mccasksl Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 What is the collective wisdom of Seven owners on freeing frozen threaded rod ends in various suspension bits? My record is very poor: 75% on rear Watts Linkage on a 2009 S3 and 50% on front inboard suspension push rods and rear track rods on a 2005 CSR. It appears literally everything was assembled dry on these two cars and no amount of Liquid Wrench / PB Blaster or concentrated heat are able to keep the rod ends from shearing off leaving a threaded portion in the fabricated tube. Heat also quickly destroys any rod end lubrication free PTFE insert or liner but I want to have complete alignment adjustment for dialing in the suspension. To date, while they are still available, replacement watts links, push rods, track rods and rod ends are less expensive than machine shop time to drill out and re-tap the fabricated tubes, if you can find a suitable machine shop. I was always amazed at what the serious dual sport / off road motorcycle folks would do, that of taking delivery of a brand-new bike from KTM and the like and proceeding to completely dissemble, inspect, and reassemble the bike using the proper lubricants, anti-seize, and torque settings. Both the S3 and CSR are quickly heading in that direction. Many thanks in advance for any words of wisdom or successful experiences you care to share. Cheers! Steve Austin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlB Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 You are using the same technics I typically use with one exception. When I get the part hot, I have found using candle wax helpful. Hope it works for you. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 (edited) Technique is very important. With no more info than you've provided, I would put the link in a bench vice between soft material or rags to hold it, use a 12 inch adjustable set to the width of the eye body, wrap a wet rag around the rod end shank protruding from the tube, then heat with a propane torch the tube a couple inches away from the shank, moving the torch around the tube for even heating for a minute, then slip the wrench over the eye and apply light pressure while continuing to heat the same area. If that did not work, I'd use a penetrant and try rotating it deeper into the tube instead of out initially, then back out. If it still doesn't work, I would use a gas welding torch careful not to over heat the tube but I think a propane torch could do it if you apply it long enough. Don't compensate for too little heat by applying extra pressure to the rod end. Enough heat and it will let go. Keep the rag wet to keep from softening the rod end shank so it snaps off. Chase the threads in the tube. You might take it to a machine shop before breaking off anything. Edited February 6 by MV8 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toldfield Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Try Kroil or Silikroil from Kano Labs. It has never failed me. Squirt it, tap it a few times, and let it sit for a while. tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inchoate Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 +1 for Kroil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marek Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 The disassembly-on-arrival practice is typical across professional motorsports. Why take chances. There was a certain popular British 90s FF constructor of whom was said they only assembled the cars for ease of shipment and not actual use. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdb Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 I've heard good things about Kroil as well from people whose opinions I value although I have not tried it myself. I've had a bit of luck recently with a freezing product called CRC Freeze Off. They also make a more expensive product which I haven't had a go at yet. It takes a bit of technique but it's a darned sight safer than shooting torches hither and thither. Over the weekend I watched someone rap a recalcitrant transmission drain plug 3-4 times with a brass mallet. It worked a treat. The last two methods both have the same underlying intent, namely to 'shock' the components in such a way as to interrupt whatever gunk has initiated their love fest with one another. (Yes heat does that too.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 I'd never recommend Hither or Thither. I hardly know those guys. If they get a hold of an aersol, the paint may lift and fall off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pethier Posted September 21 Share Posted September 21 I used Kroil and an 1100-degree-F heat gun to free corroded steel slider blocks on a Caterham adjustable 1/2" sway bar. I think a heat gun and the candle-wax trick might work for your Heim-joint problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted October 2 Share Posted October 2 Not a new issue to anyone who owns a steel boat. It's a graduated system. First, penetrant overnight (I use Knock'er Loose), Then slightly tighten before trying to loosen, with a 1/4" impact driver being a helpful tool. Then a torque wrench so you don't shear that sucker, then propane-level heat to burn off sticky stuff, then oxy/acetylene level heat to a dull red. I haven't met one that didn't yield by then. Just be careful that you don't heat it too much - you don't want to melt it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Keith-Lucas Posted October 2 Share Posted October 2 Oh. Threaded stud. Tighten one nut against another nut at the top, or weld one on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted October 6 Share Posted October 6 Yea, heat and penetrant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now