KnifeySpoony
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Everything posted by KnifeySpoony
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Interesting. People will have to test the A8 in 13" and see what they are like I guess. I previously shied away from trying R7s because I figured I would need the A7 on such a light car, and it was not available in appropriate sizes. Also the fact that I drive to/from the track, which is slightly sketchy on Hoosiers. However, if the R7 and now R8 is actually a good compound for our cars, then I may try it depending on how the whole Nova thing plays out.
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I think Croc got his As and Rs mixed up. With the A7/R7 generation, they only had the R7 available in 13" sizes that would fit our cars (which always seemed odd to me). This seems to still be the case with the new generation of tire. The R8 will be an option, not the A8.
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My car has been insured with Hagerty in CA since 2021. Ask for someone else?
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Looks like it's had doors in the past - already has the poppers. May already be set up for quick windscreen swap too.
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S3
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Yes, the front should be measured as John mentions, right behind the front LCA on the chassis rail/where the body work wraps around there. I was curious because you have your LCA parallel, but your number seems high. With my LCA parallel, my front ride height is 130mm. Then again I think with the track suspension there are spacers the move spindle position for a lower ride height. But that doesn't account for a 30mm difference.
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Yes, would def raise that. On my car (with the "track" dampers, which have significantly higher spring rates than the "sport" setup), I have my front LCA parallel with ground, then the rear about 15mm higher. This does put the bellhousing (lowest point on car) quite low - it will not go over all speed bumps... something to be aware of.
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Which suspension/dampers/springs do you have? How will you use the car? Setting ride height is a balance between center of gravity height, suspension geometry, suspension travel, ground clearance in order to optimize your desired performance/comfort/practicality. Those factors, dictated by your usage and preferences will determine your optimal ride height. Most people starting with 15mm rake. The lower you go technically the better your mechanical grip. However with a short/long arm suspension you generally don't want to go below parallel with ground on the lower wishbone or handling can suffer because of too-low roll center. With a stiffer spring you can go lower - with a softer spring you need the extra travel in bump to stay off the bump stops.
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Weather gear can be easily added. I wouldn't let that be a sticking point.
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Bend the stay then reposition the wing. I think it will work fine.
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I think you're misinterpreting. Looks like they have plans to make a zzs in 185/215, just not any zzr any time soon.
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DeDion tube moves laterally quite a bit as well. On the order of centimeters in my experience.
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Anyone here with the gulf livery 420R?
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With my size 12 feet and modern S3 pedal box (with absurd proximity between throttle/brake), I need the absolute narrowest racing shoes and even then I had to bend my throttle pedal towards the tunnel in order to be able to brake without hitting throttle (which is still very easy to do without deliberate effort top avoid doing so). I ended up with Sparco shoes in a brown leather, to not look like as much of a tart/power ranger walking around the paddock on a trackday. That said, I agree with the sentiment that with an SV and 8.5 you probably can drive in boots. My understanding is that the SV has generous pedal spacing - in fact there are various threads on brake pedal extensions to ease in heel/toe. So you may have the opposite problem actually.
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Yes, the suspension will go into full droop no matter where the collar is set on the shock body. ie the length of the shock in full extension is a fixed entity.
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Yes the tube gets close to frame tubes. Mine actually contacts it centrally (search forum for my thread on the subject). Non issue it turns out. Re: ride height, raising the rear won't make the clearance any less.
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Oh and yes the SLR models (which includes the r500) were in the dedion era, and all came with factory watts linkage afaik. After changing to the current model lineup, the only street car that came with watts from factory as standard was the 620r i believe. However it could be specced as an option or added later of course. I built my 420r from new with watts.
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How can you have a watts without dedion? I mean, you can have a watts linkage on a live axle, but 620 is well after the live axle era.
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Hmm bladder replacement, I hadn't thought of that.
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That's the thing - my bladder is super full and I pee a ton of very dilute urine. So the vibration doesn't just shake the bladder, it shakes the kidneys causing them to produce more urine. I like the idea of a cushion for the drive to the track - it might isolate the higher frequency vibrations. I don't know how much of it is the lower frequency heave that is pretty constant on our local freeways given my high ride frequency in the rear.
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I guess at ripe old age of 46 I need to face the music. Maybe trade it in for a lexus crossover.
