bball7754

Weehawken. I read about this possibility a few weeks agon on Joe Saward's F1 blog. Here is a link to a short article about it: http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970204618704576645651553992120.html

Not sure where you're located, but here is a 711M listed on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Ford-Cortina-Lotus-7-Formula-Ford-Kent-Crossflow-1600-711M-Engine-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item4aafd08355&item=320777257813&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr Steve

Believe the kit for that picture is for a 160-170 HP spec, which I'm pretty sure the standard crank can take. Dave Bean also has BDA/G/R (etc.) parts and kits, as do these guys: http://www.blueskyracing.com/ Can you tell what this Crossflow owner dreams about? Now, all I have to do is win the lottery. Steve

Dave - Did you see this post? http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?p=57325#post57325

I purchased Ben's dad's Caterham, so always felt loyalty to RMSCI. That loyalty was only strengthed by the number of lengthy phone conversations with Ben troubleshooting my Seven. I've made several parts purchases from CatUSA, and while a different experience, eventually things have worked out. Steve

Ian - Think you're referring to these? https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3544 They do carry a gasket for the cast covers. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3543 Steve

Maybe they will have a Birkerham (Caterkin?) love child, with a Duratec on out of sync Weber's that leaks oil. Steve

Mike - I think you've angered the Crossflow gods. Some type of sacrifice may be in order.... Seriously, though, congrats on the purchase, and will be interested to read more comparisons. Steve

Like Kit Kat, I'm also a trailer newbie. My original plan was to run my straps through the wheels and attach the tie downs that way. Problem is, I can't fit the d-rings on the straps through my 13" mini lites. Front is pretty straight forward - use the A-arms. But the rear is not as clear. Thought I would use the Dedion tube on my Caterham, but the brake lines are right where I would run the straps. Not real comfortable strapping over the brake lines. Currently I'm using the rear most attachment point of the A-frame. So, are there other Caterham owners out there strapping the back down and not using the wheels? If so, where/how are you strapping down the back? Thanks. Steve

If it makes you feel any better, I spent about $200 having Aldon change the curve on my distributor, then when I thought it was lost in the mail spent another $215 or so on the Pertronix. So I've invested about $400 in distributors - and the one I'm using is borrowed!! Ah, the joys of the Crossflow.

Sabbot - I have the same "bounce" with my timing light, but have it at idle on up. Just have a Lucas Sport coil. Would also like to know the cause. Towbone - It's a stock distributor. Actually bought it from Summit Racing - they had a good price. I emailed Petronix support asking about the advance curve, and they answered with this, which seems like different info than what you've received:

Yep, part noD190509 (side exit, no vacuum advance). Unfortunately, it's still sitting on the workbench. I had a brain cramp when I put it in and didn't connect the low voltage leads. Tried to start it and flooded it. Connected them, and then had a heck of a time getting it to start. Put my borrowed one back in, and it's been too hot to work on it since. If you buy it and get the Flamethrower II coil, it (the coil) won't fit in the ignition coil bracket for the Lucas coil. Ask me how I know. Steve

Twobone - You might want to find out which Aldon model they are selling you. The "unleaded" version is notorious for having a poor advance curve. I sent my Aldon back to them to be recurved. Gave them my basic specs (primarily the cam I have) and they changed the curve. Some searches on Blatchat should give you plenty of info on the issue. Unfortunately, since it's been back I've had other issues with it, but they were still good to work with. Steve

Did the same thing at an Autocross about 4 years ago. Was in the process of emptying the boot when someone came up and started a conversation. I got distracted, and didn't remove my jack kit. I already had a few dents in that same area, but added a few more. I've come to accept them as providing my Seven more character. Misery loves company? Steve

The Pertronix was/is my backup. I sent my Aldon to England to have the curve changed, as what I had was known to be poor. The modified Aldon now causes my tach to bounce all over the place. I've replaced the battery, ignition and HT leads (both were due anyway), changed the low voltage connectors, and confirmed the alternator output. None of them fixed the tach issue. Have another Aldon on loan from a UK Caterham owner who has a spare. With that distributor installed, I have no tach problems. The Pertronix was purchased as an alternate when I thought that my distributor was lost in transit to the UK. See, I told you it was a saga. So, I have a distributor with, theoretically, the correct advance curve for my engine and specs. But don't have a working tach with it installed. And have a Pertronix that let's the tach work, but not sure about the advance curve. Am I having fun, or what?

Ian - Doesn't it really open up an additional 20 degrees between 1000 and 4000? It's at 5 degrees at 1000, and 25 at 4000, which seems like an additional 20 degrees. I had asked for the static advance, but all they gave me was a chart with the advance starting at 5 degrees at 1000 rpm. Is it really possible that the static advance is less than 5 degrees, and that the advance has actually opened up X degrees by 1000 rpm? Steve

I’ve had a distributor issue with my Crossflow for… well, too long. I won’t bore everyone with the full saga, but I’m at a point where I’m ready to replace my Aldon Ignitor with a Pertronix Ignitor II. According to Pertronix tech support, the curve on the distributor is 5 degrees at 1000 rpm to 25 degrees at 4000 rpm. My Crossflow needs 12-14 at idle, which is more like 1200 rpm. Ignoring whether the actual curve suits the cam/carbs, etc., I thought I’d be ok. I thought that moving the idle advance up by, say, 7-9 degrees to 12-14, would result in the total advance being increased by 7-9. So max would be 7-9 plus 25, or 32-34, which is about right (I think 34 is preferred). Pertronix tech support said, no, if I set the idle to 14 the total advance would be 14 plus the 25 per the original curve spec for a total of 39. Which is too much. Is he right? Thanks. Steve

Set with it just touching the ball on the valve, I believe. I bought a long 12mm bolt and used that to measure. Easier (to me) than trying to get a micrometer in there. Steve

Wallage book on rebuilding and tuning Crossflow's has 22-29 ft. lbs. Steve

Kiwi - It's really for track days. I had to limp home (225 miles) from a track day last summer, and finally decided that I was pushing my luck. My preference is still to drive it - but this opens up some other possibilities. Steve

Carl - Could you send me the AI files? Email is: smont7@gmail.com Thanks.

Mondo - Not really sure about the theory behind the design, other than some aero benefit and easy access to both ends. Jim - Pretty sure they didn't do any wind tunnel work when they were designing the trailer. I didn't feel any lift when I towed it empty back from Michigan. Mike - I thought it towed well, but I'd never towed anything before so don't have any comparisons. Drove through some serious storms coming home (windy and heavy rain), and it seemed to track well. I drove 65-70 most of the way home, and got about 14 mpg with the Volvo. I was hoping for more, but it (the Volvo) actually doesn't get very MPG in general. I considered an open Trailex, but really wanted something covered. My friend with the Lotus Eleven has the same trailer. He bought it as an open trailer when he first purchased his Seven, then had them convert it to covered. After owning it for about 4 years, he said he'd still make the same choice. Only downside is that there is lots of opportunity for leaks. But I'm happy so far. Steve

Picked up my new trailer from Montrose Trailers at the end of April. It's 14', enclosed and all aluminum, except for the deck. Total width, including the fenders, is 94". Interior width is 74". "Standard" width is, I believe, 104". According to the Certificate of Origin, it weighs 1380 lbs, but I think that is likely optimistic. Here are a few pics. Steve

Wendell - Here is a possible source for a new Girling, and/or parts. http://www.bugsandbuggies.com/Neal_Grp.asp?Group1=Cylinders&Group_Name=Master+and+Slave+Cylinders Steve

Dave - Thought I'd pick you up around 6:00 at your hotel. Maybe meet you in the lobby? I'll be driving a white Mini Cooper S. I'm about 5'10, and much of my hair growth has shifted from the top of my head to my face. Mike/Jerry - That should put us at the Tap Room around 6:30. Hope that works for all. Call me at work with questions/issues: 314-726-4551. Or cell: 314-605-6686