KnifeySpoony

This you?

Either a scam or a troll or just a joke it seems...

After opening on a full size monitor, yes it appears to be a CGI.

"sorry honey I tried to sell it"

Booster is a bad idea IMO. You will get used to it and prefer it to boosted systems IMO. Way more feel and easy to modulate. Yes the 12v socket is live when the key is off. I use it to maintain the battery - I just put on an SAE connector in place of the socket and plug in my charger. I have a cutoff switch that I use for longer periods of inactivity, but some people don't like that because it resets the ECU and the car runs extra rich apparently until fully up to temp and the ECU can adapt. This could be a bigger issue with the car if overcooling is a problem.

My understand is that based on the way the cooling is plumbed, the thermostat is open all the time. Tweaking the plumbing by adding a bypass loop solves the issue.

Hmmm I would worry that fixing it to the arb will cause significantly more stress on the wire than if it's on the radius arm.

Awesome, congrats. Look into the 620 overcooling issues on blatchat. There is a fix.

Ugh, so this problem is NOT solved. I took the car out today for a pre-track-season shakedown (first real drive after new radiator install). The hesitation didn't start until driving for about 20-30min. Seems heat is involved somehow? but car was at full operating temp for a while before the symptom started up. Same exact behavior as before. Not sure what I need to look into next. Thinking I should invest in a wideband AFR and see what I can learn.

Approximately a 0.000000000000000000000000000000000001% of this happening.

Hmm not as light as I thought it would be. Tiny but heavy. And that's with no transmission. An S1000RR engine makes similar power with half the weight including the transmission. https://www.rotax.com/en/products/rotax-powertrains/details/rotax-900-ace-turbo.html

Wow very cool. It's like a dry sump motorcycle engine but all integrated. I'm not a big turbo fan, but would seem to work very well in a 7.

Dang now I feel left out. I haven't even tried the A24s yet. I still have a couple sets of A64s to burn through. I'm also hesitant because I'm still driving my car to the track...

I should clarify - I have not visualized the actual leak point. I had it pressure tested by submerging in water and could see the general area where it was bubbling. I just referred to it as a "pinhole" because it was enough for coolant residue to accumulate on the fins in the area, but not even enough to drip.

Leaky one was just as shiny lol.

The entire configuration is different, pedal linkages, etc. The main impact in terms of fit is that the pedal spacing will not be the same. You can look up images of the footwell and pedal box to see what I mean.

Bump $150+ ship

I have heard of people using Radtecs. I have read about multiple failures of Radtec units as well. Unclear if this is a low quality rad, or something about the fitment. If this one fails too, I will definitely look into a different supplier for subsequent replacement.

The radiator on my 420R developed a tiny pinhole leak in the upper/driver side corner, which apparently is a common failing point. Car has about 3k miles on it, mostly track. Threads on UK fora discuss multiple replacements/failures- some people are on their 4th or 5th radiators on cars just a few years old. They usually fail in the same place. Theories about excessive vibration transmitted from engine and/or uneven mounting points putting stress on the radiator have been discussed. I ordered a new standalone radiator from CC. They list only the combined water and oil radiators for the 420 road model: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/radiators/7114-radiator-and-oil-cooler-seven-420-road-model.html However, you can get the water rad alone. It says its for the 420 race model only, but mounts up just fine. You just don't need the two little drop brackets anymore: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/radiators/5755-radiator-only-420-race.html I put on the new rad, and decided to try to reduce vibration transmission by replacing the distal segment of the top coolant hose. It's the only hose in the circuit that isn't silicone for some reason. Its much stiffer/harder than the silicone hoses and the theory is that it transmits vibration. So I cut the a segment of the top hose and spliced in the 620R top coolant hose: (https://caterhamparts.co.uk/hoses/5758-cooling-hose-top-seven-620.html) which is a short, curved section of silicone hose that is dramatically more supple. I used a short aluminium 1.5" coupler to join. Side benefit is that the hose is flexible enough that I can now pull it out of the way enough to pull out the oil catch bottle to drain it, and will no longer need to suck it out, which is hard when there's just 1/2-1" of oil in the bottom.

Hey, compared to an atom or BAC mono, a 7 is incredibly practical.

Keep in mind the pedalbox and pedals are very different between RHD and LHD modern Caterhams.

I'm 6' 1", 34" inseam, 185lbs, , fit perfectly in s3 with lowered floors and carbon tilletts. Cozy but comfy, wearing the car as it should be imo. Size 12 feet. Definitely need full on race shoes though. Even then, right foot barely barely fits to operate the throttle on its own. Left foot spacing is not as tight. Try an s3 on for size as well. Make sure it has lowered floors though.

Don't forget about the sound. Practically worth the price of admission alone.

As was stated elsewhere, most of the noise at speed is from wind. I run an aeroscreen so that is even more significant. I have ITBs (the caterham roller barrels) on my car, and I can't even hear the exhaust when on the throttle. The intake noise is much louder (and it's on my side of course). And that's with a decat midpipe. Laguna Seca has strict sound limits most days (usually 90-92db) and has their sound booth on the right side of the track. I did a sound check (on a 105db day) with my right-exiting exhaust one day and blew a 95db. I had a custom exhaust pipe welded up to route the exit from the muffler under the car and out the back, angled to the left, away from the sound station- similar to the factory rear exit exhaust, but without the second smaller rear muffler. Did another sound check- blew a 96db. Keep in mind that a lot of exhaust sound emanates from all the piping and the muffler itself, not just out the tip.

I don't think rear exhaust will change cabin noise much if it all. That's really just to help meet sound limits on track. On a pure street car, I'd go standard brakes. If you plan to track at all, I'd do the uprated brakes for sure. Shift lights are cool if you want something racy and plan on tracking enough to make it worth your while, but really not necessary. I have the lights and I do like them on track if you're chasing laptimes. Because of the nature of the car, you are really "connected" to the engine and can hear and feel all the vibration so you know what it's doing even with a rev counter or shift lights. In general, I'd say 13" wheels all the way, but I have an S3. On an SV, 15s kinda suit the proportions better, and open up more tire choices so there is some advantage to 15" wheels. I have very few tire choices for my 13s.