiquette here..🫣

 

A 7 is a very fun car to drive with a <100hp engine, especially if kept light and the wheel widths within 4"-5".  The live axle is perfect for this level of power and if not loaded with extra weight, as in a brace, is lighter than a de Dion suspension, and definitely the Standard 10 (I don't know the English axle weight).

A good set of dampers, brake proportioning and sway bar can do wonders.

 

Why push these axles to their limits?  Why wear them out or risk breakage?  Anyone wanting more power and grip should get a deDion car; there are plenty around and parts are still available.

 

To back up my opinion,  when I bought my 7, it came with a Zetec.  I got rid of it and put in a Xflow partly because I had a live axle. But mostly because I love the old tech which doesn't need a laptop to dial in.  

 

Why is this reasoning important?  It's to realize that a 7 is a small, light, and adorable car.  We get into them for two reasons: to have a fun spirited blat and to get attention. Yes, it's very narcissistic.  Also, ths car represents an important part of automobile history.  The 7 is a 1%er car.  Therefore, driving it, and keeping it within its limitations is very prudent to keep the 7 and you from damage.

 

A live axle 7 should be kept under 100hp.  You will enjoy it and it will last. And it probably doesn't require a brace.

When I had a live-axle 1979, it was not about the power, it was about the cornering.  I'm an autocross freak.  Now that I see the deDion setup, I see it is much more robust for lateral location.  I intend to put my Zetec in and I think the setup is up to it.  I don't expect to put huge wheels on it.  The 6.5 x 15 Prisoner wheels should do fine, though I did like the 7 x 15 Panasport wheels I had for my 1979 car.