gjslutz

My research convinced me it was a liability issue. When I get back from a few week visit I will order a European hitch rated @ 3K + LBS. I have a 12’ aluminum trailer that weighed 683 LBS. I’m’ presently in the process of enclosing it and will be around 1250 LBS empty with the addition of disk / surge brakes. I expect no problems at all if I keep the engine spooled up on up hill pulls. Pulling too hard in higher gears will create too much heat in the turbo.

Mondo, that was great!!!

I had a few Dodge Dually diesels and a ford F350 Dually diesel that I used along with a few Diesel large motor homes for towing collector cars. All were made in the US and were great. With that being said, the few US built cars I owned were a disappointment to me. They were likely a good value to move people from point A to B though. I also had a few F150’s that were good bang for the buck if you liked pick-up trucks and had a need. After a few Honda cars I had purchased for my wife, I purchased her a 08 Civic all loaded up with Nav, and leather. It has been a big disappointment, @ 12K miles the cheap tires were trash. With 4 people it would bottom out on normal road dips that other cars would not. I just installed Koni adjustable and added a pair of Eibach springs to the rear, problem solved, but no support from Honda with this. I just purchased a VW TDI Sports wagon I plan on using to tow the 7 with. I only have 45 miles on it, but love the low end torque. I fear with all we have done to move manufacturing to China we have created a powerful need for fuel there. We are not allowed to drill in the US and it will kick us in the A**. If the wonderful government would keep it hands off the private sector, the market would force US car makers to build cars that sell, or follow the ones that were blind. My tax $$ should not be used for this. My .02

Nice looking, but the African Mahogany would add lots of weight.

Was this 7 for sale in Oregon A few years ago?

I doubt if I could afford the insurance!

Yes most were yellow after a few years, poor UV protection. Some of the 912's had the soft back window also.

Yes, old enough that I have a hard time remembering inventing it.

Bud lite is correct on the 1983 as the first year for the Cab, My deposit was returned that year as I was too late. I also missed the limmited Pearl 1986 turbo as I didn't have my deposit in soon enough, tight money times. The 1983 959 was way above my pay grade! It could not be used on the roads in the US either. Now if I can find the gas $$ I'll go for a drive with the 7 as we have a forecast of 68'

Add the PCA to the list for Porsche research, the news letter and some info is on line.

1884 was the first year for the modern 911 Cabriolet, I paid $41K for mine new. Targas were anound in most years though, and an rather nice option. The Turbo Body Cabrolet and Speedster are the best looking in my eye. I think the option on my 1988 Turbo body Cab was $11K. Turbo 930 Cabs were also very nice. Starting 1974 911's had different rear trailing arms and the car for the first time started tracking good at speed. 1978 they started the CS series with a slight bulge in the rear fenders. Every year the 911 evolved a little, all had improvements. For a driver, I would purchase the newest in her price range. All of the 911 & 930's I had were bullet proof except the ones that were pumped up too far. My Porsche quest started in 1970 and the last one was an 1996 Cab, 20+ of them. The 930's were not very good as a driver unless you messed with the gearing. The low compression and long first gear made it a dog for stop & go. Once the turbo was spooled up, things were fine. My last 930 was a 1986 (first year after 1978 for the turbo in the US again), if memory is correct. With twin plug heass, cams, micro fuller, K-29 turbo, and more it dynoed 525 RWHP. The gearbox became the weak link then. The wife and I took many long trips in them when we had other cars to drive. Fast & quiet, with a great ride! The Vets of the early years were on the other end of the comfort list. To me they were the best road car built. My .02

Was it pink?

I avoid high congested traffic in my 7. I see too many people not paying attention to their driving; I like to have room for evasive maneuvers. Ear plugs are a must due to wind noise when I have the aeroshield on, I also wear goggles then, due to the road trash the tires throw. If I have the top on the noise level goes up a large amount. It is like I’m in a drum. I have taken some long trips in mine, but like to avoid traffic if I can. I would not drive mine in Atlanta in rush hour at all! My Birkin has the side exhaust exit, just in front of the L. rear tire and I get no exhaust fumes from it. That could be as it is not in stop & go traffic where I would smell other cars as well, likely your problem there. I would be a nervous wreck in the congestion waiting for some one to run over me, “They would have to pull my cold dead body out of it.” A 35MPH impact with another car would likely be terminal. I do wear a ball cap and the enclosed sun glasses, local road type M.C. shops sell them. They seal air from your eyes also.

I think that driver was the valet parking lot attendant that parked my then new 71 XJ12 Jag. I was in the city for the NYC International Car Show. I had to fly home, yes this shows my age!

Dave, Add the Orange Birkin to the order. The Elise would be a great tow car. You could also warm up in it between runs in the Birkin. How is the fit with your length in the Elise? Enjoy the change, we all need some change at times. Gary

Us under powered light weight 4 cyl. drivers don't need power steering. Great idea if needed though

Great save, with fast thinking! It could be worthwhile to go to A&N fittings and lines. It will cost much more, but the problem is gone. The hose clamps are only worth what you pay for them. There is also other problems here, non supported weight, vibration, incorrect hose / fitting size, hose type or hose material. Was the hose over tight fitting barbs made for hose? I have been guilty of all. Too many of us, "me included" do mods that can create other problems we have not thought of. You and others of us all can thank our lucky stars for some of the things we got away with. The question we need to ask our self is: Would I want to fly or ride in an airplane with this set-up? We can’t pull over and fix them. I have refused to fly many aircraft of all types due to bad workmanship. If you would see some of the “Ultralite” class aircraft construction, no pun attended, you would understand the high frequency of forced landings / crashes from them. Many result in serious injury and some in death. The ones you don’t read about are just gathered up and taken home. Take a close look at some. I hope after I finish enclosing my trailer, I don’t create a parts trail on the first long trip! This is another creation of doing something I know little of!

I have seen a few reruns and couldn’t get into the show at all. I also didn’t get into Seinfield, 24 or some other hit shows. I liked the look of the 58 Chevrolet better than the 57 also. I sold my like new 3,300 mile 427 AC Cobra in 1971 for $10K to buy a Pantera. I also was able to loose money in the market, when others were doing double digit gains. I never was a follower, too bad, as now I’m just another poor old senior.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320438297161&viewitem=

I have the frame for my trailer cover welded, painted, doors welded and are working. Now all I need is for the sheeting to arrive in a few weeks. I still plan on having it enclosed with the brake addition and weighing 1200 LBS. Next will be the Zetec / T-9 oil leaks. With the temps in the high 60’s tomorrow is drive time.

The ones that came on my car are much like what Jerry has on his Ultralite (3045). On mine it has an adjustable screw head, not a latch; sticking up to fit into a slot mounted on the top half. The slot has a dimple for the latch screw head to fit down into. There is a small locking nut on the bottom of the screw; I think it is a 4MM nut. There is a little lock button that you need to raise prior to unlocking the latch. The latch is small and works very well. I have no idea where to get them as there is no marking on them. I didn’t build the car. Gary

I would thought I would have seen POWDERBRAKE'S WCM ultralite with you folks. He has a very nice finished yellow WCM, he is a driver also! He is in St Louis.

Slingsht, here are some photos. More can be found if you google: vans rv hinge. http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revisions/RV-12/29-02.pdf http://www.dualrudder.com/rv7/category/finishing-kit/cowl/ http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=63166&sid=bef7c9f8e58fbefd8adbe3762992418a You can find them for sale here: http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1255367369-486-624&action=search http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/aileronhinge.php Another option http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/camloc2700.php http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/fasteners.html The cam locks should be installed every 3" if you go that way. The piano hinge is not visible to the outside seam. You need to just pull the hinge pin that is made of stainless steel wire. Mine has a eye bent on the end that I unscrew an anchor screw to keep it from moving FWD to the prop. I then just pull it FWD with pliers. As you can see from the photos most use counter sunk rivets to fasten the piano hinge to the cowl. Some people pull the wires to the rear from inside the cabin. enjoy

Some EXP. aircraft have piano hinge style hinge latches. All you do is pull the hinge wire out each side of the hood and lift the hood off. This set up can follow a flat contour. On my RV-4 the hinge pin has a hand ground point to follow the radius.

I did a Jag rear in a Grifith 200 I had years ago.