ashyers

The solvents used to clean mass flow sensors work pretty well and don't harm plastics. I'm curious to know why the roller barrels need cleaning. Is there build up on them? Andy

Looks like you're having some fun! I'm in the East Bay if you need any assistance. You guys are going to have a blast driving it when you're done!! Andy

Back when I worked in Formula Atlantic one of our drivers complained that the car would generate certain frequencies that would 'set him free'. Fortunately it was an issue with backfires like Croc mentioned and not something more serious. This post reminded me of that issue. The same driver once came over the radio complaining his rump was burning. Upon further examination (of the car!) we found we were a bit too aggressive with the ride height and the new venue a bit bumpier than expected. Opps! Andy

Croc, Did you have to bump up the wire gauge with the Hella horns or was the factory wiring adequate? Thanks, Andy

I believe they were for the PCV system on the '73 Midget I had.

Croc called it. Change everything that remotely looks like a hose or gasket unless it's Teflon. The gaskets/hoses in the pump assembly will self destruct if removed from the tank and then reused. I'm not sure of what causes the reaction, but when I was warned of this years ago we did an experiment. We pulled all the rubber components from a fuel pump system and placed them on my desk over a weekend. Upon return they had all aged approximately 1000 years. Looked like massive ozone cracking/dry rot. Not a piece was remotely usable. They do just fine until removed from their environment. Andy

I spotted this on CL this morning: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/novato-1961-lotus-series/7854626269.html

I’ve used Delta Camshafts in Washington. They’ve been good to work with. Andy

JohnCh, The coil on my Caterham is a Ford part. I'll have to find a P/N. It's the same as on a '92 2.3 I have. The coil add-liteness has appears to be different. For reference which is gen 1 and gen 2? Andy Added photos

JohnCh, Good catch on the coil pack. It's different than the one on my Duratec. I wasn't aware there were multiple generations for the wasted spark set up. I think you're right about the Ranger wires, the Ranger engine I have has the coil mounted in a different location than the engine in the Caterham. The XL1 wires that I found above appear to be for the same coil I'm using so the boots may be a no go. Andy

These look flashy :). https://xl1racesupply.com/products/custom-2-5-duratec-spark-plug-wires I'll check to see if I can see a P/N on mine when I get down to the garage. Andy edit: added photos

This may help: The cooling system on my car was a hodgepodge of hoses and tubes when I purchased it. I used the info in the post linked to fix things. I tossed probably 10# of hose and tubing and now the cooling system works just fine and is much simpler. Andy

Charlie, From what I hear in the videos it sounds like the timing is way off. It sounds like it's over advanced. Can you check the base timing with a light? It would be useful to see if that's correct, especially after the new ECU and Crank Sensor change. Andy

If you’re running antifreeze in the cooling system and you have coolant in the oil you should replace the bearings. Antifreeze will attack the bearings leading to failure down the road. Andy

Some of the mountain bike cables are more heavy duty. If you're replacing the sleeve too check the liner, there are some different ones with varying amounts of friction. Make sure you have slight play at WOT when up to temp and you foot pressing hard.

I'm not sure what the stock cable is, but when mine snapped (SBD ITB's) we drove it home with a shoelace and then visited a local bike ship. Shimano to the rescue . There's a variety of adapters available, some solder on, some clamp on. The better bike cables are pretty high quality.

I did something similar with my SV. Used a press and v block to bend the pedal so it works for blipping. I'll have to dig up the photos. At some point I want to bend the clutch too so I can fit a dead pedal. The pedal spacing is definitely a bit wonky! At least my feet fit in the SV ! Andy

SCse7en, If you're planning on using the 64012 lug nuts check the overall height to make sure they fit under the caps. I'm running them on Minilite style wheels with no caps. Andy

SCse7en, If they are a KN wheel like the 16' and 14' wheels I have they use a M12-1.5 thread. I just purchased some McGard 64012 nuts to go with the KN 14x6 wheels I picked up. The 16' wheels use a hub cap similar to those on your wheels and use an open ended buldge nut, I suspect it's made by Gorilla since the hub cap nuts/keys are. As far as inserts, the KN wheels I have do not have any. Andy

das76, Search “fuel AND tank AND gasket”. It’s a common issue. The gasket is from a Mini. I’ll see if I can dig up the P/N. I found a cork replacement at Rock Auto and installed it with fuel proof sealant. No issues since. Andy

What ECU are you running? I spent a bunch of time on cold start stuff to get it to work well. I don’t have an idle air bypass so it took some patience. Depending on what “knobs” you can adjust you should be able to get it to work.

Tim, Set the jets flush with the bridge and wind them out 2 turns from there. While you’re doing that check the fuel level. It should be very close to the top of the jet, but not spilling over. Adjust the float height as needed. Toss the pistons/needles/dampers back on and see if you have better results. You can always lower the jets to get it running and warm, then wind them in once up to temp. Andy

Have you tried watching your Throttle Index Map live? This may give you some insight. On the earlier ECU's this map determined the voltage/throttle site relationship. Maybe in the later ECU's you could configure it as a rising or falling setup???? Andy

Thanks!!!! The TD is quite a vehicle. 1930's technology for 1951 ! Andy

Here's the wheel info for the 16", 5 spoke wheels. 7Jx16 ET19