IamScotticus

@Steve in Lititz PA I have you to thank! I didn't know I needed that part. I was wondering where the clips went

I want to understand this because I will be dealing with it myself and it's my first time hearing about it. The carrier is the plastic housing that the release bearing is set into? Yes/no? I didn't have any clearance issues sliding my release bearing on my GBT9509. Perhaps you're getting a bearing that requires the modification? Which C.R.B. is specified? You must have a pre-remote car.

Steve, My mother said I was almost named Steve... You say you like the gear shift position now? Do you have that remote shifter contraption Cat used? It's a very common solution to the short shifter turret location. I haven't seen a Xflow with a T2 that didn't have a remote shifter... All the Xflow/T9 combos I've ever seen place the shifter directly under the instrument panel tube. I believe Cat sold them this way. I am planning on using the remote with the T9. I won't have that flick shift, but the position will be correct You said Burton says to bore our your bearing? They already sell the solution for this: https://www.burtonpower.com/quaife-alloy-nose-cone-with-steel-over-tube-type-9-5-speed-gbt9509.html I have to say, with the complications of the external slave, why not do the centric slave? Also, have you considered ditching the speedo cable for a GPS speedo or other sensor activated speedo? BIN THE SPEEDO CABLE!

I'm piecing together a T9 swap as well. My 96 Cat has a mount plate installed that should ocomoddate a T9. It's the plate you should get from Cat, Arch or Red Line. You will be using the 1600's flywheel, clutch cover and throw out bearing. Get a new clutch cover, Borg & Beck CP2624/1, Get your flywheel balanced (with the cover on) and surfaced. The clutch disc is a specialty item not standard on any car, except the Nash metropolitan, possibly. It will be a 1600's seven 1/2 inch 190mm diameter with a Pinto 2.0's 1X23 spline. AP 47238 You need the reduced diamter (34mm) bearing slide from Burton or take yours to a machine shop to get it turned down to allow a 1600 release bearing to fit over it. If you have the long shaft (no jokes) V6 T9 (the one Cat used) get a 1" spacer (Burton again) that goes between the box and bell and make sure there is a cut-out in the spacer for the layshaft end cap. If using a centric clutch release, on a V6 T9 you may need a spacer for that too. Note that the threads in the engine block will be imperial and the threads in the bellhousing will probably be metric. The pilot/spigot bearing is the same and the input shaft tip on a V6 T9 may need to be cut back a small amount, I read 10mm. Deal with this before you get to the final bolting together. Get a quality input shaft spline grease. There's a specific tacky grease made for the release bearing and disc to slide on. Don't shoot any lubrication or Solvent onto the pilot bearing! They're pre-packed with grease. If using a cable, get a fork that goes with the bell. I'm not an expert on BHs but I believe the iron Sierra with a right side cable is most common. TracSport in UK has a variety of T9 stuff and bells. Gear kits too, which is something to consider because 1st gear is so low. A gear kit made for 7s evens ratios out to drive like a normal car. That's why the T2 is so nice, it's already perfect ratios. Steve Perks (TracSport) supplied reconditioned T2s and Ital Axles to Cat in the 90s so he's the guru. Also, in the build manual for xflow T9, it says to make a spacer between the mount and bracket. Not sure why. I read somewhere that T9 require RS2000 cable. Not sure why. I will find out. See: https://www.classicfordmag.co.uk/tech/gearbox-tech-ford-type-9-five-speed-guide/ http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=103512 http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=103512&page=3 http://www.topdocsracing.com https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/guides/maintenance/pre-loading-clutch-release-bearing-crb-cable-clutches Pics from Bearingkits.co.uk Here is a Red Line parts list I stole from a poster here: REDLINE CLUTCH PARTS LIST Clutch Plate - Helix 190X23 - 70-1605 Clutch release bearing -Helix - 40-2482 Clutch cover - Helix High Performance - T9 - 60-3329 Spigot bearing - 30E108A Pivot Pin - 6022530 Clutch alignment tool - T-9- AT13T Seal - crankshaft rear Xflow - NA793 Gasket Rear cover Xflow - 5028796 Front Seal Gearbox- 1602036 Gasket bellhousing to T9 (early) - 1632552

Like a Panhard rod, or Watts link system, the A frame's porpoise 🐬 is only to restrict latteral movement while allowing vertical movement as well as arresting axle rotation.

A frame weaknesses have always been the bain of the Seven. I'd say find a talented welder, give him the original A frame to fab up a jig and he build a solid A frame replacement on it. If you order an A frame from Cat, or Arch, you'll probably end up changing the radius arms as well due to a length difference.

Who doesn't want one? This is being clearanced. Ship to store is free. https://www.northerntool.com/products/strongway-adjustable-gantry-crane-2000-lb-capacity-7-87-11-9ft-lift-5071174

Can we get some pics of the back? Engine? Boot?

Are those sun visors available here?

Experimental airplanes rejoice!

Utah is beautiful country for 7ing

With the development of EV components, perhaps it's time to reinvent the S4 as a larger, simpler and friendlier open top, open wheel EV roadster. The S4 wasn't ever a bad design, it was bad timing. .

Do the door windows roll down, this time?

Needs to be available as a kit

Plug first with corrosion prevention on the terminals and isolate well from movement and vibration. Hardwire failing that. There's always a good possibility you will be taking it apart for some reason before any connection problems appear. If the application were an airplane or something which the integrity is critical, I'd say hard wire. But this is a toy.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-lotus-seven-5/

I wouldn't mind upgrading to a larger tank that will fit in the existing bottom bracket

Like horn 🎺 button

Great looking car there

Great article. The comments are the best. Im stealing my new signature from there.

Lotus made a few S3 SS models with twin cam. And there was a premiere show car to introduce the model. I suspect the Nearn family still has it "NRN7" plate. That picture looks like it. The redness was for the show. The mounting of the front amber lamps, louver grille and recessed brake lamps are unique things limited to that model. Only 14 or so were made (officially).

Here for piping and lots of trim https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1943-vinyl-interior-piping

Boot cover black, white piping. Wing piping white. Tonneau, hood and all weather equipment is black. Get with Thundersport https://www.thundersport.co.uk/ Or Arch Motors. Also, pay the money and get on the Lotusandcaterham club so you san post on Blatchat. https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/ Also, there are Lotus clubs all over. Post WTB on them all and you might find some spares. Fleabay too. And PLEASE! Don't paint any chassis or suspension tubes the body color. There is a shade of gray for chsssis. Gray for seeing cracks better. There may have been various shades of gray, it doesn't really matter which exactly.

Very clean. Did yoy have to Tap the frame?

Yes, I'm doing that. Considering annealing the cone to ease it