TheDingo8MyBaby

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How does the pinion mesh with the flywheel? The diameter of the pinion can't just change if it still meshes with the flywheel. I would suspect more that the centerline of the shaft has changed.

Are you sure the shaft is extending far enough? Could it have to do with the mount to the bellhousing? How many teeth are on your pinion?

It was my experience that the motor mount (to clarify - enging mounting rubber instead of the engine mount bracket) on the right side of the car needed to be replaced most often. Instead of ordering from the UK, XKE mounts are the same thing. Found here for pretty cheap: http://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-C18556-Engine-Mount/dp/B0066RVGF4%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAJUWVMOP4RTVDXM2A%26tag%3Dstreetperform-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB0066RVGF4 You also may want to consider adding a large washer over the mount to distribute the load.

http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4431&highlight=Donkervoort This is the only Donkervoort I've ever seen for sale. If I recall, the ask was about $25k in 2009. It had a beautiful aluminum nose and a lotus twin cam and looked to be in excellent condition from the photos.

Yes - I have a 1963 Series 2. It is coming back together slowly, but it's running and driveable. I am happy to meet and talk 7's. I'll PM you my contact info.

A 2001 should have unleaded valve seats, but you never know until you've opened it up... Otherwise, there are a lot of other factors involved (timing, compression etc). I had a '99 Crossflow 1700 Super Sprint that I ran on 91 here in california without any issues.

Here are a few options in the bay area: http://dietschwerks.com/ http://www.spencersmotorsports.com/ http://kampena.wordpress.com/2011/05/21/kampena-motors/ Depending on what you need, I might recommend one of these more than others...

I've never loosened when retorquing. The point of retorquing is to account for any stretch the bolt may have gone through under the heat cycling. I've found that my ARP kent head bolts don't stretch very much - so you're probably fine without retorquing, but that isn't much solace when you're 2000 miles away from home, Gert.

Didn't realize it was an aluminum rail (guess I should have)? Either way, aluminum should be a good choice. Brass would make your rail the anode.

You may want to give raceline a ring and make sure you get the correct size. You may want to consider brass as it is less sensitive to corrosion and they tend to be a bit softer for easier installation.

http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9838 Obviously a list for f1 designers, but lots of these rules apply to our little cars as well. I found in particularly interesting.

Definitely buttonwillow. VARA's british extravaganza is this weekend. Nice shots Mondo. Looking forward to seeing more.

I guess the first question is: How do you know that the carbs are causing the stumble? Have you checked your ignition curve to see where the advance comes in at? If so, where? The link xflow7 provided is a good starting point for our cars, but doesn't tell the whole story. A common cause for the stumble is transition between the idle circuit and mains. This transition can be cured by going to hypojets from keith franck. I don't think the 30mm chokes are your issue, but may not be the right size for power in high RPM. If you really would like to spend the time understanding your carbs, I suggest doing some research here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sidedraft_central/

Probably doesn't hurt to learn how to lap your own valves and set clearances for the next time this happens. Formula Ford guys lap their valves every 10 hours or so.

13" x5.5 magnesium minilites with Hoosier td bais ply racing slicks weigh in at 20.1lbs. I'm curious how much the tires contribute to that number...

Assuming it's a street motor, I had luck with NGK BP7ES. On the track you'll probably want to go to a cooler (8 series in NGK) plug. The EVX series are a little bit more pricey but they did tend to last longer.

Good point Dave. If he has an Aldon distributor, there is a known issue with the advance curve that aldon can remedy quite easily for a few quid.

The compression is certainly an issue...no doubt there, but I may be able to offer you some solace about the carburetor jetting. There is a solution for flat spots on your webers called "hypo-jets" from keith franck. I would suggest joining the yahoo group "sidedraft central" that he moderates. Understandably, these cars require some fettling. To me, some of these aspects add to the charm of ownership, but I can certainly commiserate with explaining the predicament to the wife!

This is my first time commenting on this thread, but I've been watching for a while. It looks absolutely menacing with those wheels. Great looking stalker, first rate work, and I look forward to your in-car with data overlay.

They are made by ART international in Japan Here's the website. I poked around a bit, but couldn't find anything there. http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dtranslate:%2Bhttp://www.artweb.gr.jp/%26espv%3D210%26es_sm%3D93&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=ja&u=http://www.artweb.gr.jp/index.html&usg=ALkJrhjHr4lrUW8irz81w24V_Khwn_8c_w

You should be able to find them several places: bean, redline, etc. May as well upgrade to Chromoly while you're in there (as james suggested). Here's another place http://www.leechapmanracing.com/lotus7.htm You don't need upgraded bearings/hubs, but it's a false economy not to replace the bearings while you're there. If you want to spend some big money, some of these places sell alloy hubs.

I agree the 4ag is a great little motor, but I'm not so sure that final drive is well suited for the 7 (at least coupled with the likely t50 toyota transmission) It looks like a reasonably nice locost, but difficult to tell with those pictures.

Here's a basic example of how they work http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt's_linkage Now instead of controlling the lateral movement of the axle as shown in this article, they control the fore-aft movement. This helps reduce roll-steer. I can't tell you if they would be beneficial or not on a dedion car, however.

Not 100% sure about Series 1 wings, but I would try here: http://www.kineticvehicles.com/Curtis.html http://www.xtraspecialsevens.co.uk/ http://www.mikebrotherwood.com/S17.html Series 2 wings were 7 1/2" standard but s 9 1/2" were supplied as an optional extra later in production. These were flat in comparison to the Series I rear wings. I think the S3 wings are 11" if I'm not mistaken.