JohnCh

Peter, I believe @OrangeMax and @DemoDan both brought used se7ens into WA from out of state earlier this year. Hopefully one of them can chime in with their experience. -John

Lot of great stuff here. For my upcoming Caterham build, I too am using the wireless buttons from Blinkstop, and an MXS 1.2 fed via CAN from my ECU. One of the differences I've noticed between my Westfield and the Caterhams I've driven is that the steeper dashboard angle on the Caterham seems to generate a lot more glare from the gauges when the sun is behind the car. I plan to mount the MSX at an angle so the face is aiming at me rather than the sky. How has the Motogadget worked out? I'm also toying with including that in my build. -John

Based on your first post, this should be a very interesting thread to follow! The mention of Millington is intriguing. -John

A simple test is to swap coils and see if the dead cylinder stays put or follows the coil. You can do the same with the injectors if you then want to rule out that problem. -John

Given this wasn't a mechanical overrev, I'm surprised a valvetrain issue would surface unless something was already weakened and simply looking for an excuse to go bang. Is it a high mileage engine? You have stock cams and valve springs, correct? Although dead cylinder doesn't look good, check the cheap, simple things first. Make sure you are getting spark as John suggests, and also check that the injector is delivering fuel. Given you were cleaning things, is it possible you jostled the coil or injector connector for that cylinder? Remove those and make sure the pins all look seated correctly. -John

327 hp does sound...sufficient? I think that's the right word. How is the traction? -John

I had a 1700 crossflow in my first car. They may not produce the most power, but they make enough to be very entertaining in a se7en and generate fantastic noise. -John

Welcome Phil, that car looked very well bought. The photos you attached were a file type I've never seen before and are unsupported. I've sent you a PM to help. -John

As Graham notes, you can't simply replace the sensor, but you can buy a WBO2 system with controller and wire that to the MBE. The instruction manual should identify any changes you will need to make to accommodate, but it could require a slight wiring change (e.g. the Emerald uses different pins in the harness plug for WB vs. NB and also requires a setting change in the software.) -John

Welcome Dave! I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but as per the post below made by a dealer almost 3 months ago, Caterham is no longer accepting US orders for the Sigma-powered models (310 and 270). I've read similar on BlatChat. The good news is the Duratec-powered models are still available. Although not as light as the Sigma, it's still a great engine. -John

@NeoBear SB100 has come up a lot over the years, but often times is not apparent by the thread title. The forum search function is actually quite good (one of the reasons we moved to this software), so I encourage you to search on SB100 and dig into the various threads you uncover. You'll see the one mentioned by @kayentaskier is the #2 result after your new thread which uses SB100 in the title. -John

Just hoping it's not in the water. Glad to hear you both made it through unscathed. Hope that's a pattern on the forum. -John

I know we have a large number of members who live in the Northeast. I hope everyone made it through yesterday's events without incident. -John

The Supertech LC-60-250 is 6mm ID, 2.5mm thick and 2.5mm deep, so close. Might be worth a call to see if you can get exact measurements. BTW they make custom valves, so they might also make lash caps to size. https://www.supertechperformance.com/contact -John

All kinds of parts are custom fabricated for vintage race cars given replacement items are NLA or extremely difficult to find. It's worth digging into to see what's feasible. -John Just did a quick search and found this. I'm sure there are many others around the country: https://www.titaniumvalve.com/lash-caps

I'm trying to think what part you need that only costs $6. is it the lash cap? If so, wouldn't it be easier and ultimately cheaper to have it machined locally? -John

Here is another easy to make design. Flat aluminum stock folded to make the tray, Aluminum flat stock for the tie downs, and wing nuts to speed removal. The bends on the flat stock apply some tension to the wingnut assembly, acting like lock washers, so no need to torque them down too hard. It's a little easier to fabricate something for a small Lithium battery like this, but I previously used a similar design for a PC680, which worked fine for years. -John

Glad it worked, and nice looking car. I'm a big fan of eye-searing colors on a se7en! -John

Glad you are making progress. Do you have a wide band O2 sensor feeding into the MBE? If not, it's very useful for trouble shooting, particularly if you can log events vs. only seeing live data. -John

If it is cold start, and the MBE manual doesn't provide much info, this guide from Emerald may prove helpful from a methodology perspective. The most relevant section starts on page 9 "Coolant temperature injection corrections." -John

In the video, the idle seems very stable for the first 5 seconds, then slowly drops off. I'm used to immediate idle instability when it's a cold mapping issue and a lumpy drop off. @sf4018 are you able to keep the car idling by blipping the throttle? If so, then I'd start by looking for the idle settings in the map. Typically that's handled by adding a certain amount of advance when the revs fall below a certain amount and fuel enrichment tied to coolant and air temp. Emerald has some good guidance on how to attack this on their site. The software interface is different, but conceptually the same process is the same. I can dig out a link in a bit. -John

It almost sounds like it's running out of fuel. Is the pump still operating when it dies? What happens when you immediately try to restart it? Any change to the behavior shown in the video? -John

That was a bargain at just $21,500! -John

Glad you were able to connect with the builder. Hopefully he can fill in the rest of the gaps so you know exactly what you have (pistons, rods, cams, head work). -John

Given the ones from Burton Power appear the same as yours, it might be worth a call to see if they can provide more detail. The page I linked to earlier states "Tappet shim to fit our solid tappets. 0.160" thick (machine to suit) and 6mm stem. Will also suit any tappet/valve with a 6mm stem." Looking at their solid tappets, it appears they are referring to those offered by Kent in standard 30mm, and a slightly larger 32mm sizes. Seems like a reasonable lead to follow. -John