11Budlite

As my new Caterham kit is soon to be arriving, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with chassis stands being used in place of the typical axle stands. I have a couple different sets of axle stands but I'm intrigued by these chassis stands because of the available 28" height and how that would help an old guy like me work on the car. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3175

That'll be a fun project! Looking forward to updates.

Looks like a fun project, looking forward to updates on your progress.

Good news Paul!

Definitely need more photos of that one. And change out that steering wheel!

$21k buy-it-now? Something doesn't seem right with that either.

Thanks Mike. Jeff must be quite the driver if he can do a track day and steam up the windows with his girlfriend at the same time!

What engine/ECU combination do you have?

What a cool track and location. Thanks for the great write-up and photos Mike! Quick question, is the white coupe at the 8:08 mark of the video a Ginetta?

Just a small point, but the engine appears to be 1.8 engine (BP designation) from the 1994-2005 NA8/NB Miatas with a cast iron block and aluminum head. The later Duratec/MZR engines were produced in 2.0/2.3/2.5 sizes with the 2.0 being used in the 2006-2015 Miatas as well as Caterhams. As you know, these had aluminum blocks and heads. Interesting vehicle the Zero 1. I've seen them briefly over the years but never paid much attention. I wonder if they use the Miata rear IRS as well?

Great job on the video, thanks for sharing!! Roger Barr sure had some interesting comments about Lotus and Colin Chapman!

I have no experience with the S1 so I don't know if that's possible, but maybe someone else has done it. According to the build manual, the engine and transmission are installed as a unit. Pretty good manual here: https://www.secondstrike.com/Technical/S1_Installation_and_Service_Manual.pdf

I've attached a couple photos. The first one shows the different input seal designs that I used when I had my gearbox apart. The seal on the right is the original one that leaked and the seal on the left is the replacement that didn't leak. The one on the right was a single-lip seal while the one on the left was a double-lip seal with the spiral ribs on it. Funny thing was that I got both seals from the same supplier, but I can't recall if it was TRE or BAT. The second photo I found on the internet shows one of the problem areas for leaks. When I first assembled the gearbox to the bellhousing, I used a paper gasket with blue hylomar on both sides of it. The 3-bolt flange/stub shaft is a tight fit in the case and probably wouldn't leak, but I think I used a small layer of hylomar there too. My leak was coming from the input shaft seal, but others had leaks from around the shift rod so I decided to use Permatex Right Stuff in place of the thin gasket. The two mating surfaces have to be really clean so I use either alcohol or Brakleen with a clean rag and keep wiping it down until no grime/residue shows on the rag. After that I had no more issues. "I used Quantum Mechanics for parts on one Birkin transmission, and for the whole transmission on another Birkin. I wish his parts and shop were cleaner, but overall good experiences." You should have seen John's shop when he worked out of his garage. It looked like a stack of LBC transmissions, overdrives, and rear ends had been piled to the ceiling and there had been an explosion. There was literally parts everywhere! To his credit he knew right where everything was! http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15911&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15912&stc=1

Driven - I rebuilt my T9 with a BGH close ratio gearset back in the 2005-2007 time frame. Besides the gearset, I picked up parts from https://www.taylor-race.com/, http://batford.net/, and http://www.quantumechanics.com/ that were the only US suppliers that I knew of at the time. I'm not sure if these companies are still dealing in the Sierra/Merkur T9 transmission parts, but they're worth checking into. If all else fails you can always get the parts from the UK from various suppliers. That 3-bolt flange/stub shaft is the same as the one in my old car and denotes the heavy duty T9's that used a bigger front roller bearing for the laygear. I did have an oil leak from the front of mine when I first put it together and had to take it back apart to replace the input shaft seal. I think I used Permatex Right Stuff instead of a gasket between the box and the bellhousing the 2nd time around too. I'm pretty sure I still have some detail photos at home that I can post later today of some things to look for. When it was back together, it was one of the nicest shifting gearboxes I've ever used with some great ratios for a seven.

The ones in the first two photos look like Lucas L594 (beehive) lights that were used on Bugeye Sprites, MGA's, TR3's and some other LBC's. The chrome ring captures the glass lens into the rubber base. Should be available from Moss and others in the US, or various suppliers in the UK. The second two photos look like the present day Caterham ones that are held in with screws. Diagram here: https://mossmotors.com/mg-midget-austin-healey-sprite/electrical-ignition/bugeye-lamps

Thanks for the photos Bob, and thanks for your write-up Glen. I saw a video recently of a Lotus IX body being rebuilt at Wray Schelin's shop, here: I wonder if that's the same one that was at LOG? With the number of Lotus IX's in the US I'm thinking it could be.

Very sad news, I was impressed with her talents and attitude. As the father of a daughter who does a lot of guy things (sport bikes/cars/guns/chain saws/etc) there's always the worry in the back of your mind that something can go wrong. RIP Jessi...

Welcome Brad. Sounds like you have an interesting collection of cars. A few photos would be nice!

I bought this rolling chassis from Automotive Restorations/Vintage Racing Services back in December of last year. It was fabricated from original Series 2 plans with some of the typical reinforcements to strengthen the weak original design. I had hoped to build it up as a vintage racecar with my son or son-in-law, but they both have young families and not a lot of extra time, so it doesn't look like that's going to happen any time soon. With the arrival of my 310S coming in the next couple weeks this one is going on the back burner. Here are a few of the details: Chassis: Series 2 RHD replica, single hoop rollbar Body: Caterham nose/bonnet/scuttle, 8" rear fenders (BRG), aluminum panels with some work still to be completed Front Suspension: Koni Classic shocks, fabricated control arms, Spitfire spindles/hubs, .700" sway bar Rear Suspension: Fabricated trailing arm with panhard rod, Spax shocks? Steering: RHD Rack & Pinion Brakes: Girling 3/4" master cylinders with balance bar (F) Spitfire calipers with slotted rotors ® 9" Finned aluminum drums Rear End: Alfa Romeo, 4.10:1, 80/20 LSD, custom machined Moser axles Wheels: 6 x 13 steel, 3.75 x 4 PCD Tires: Hoosier Street TD, 205/60-13 Fuel Cell: ATL FC160, 6 gal, Billet Cap Gauges: Choice of AutoMeter Ultra-Lite or Stack Vintage Engine: TBD Gearbox: TBD

Thanks Jay, that would be great. Looking forward to meeting you guys.

Thanks for the offer wemtd. I'll post photos when the kit arrives and we can go from there. Definitely looking forward to some fun drives!

Thanks for your input Tom. I've been reviewing the build guides and the new IKEA style guide makes it look pretty easy....but with anything British you can never be too sure! Should be fun anyway!!

This one is pretty close to me. Is anyone here going? Oops, this probably should have been put in National Events.

Thanks Kitcat. My youngest daughter almost convinced me to go with black with a different color nose band/stripe but figured I was safer going with my all-time favorite of BRG. I don't plan on spending as much time on the Cat as I did on my Birkin because I don't plan on doing many modifications, if any. It definitely won't be rushed though.