Jump to content

Cigarette lighter: Three birds with one stone.


pethier

Recommended Posts

1. My iPhone battery tends to not last the day when I am out.

 

2. Sometimes at an autocross, I'd like to use my little air compressor.

 

3. I'd like to use a battery tender in the garage without removing the bonnet.

 

I don't smoke, but I'm putting in a cigarette lighter.

 

I had been thinking already about the first two birds, and then I remembered that they all were similar to the situation with my Cayman.  They had been resolved when I bought a used genuine Porsche cigarette-lighter charger for a decidedly-non-Porsche price.  The Cayman, of course, has two such ports from the factory.

 

All need to do is drill a 7/8" hole in the dash in an area where the charging cord does not interfere with gear changes, and a smaller hole in the firewall for a couple of wires directly from the battery.  This will be a short run.  A bit of wire, a grommet, an inline fuse, and I will have a circuit independent of my cutoff switch.

 

I hope I remember to take pictures.  

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sort of thinking about doing exactly the same thing.  I've started tuning using an Innovate Motorsports LM-2 and it's working well for idle mixture but I'd sort of like to do some road tuning as well.  A 12v outlet in the cockpit would make that a lot more convenient.  What are you thinking about for the outlet?  I've yet to find something that I like.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, inchoate said:

I'm sort of thinking about doing exactly the same thing.  I've started tuning using an Innovate Motorsports LM-2 and it's working well for idle mixture but I'd sort of like to do some road tuning as well.  A 12v outlet in the cockpit would make that a lot more convenient.  What are you thinking about for the outlet?  I've yet to find something that I like.

Disregard

 

Edited by pethier
photo method did not work
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, CBuff said:

I was thinking of something like this over the winter. 
 

image.thumb.jpeg.eca72ccc6f25f0d190ca96b05839147c.jpeg

 

I have that 12v attachment metal part and for the life of me cannot figure out how to make it attach. Maybe early years dash setup was slightly different of the fuse box has different shape?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, inchoate said:

I'm sort of thinking about doing exactly the same thing.  I've started tuning using an Innovate Motorsports LM-2 and it's working well for idle mixture but I'd sort of like to do some road tuning as well.  A 12v outlet in the cockpit would make that a lot more convenient.  What are you thinking about for the outlet?  I've yet to find something that I like.

Just a plain old 12v port from AutoZone. 

 

Drill or punch a 7/8" hole through the dash. Insert the core.  Reach forward of the dash and screw on the outer shell.  Put a negative wire with a LuCar female on the outer shell.  Put a positive wire with a LuCar female on the inner core. Run the wires through a rubber grommet in the firewall to the battery (don't forget a fuse on the positive side) and Bob's your uncle.

 

IMG_6628 12v port

 

IMG_6627 12v port

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not planning on fishing around under the dash for the port.  The choke, the ignition, and the heater control are quite enough, thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ditched the dash cigarette lighter on my Seven (in part because it was poorly wired) for an Anderson Powerpole-terminated direct connection to the battery.  A variety of sizes are available; but I am using the 7.5A version which is sufficient for any reasonable battery tender.  Their PanelPole1 makes for a nice, water tight, dash mount.  USB ports are also available.

 

My connection is under the dash.  In place of the cigarette lighter I mounted an inexpensive digital voltage meter (at the time I lacked confidence in the alternator - since resolved).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Port is mounted.

 

There is an existing 3/4" hole dead-center on the dash, below two gauges.  Nope.  Too small, too low for the unit to clear the steel tube at the bottom of the dash. Just put back the rubber plug.

 

Left of that pair of gauges is a pair of rocker switches.  The bottoms of these switches are higher than the bottoms of the gauges.  Bottom tube plus the aluminum/vinyl dash skin that wraps under it is 1.100".  By coincidence, that is the the diameter of the outer shell of the power port.  Radius of power port is therefore 0.550".  

 

0.550" + 1.100" = 1.650"

 

Round up to 1.750".  Set my Starrett angle-head to 90 degrees.  Pop in a rule and set it to 1.750" with my caliper.  Scribe a short horizontal line roughly directly-under the gap between the rocker switches.  

 

The depth gauge on my caliper is just a little narrower than half the distance between the rocker switches.  I pressed this gauge against the left edge of the right switch and scribed a line where the opposite edge of the guide crossed the horizontal scribe.  Reversed the procedure for the other switch.  The two vertical scribes were very close together.  I drilled a tiny hole between the two vertical scribes and directly on the horizontal scribe.  Followed that up with a 1/4" drill hole.

 

Grabbed a conventional 7/8" hole saw and worked it by hand to score the vinyl.  Probably didn't need to do that, but taking no chances.  I happen to have a five-carbide-tooth 7/8" hole saw designed for trepanning metal.  I had used that when mounting the ports for my trailer camera.  Chucked it in a drill motor and started making aluminum chips all over my lap and inside the car. 

 

Installed the inner core and rubber plug in the hole, then threaded on the outer shell.  Did a little back-and-forth to get the text on the rubber plug right-side-up and to get the male spade for the ground on the bottom of the shell.

 

Shop-Vaced the aluminum chips off me.  Shop-Vaced the aluminum chips (and the usual small stones) out of the footwell and off of the seat.

 

It looks like I will have lots of clearance from the phone cable while practicing my left-hand shifting.

 

No pix yet.  I forgot to bring my phone with me.  My second daughter is worried that I will get stuck in the car.  No problem.  I have the shop land-line cordless...

 

Next stage:  Run wires from battery to power port, using  grommet and an inline fuse.  This is not a racecar, so having the power port independent of the external shutoff is not an issue.  Autocross rules don't care if you have an external shutoff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've wanted to do this,  but with a real cigarette lighter.

I wanted people to think someone could smoke underway in a 7.

Just wait, someone will say they do, 😄

Yea, #6 can do that.

Edited by IamScotticus
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought the cigarette lighter socket I installed at West Marine but I don't see it on their website now.  Aircraft Spruce has some, one of which is stupidly expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, toldfield said:

I bought the cigarette lighter socket I installed at West Marine but I don't see it on their website now.  Aircraft Spruce has some, one of which is stupidly expensive.

Just go AutoZone and spend six bucks. /s

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_6633 Power port open

 

IMG_6632 Power port closed

 

Port is comfortably left of the centerline so my iPhone cable will be well-clear of my left arm.

IMG_6646 Raw material

I have a bunch of battery minders lying around. Each of them came with both a pair of clamps and a pair of terminal rings.  The rings will be used as-is.  As for the clamps, first I labeled the wire for the black clamp POS POS POS.  Then I labeled the wire for the red clamp NEG NEG NEG.  No, that's not wrong.  Then I cut off the clamps.

 

IMG_6634 The complete power port harness

Here is the complete wiring harness for the project.  The rings will get stuffed one at a time through a grommet in the firewall.  Figured out yet why the labeling is not wrong?

 

IMG_6643 Well-dressed power port

A well-dressed harness.  The connector and its grommet is at the lower left. The port is rated at 7 amps.  Fuses come as 7.5 amps.  I don't have one anyway, so I put in a 5-amp fuse.  It has tested OK for my air compressor.  I will address that loose wire in another thread, as it has nothing to do with this project.

 

 

IMG_6645 Between the heater and the horns

In the engine room, I tied the wires to the plastic air horn to stop them playing with the steel horn brackets bolted to the heater box.

 

Before I connected the rings to the battery, I confirmed the polarity with a voltmeter and my Porsche charger.  See, I told you those labels were not wrong. ;) 

Edited by pethier
Adjusted exposure on last photo.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know I’m late to this party but I thought I’d share what the Original Owner of my car had done about electrical outlets. He sent a three page letter of instructions for changes, additions and corrections to George Alderman et al. He wanted the assembly people to add, fix or change things which included the following:

Auxiliary Electrical Outlets. Please mount (2) outlets on the inside of the firewall on the passenger side to accept detector and phone.

These are up against the box between the heater vents and the fuse panel. I find them very easy to use whether I plug in an old style cigarette adapter, (like on my old Garmin) or one of the new style USB adapters to charge phones.

110A7390-Edit-56800.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...