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Zetec oil filter recommendations


Slonie

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Hi folks,

 

I considered putting this in the general Zetec thread but I thought it might be better to be its own thread if people have a lot to say in response.

 

I'm looking for people's ideas on oil filters for Zetec 7s. At least for LHD cars we don't have as much of an issue with steering column interference, but the positioning of the filter is still fairly close to a chassis member so we can't go super long either.

 

Although 20+ years ago there was another part number indicated for Zetecs, I believe the currently-available OEM Ford filter that's still available is the FL-400-S. I bought one to try out. Unfortunately, it doesn't quite fit my LHD S3 Super 7. The filter diameter and length would be fine if it was fully threaded in, but I just can't quite get a straight on approach to begin threading it in without interfering with a chassis member. So that one's out.

 

When I bought my car, it had a WIX 51394 installed. This filter is quite small and has no problem fitting. It also has a bypass valve and an anti-drainback valve and is purportedly a well-constructed filter (source: a random person at the most famous oil forum on the internet). The downsides are that it is smaller than it could be, and that the diameter of the gasket (2.5 inch according to Oreilly) is smaller than it should be as well, resulting in part of the gasket overhanging the inside of the flange. This is a photo of the filter I removed from the car, showing a step-shaped deformation in the gasket. As far as I know, it didn't actually leak.

 

In any case, I received a recommendation from Josh at RMC for the WIX WL7098 as the recommended filter for this application. The gasket diameter is 2.75 inches so I believe it's correct for the Zetec flange inches bigger so it should be good there, and the overall length looks like it will fit. The only thing giving me pause about that one is that it doesn't appear to have a bypass or anti drainback valve. I also had to special order it, and did just so I could see it in person.

 

In the meantime, I've installed another WIX 51394 so I could get back on the road, but I'd love to know what other people think or which filters they've had success with.

filters.png

wix51394filtergasket.png

wixWL7098.png

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I had an offline discussion about this about a year ago. I found that a wix 51348 is a suitable replacement for an FL400S that is about 3.5 inches long but otherwise the same filter (8-11psi bypass, anti-drain valve, full flow, etc). A chrome version is available from wix as this filter is used on some harley motorcycles, as well as many late model Toyota, Lexus, Dodge, Jeep, etc.

 

51394 also has an 8-11psi bypass and anti-drain valve and a smaller filter typically should be replaced at shorter intervals than the standard filter, even if the oil is not due to be changed. The filter bypass keeps the filter from over-pressurizing/ballooning but the block bypass may bypass the filter when the engine is cold or thicker oils are used or higher volume and pressure pumps, etc . Race engine builders in general often block the filter bypass but use stronger pump drives and restraint in operation during warm up.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

I can't remember the exact filter I used on my Zetec (ZX1, 95-97 model year) powered Birkin but I remember it being the same OD as the FL1A but shorter. I think it might have been the FL300? I know the FL400 fit as well, but I wanted the extra capacity of the bigger OD filter. 

 

Edit: I think I used the K&N HP-2004 as well which is a cross reference to the FL300. The Wix equivalent should be a 51068. This is all assuming you have the same available space as I did in my Birkin.

Edited by 11Budlite
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Look at the Wix 51516 filter. It has the 2.75 Dia sealing ring and the filter is almost 5" long. I've used this longer filter on my last three Ford trucks. 

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51516 is equiv to the 400s which is too long to start on to the threads. I would not run sl7098 for the reasons you mentioned. 51068 is a better choice than 51348 if it is short enough to start on the threads. It should have more filter media surface area for a longer life between oil changes.

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I've always used a NAPA gold 1348 on my Zetec.  Same as the WIX 51348.  My car has the larger Raceline wet sump.

 

Jim

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There's a lot of chatter in the Porsche M9x engine realm about oil filter quality and manufacturing location. Specifically Wix and NAPA Gold as these have go-to filters for that bunch for a long time. The short version is that there are filters coming out of China now that used to be US made, and there have been quality issues with them. I'd recommend trying to find US made filters.

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On 5/29/2024 at 11:26 PM, MV8 said:

I had an offline discussion about this about a year ago. I found that a wix 51348 is a suitable replacement for an FL400S that is about 3.5 inches long but otherwise the same filter (8-11psi bypass, anti-drain valve, full flow, etc). A chrome version is available from wix as this filter is used on some harley motorcycles, as well as many late model Toyota, Lexus, Dodge, Jeep, etc.

 

51394 also has an 8-11psi bypass and anti-drain valve and a smaller filter typically should be replaced at shorter intervals than the standard filter, even if the oil is not due to be changed. The filter bypass keeps the filter from over-pressurizing/ballooning but the block bypass may bypass the filter when the engine is cold or thicker oils are used or higher volume and pressure pumps, etc . Race engine builders in general often block the filter bypass but use stronger pump drives and restraint in operation during warm up.

 

 

Thank you so much for this -- I'll almost certainly pick up a 51348 for next time.

 

On 5/30/2024 at 4:34 AM, MV8 said:

51516 is equiv to the 400s which is too long to start on to the threads. I would not run sl7098 for the reasons you mentioned. 51068 is a better choice than 51348 if it is short enough to start on the threads. It should have more filter media surface area for a longer life between oil changes.

 

I'm thinking the recommendation I received from the engine builder (via Josh) is probably due to your note about race engine builders bypassing the filter bypass. I do not know if I have an uprated oil pump though, so I wouldn't count on it. I'm running 5w30 Mobil1 and it doesn't get too cold here so that's a plus.

 

Thanks also to everyone else for the insight, this is a great community.

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Posted (edited)

Oh, and if I can remember to try a 51068 at next change, I will. If it’s at all shorter than the Ford filter, there’s a chance it will fit. 
 

2 hours ago, glenntwincam said:

I have always used wix 51348xp engine is zetec svt

 

I guess this as good a time as any to ask for opinions on XP vs regular when it comes to Wix filters. The cost increase is negligible (a few dollars), as long as there’s no hidden disadvantage, I’ll go with the XP next time too. 

 

Edit: I did also find some Fiesta ST folks swapping to the FL-400S from their shorter stock filter (FL-910S), which might make the latter a possible OEM choice for us (as it’s apparently a shortened 400, though the relief valve PSI is different… ) link here . But based on the insight here, the WIX seems to be the way to go. 

Edited by Slonie
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  • 2 weeks later...

I am a fan of synthetic media.  Imagine a screen door made with 1-inch cables.  The holes are small enough to keep the flyes out, but there are not as many holes due to the size of the cables.  Synthetic filters are kind of the opposite.  The strands are thinner, so they can get more filtration in the same size can.

 

Several years ago I used a filter cutter to cut the cans off filters from my Toyota MR2 Spider.  There was a Fram Tough Guard, Mobil 1, and a Purolator Pure 1 filter.  I did not attempt to differentiate the pore size in the media, but the Pure 1 filter claimed to have synthetic media and had twice as many pleats as the other two.  I have used Pure 1 filters ever since.

 

By the way, I have cut open quite a few filters.  I have seen sludge after the first change in a used car, small amounts of metal from break-in, but never anything in a filter from a healthy engine.

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/29/2024 at 11:26 PM, MV8 said:

Race engine builders in general often block the filter bypass but use stronger pump drives and restraint in operation during warm up.

I found this cut apart filter picture that you may find amusing.  It is from a pulling tractor where the filter has no bypass and the owner nailed his block bypass shut. 

oinfilter.thumb.jpg.fb9d5da50b85bcfd51810fad91b0c9ac.jpg

 

Edited by JohnCh
Converted to jpeg to save people from having to download
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