JohnCh

I can vouch for that That looks like a Pipercross air filter. The ITG is similar, but the bottom of the air filter attaches differently and doesn't have the two tabs that go through slots in the backing plate. Do you know what the car is running for an ECU? What about Throttle Bodies, or does that picture above mean you have the Webcon Alpha engine setup? -John

I've always had good luck with Magnecor on my cars, including my old Crossflow-powered Westfield. They have standard setups available for most engines, but are also happy to adjust lengths and boots to accommodate a specific need. -John

I just visited WSCC and see you already started a thread there, but they got a picture and we didn't! Granted it's just a photo of a giant box in a truck, but still... -John

Hi Dan, Congrats on the arrival! Westfields are pretty rare in North America compared to the UK so not sure we have any active members with the Miata-based car, but there are a few of us with the standard Westfield who might be able to help with aspects along the way. Definitely start a build thread. Also, the WSCC forum (Westfield Club in the UK) is huge, with a lot of helpful folks, so if aren't a member there, I suggest joining. Cheers, John

Thanks Andy, I appreciate the offer, but given the differences it's may not be worth your effort. I would still need to measure specific reference points on a new build to see how your engine placement differs so I could adjust the air filter backing plate to bonnet cut out measurements. If I'm doing that, it's not much more effort to run string from scuttle to nosecone to mimic the bonnet location and take measurements from the head to the strings. If no one else has any information, I may try that approach ( @Pokeywarning: there may be an incoming request to stop by your garage again with a tape measure). If that is still inconclusive or proves too difficult given the location of the stock 420R intake, then I'll take you up on your kind offer and let you know which reference points are most helpful. Thanks, John

@The Fuselage great story! If you decide to sell, I'm sure it would quickly find a good home, but perhaps you should think about it for another year. Just to be certain -John

Thanks, I've been watching that thread, but no one is actually providing data except for the Caterham RB setup which is a lot shorter than the Jenveys. I have more confidence in this group to actually answer the question -John

Is anyone running Jenvey TBs on a Duratec in an SV without a hole in the bonnet? If so, how long are the air horns in your setup and how deep is the filter? Given I'll be running a 620R nosecone, the intercooler ducting can be repurposed as a cold air feed for an under bonnet air filter, so I may opt to initially go that route and forgo cutting the bonnet until after I can compare air horn lengths on the dyno. However, I have no idea what will actually fit, or if something appropriately sized is even available for the 50mm TBs (apparently options are limited for the bigger Jenveys.) Thanks, John

-John

The software upgrade has completed and everything has re-indexed. If you see any new issues, please start a thread in the Issues & Help forum. Thanks, John

Duplicating the announcement in red at the top of the forum for those who miss it. I need to take the forum offline today at noon PT to perform a major upgrade to the software. Based on how things went in test, it should be back up by 12:30pm. However, sh*t happens, so keep your fingers crossed. The upgrades are almost exclusively to the back end. Therefore don't expect any changes to functionality or look and feel. If work gets in the way, I'll need to reschedule this upgrade and will update both this thread and the announcement at the top of the forum. -John

I'm not sure how this is wired, but if the relay is upstream of the the inertia switch, have you confirmed it is getting power and switching correctly? -John

Hopefully this weekend won't be the last nice one in the area before winter fully kicks in. Assuming weather cooperates, do you have an eta for when you can take your first proper drive? -John

Wow, +80hp from 4400rpm to 5400rpm. That should make it entertaining. -John

Quite a different aero setup than before! Is there a noticeable difference between the two? -John

According to the estimate, the dyno tuning charge is only $1200 so just a couple hundred above your high number. Given they are starting from scratch, $1200 is reasonable in the Seattle area, particularly if they are tuning for drivability. Why do they have a line item for a MAP sensor but not a TPS? Aren't you still running the ITBs? -John

I checked the route book from that leg of the USA2005 tour to confirm my deja vu feeling from the photo. It's the same hotel. -John

I'm looking forward to reading the rest of this adventure (and hopefully seeing more photos of the Giulia Super). It sounds like a great trip. BTW the photo of the hotel in Cambria looked really familiar; it turns out it's the same hotel we used for the USA2005 tour. Small world! -John

They are often referred to as exploding rivets. If you do a search on that term a number of sources come up. Here is one: https://bryke.com/rivets/exploding-rivets/ -John

Hi JT, make sure you follow this thread. It's updated each weekend with cars for sale in Canada and the US: -John

That is definitely @Alaskossie. I have a photo of him standing next to his car wearing that same hat taken on our Monterey tour in 2010. Thanks for sharing! -John

Great idea, and although I have no knowledge to share, I want to plant a seed that this thread could form the basis for an addition to the Articles section of the forum. -John

The drain/fill plug can be a PITA to access depending on the car. It's located on the driver's side of the transmission case (LHD car)with very little clearance to the transmission tunnel and chassis tubes. Check out the Transmission downloads section of the forum here. Lots of good articles on the Type-9 that should help. One suggestion is to thoroughly clean the trans/bellhousing/block area to remove all traces of the leaks, then identify the point(s) of origin. Oil has a tendency to wick away from the leak point, or be blown around while driving, so just looking at it as-is can give false positives to the actual source(s). -John

I'll take the bait. I'm far from an artisan. More like not-egregiously-incompetent. I went with Emerald because, at the time, a lot of Westfield and Caterham owners in the UK had gone that route. This meant a large pool for community support to back up Emerald's great direct support. Emerald also has a dyno on site and tunes engines, resulting in a large library of maps they make available to their customers as starter maps which really speeds up the process. From a functionality perspective, the Emerald has a self learning function that allows you to create a target AFR map based on load and rpms and it will adjust fueling to meet those targets as you drive the car. That is not something unique to Emerald, but it's a great feature to consider if you plan to do the map yourself. If @Croc does go for the Emtron, that may be your best option since he or his minions could provide in-person support. -John

I've updated the thread title. Congrats on the sale! Where did it end up? Thanks, John