KnifeySpoony

TBH I think there just aren't enough of us here in the States, and/or we're just too spread out to make it viable. A shame, really.

That's odd - I must've been on some defunct Toyo site because it didn't show the 13. Too bad no wider sizes for rear. Also, I've according to grassroots motorsports, the RR is similar pace to a AR-1, which comes in same 13" sizes as 888s.

RR and R don't come in 13" sizes. Might work for those running 15s. In fact I think I know someone running RRs on his CSR on 15s.

That would give us some good data on pace compared to ZZR and the Avon slick, as we can compare historical laptimes.

Which tire in the top class?

I'm curious to know what they are running for the official Caterham race series. I know that the top class used to run on ZZR (not sure which compound), but then switched to Avon slicks a couple years ago. Now...?

Just realized that the FC slick is a bias ply slick. Hoosier also makes a radial slick with same R60A compound: Radial Slicks Price Part # Class T.W. Diam Circ Rim Rim S.W. Compound 185X60R13 43222 FF 6.4 21.8 68.7 5.5 5.5 7.7 R60A 205X60R13 43327 FF 8 22.7 71.4 5.5 5.5 8.7 R60A

Seems odd that the smaller sizes aren't available in A compound; seems counterintuitive to me. I wonder what a 225 square setup would be like. Front OD is same, but rear is smaller. Would need to tweak geometry, and roll stiffness as well to restore balance. Steering weight and feel could suffer too. That's a big bump up in front tire section. Looks like the formula continental slick is a better fit choice: https://www.hoosiertire.com/news/article/71058/Hoosier_Releases_New_Spec_Tire_for_SCCA_Formula_Continental_Class. I wonder what the R60A compound is like compared to Avon's A64/A24/extreme compounds. Hoosier says it's for hot temps "'The R60A compound works best in summer season temperatures where track temps often exceed 95F." I still drive my car to the track - I'm not that worried about getting "caught" out with slicks, but construction and compound need to be capable enough to be able to drive to/from trackdays safely. If it needs a lot of heat, it could be even sketchier when cold than the ZZR. Hoosier puts that compound on all sorts of tires, including kart tires, so it must be fairly temp versatile.

Nice table. Not sure if the 888 is some kind of softer compound for 13" sizes, but the R7 is a much sticker tire than the 888 in larger sizes for "normal" cars. Is the A7 not available in our sizes? - I would think that compound would be more appropriate for our light cars.

Hmm they used to sell the 340 in EU as well. I guess that is being discontinued as well?

Subbing for info as I've been considering this upgrade for a while. Where did you put the proportioning valve? I'd be interesting in seeing/hearing more about the install.

Congrats. See you on track.

I also just used jackstands (flat top Escos) and never wished that I had mobile stands during my build.

Sonoma

Hub nuts are 42mm now. This: https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/category/preparation/ was what I used as my primary build guide along with the "ikea" manual. I couldn't have done it without this blog tbh.

TBH I take Matt's opinions with a large grain of salt - I consider him opinionated but not necessarily an expert. However I can see why someone would say that with a stiffly sprung 7 on bad roads. The high unsprung to sprung mass ratio in the rear, as well as sitting so close to the rear axle makes you feel the bumps in the rear in a very different way. He later drove a 360 in the US and had no complaints. Probably smoother road and/or softer springs.

If it's just the alternator concern, a small heat shield would likely be simpler and more effective perhaps.

Few from Laguna:

I wish we had hard numbers on the actual steering ratios (on our cars and other cars). The percentage increase above whatever the original s3 ratio was is not really that helpful. Also, turns lock to lock is not a useful metric either, as it doesn't take into account the total steering angle available, so is somewhat meaningless on its own. My car does not have much available lock, so the ratio may not be as quick as the low "lock to lock" number would suggest.

green is higher flow/more capacity

The TPS is reused from the plenum to the RBTB setup. Although it wouldn't hurt to have a spare, as i believe they are prone to failure. Another thing - last I heard, CC is still shipping the RBTB kit with the green R500 injectors- however these are incorrect, at least they were on my car. The new RBTB tune is designed to be used with the stock black injectors.

FYI you don't need to send the ECU to be reflashed. CC will email you the tune and you can flash it yourself if you have an easimap cable.

I built my kit from new with the roller barrels and they are amazing sounding but I have nothing to compare to. There is a thread on here about install/dyno.

Which type of seats were you planning on speccing? If you do the Tilletts, the SV has a wider seat which may be necessary if you have wide hips. I am 6'1" and thin but I barely fit in the S3-sized tillett's. If you do the leather seats, then you will have more space. Another consideration is pedal spacing. S3 pedal box is comically narrow and requires small feet or racing shoes. If you want to drive in sneakers, then SV would be more flexible.

At your size I think you would best fit in an S3 with standard floors. Personally, I wouldn't go SV unless I needed the boot space or fuel capacity. But I agree a test fit in various cars will tell you what you need to know. Hopefully there will be someone in your neck of the woods.