KnifeySpoony

I've even heard of some people running 10w60 in Duratecs.

Won't somebody please think of the children!

Wow, rare car and with an SB100 sticker...

How much track time is that and how much power is your car making?

Which pads in the rear? OEM pads I went through in 8 days, so I "upgraded" to Ferodo DS3000 and only was getting 5 days. And one of those sets had catastrophic failure on the 5th day (completely crumbled off of the backplate)

I think I heard that since the Sierra calipers are no longer available new/NOS, Caterham is rebuilding/remanufacturing old ones. Perhaps that has led to a decline in quality. However there are plenty of people on blatchat with very poor rear pad life, and even DPR ( I believe a popular UK 7 race tuning shop) says this on the page for the rear brake upgrade- "This upgrade provides far better rear brake pad longevity, much improved brake pedal compliance and a more robust and leak free system as found with the standard rear Caterham calipers. If you are tired of going through so many rear standard pads and discs after only a few track days this is a ‘must have’ upgrade!" Pads lasting only a few days and leak issues - yep that's my issue exactly...

Race rear brake upgrade. Finally ditching the garbage Sierra calipers.

subbed, as I feel this upgrade is in future some day

Is that full tank?

Roller barrels are an easy and well sorted (although perhaps slightly overpriced) addition that is easy to do during initial build that will net you some additional power and a lot more sound. And the throttle response is greatly improved from what I've read (I build mine with the rollers so I have no basis for comparison).

rebleed - the pedal will never be rock hard with the shitty flexing rear sliders but it should be decent Narrow shoes - yes - I can only drive it in proper racing booties. And even then I had to bend my throttle pedal to the right to make it easier to drive re: handbrake - I found that mine would barely hold the car until the rear pads were bedded.

Welcome- whereabouts in the bay are you (I'm in Fremont area)? It looks like a "sporty" spec - do you plan to track it? re: build blogs - when I built mine in 2021, I used this one (almost more than the actual build manual): https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/

Caterham already solved this issue with the rad duct on the CSR. You could fashion up something similar if you have a vent in your nose cone. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/1724-radiator-ducting-csr-models.html

It's a standard ford TPS - you can pick it up at a ford parts counter, or get an offbrand equivalent online for dirt cheap.

I dunno, to me this just looks better too...

Any thoughts on just doing the full bonnet cutout? Or find someone nearby that has one you can swap on to do testing?

FYI this is where my MC is located. I could route the line up on top of the pedal box but I worry about ease of bleeding, even with a pressure bleeder.

re: throttle cable - my original cable had a different design to that plastic part and it fit fine. I recently had to replace a broken cable and the new one had a different apparent plastic part that was indeed too big to fit. I had to sand/dremel it down to get it to fit. I then ordered another cable to have as a backup, which was yet another design that was even bigger and will be an ever bigger PITA to fit next time. Welcome to 7 life...

I already have a pressure bleeder, thanks for the tips on bleeding. Re: your valve location - my pedal box/MC configuration is very different. The MC is mounted lower and more forward under the airbox/trumpets with very little surrounding space.

I considered putting the valve under the bonnet for ease of install (and assuming that it would for the most part be set-and-forget), but I'm not sure where I would put it to keep it down low. I've read that you don't want to run lines above the height of the MC or it can be difficult to bleed. Can you take a pic of your valve setup? The pic of the valve I posted is on a RHD car - on my car, it would be on the passenger side of the tunnel. What hydraulic parking brake are you using? There has been chatter on various addon parking brakes on blatchat for years, but I don't think they have found a good solution.

That looks like a single flare? So that is what is attaches to one of these:?

Hmm my ignorance showing again.... if you cut the bubble off, then there's no flare at all? It just goes straight into the banjo fitting?

The threads into the valve are 10mm per spec sheet. So you're saying that those banjo fittings on pegasus will not mate up with a bubble flare? Should I cut off the bubble flare and put a standard double flare on it?

Thank you for the links. The rearward line as supplied by caterham has a bubble flare on it. Forgive my ignorance, but which banjo fitting interfaces with this? My plan was to cut the forward line from the MC bend it 90 and put a flare on it (having no prior experience cutting or flaring brake lines). I haven't pulled the tunnel top off yet to see if access to the line will be adequate, but I assume since these are put in post-build sometimes that it is doable. I am nervous about the whole thing tbh. Having multiple connections with poor access/visibility after it's all buttoned up will make it difficult to assess for leaking. I will have to test it well before buttoning it back up.

Another bump, as I have the new brakes on the way to do this. The DPR kit uses flex lines from the valve to the rear (and they won't sell it to me). Caterham intends for it to be a solid line from the valve to the 3way union in the rear, and I have this line. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/brake-pipes/4656-brake-pipe-bias-valve-to-rear-3-way-union-r300.html It has a flared end - I guess this just pokes out through a hole in the tunnel and directly into the valve?