fastg

The cams, springs, can chain and followers were installed. It only took about 3 1/2 hours. We used a 'wack it with a hanger' valve keeper tool, it worked perfectly much to our amazement. Forgot to buy a O ring for the front timing cover, so once that arrived the engine should be ready to reinstall. Graham

I was doing a little setup work for the cam swap, engine out, new 6 speed transmission in. I was inspecting the engine and the inlet valves/ports are amazingly clean, looks like they were just installed. Graham

Checkout this listing you will find just about all the cars available. Croc diligently maintains this list, does a great job

Dual lift inlet and exhaust, variable cam timing on inlet. Mapping is complex, you have a map for each lift level and cam timing. You have a low lift 0 degree timing and fuel map. low lift 10 degree timing and fuel, low lift 20 degree timing and fuel, and so on. Then the same for high lift. A LOT of maps, but they is one reason they run so well you can really tune the details. Graham

Being a 2-stroke lover I have always been tempted by a Rotary, but the start have never aligned. The one on BaT looks very nice. Graham

I am sitting at 209 rwbhp I am aiming for 220. The cams should allow it to make hp all the way up to the red line, so the improvements should be very useful. Because the dual lift cams I should pick up power everywhere, no loss of low end power. This is being mated to a new 6 speed box that should give me better ratios out of slower corners, so overall I am expecting big gains. Graham

Parts, gotta love parts. Will install over Xmas and dyno test in the spring. Should really liven up the engine. This package cost twice the amount I paid for the engine:) The engine is a Honda K24A2 out of a 2007 Acura TSX. Graham

I know, someone said they would give him 250 pounds for it:) Graham

The original Locost is for sale. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1556670397899845/user/100041549080164/ Graham

I hope this is not bad news, Tire Rack has always offered great service and an amazing range of tires, I hope it continues. https://www.tirebusiness.com/news/discount-tire-acquire-tire-rack Graham

Front, rear, front. Front up about 2/3 of required height. Back all the way up, back to front to finish the deal. I normally put the fronts by the front suspension suspension mounts, but I have taken the engine out and needed extra room for the cherry picker. Graham

Mine is a solid axle Locost. I life the rear by the diff housing.

I am not sure of the frame layout on Rotus but it probably very similar. I look for frame rail intersections, don't just lift on a single rail. So that would be at the front if the frame around the front suspension mounts, or at the firewall. For the rear I use the rear bulkhead. I also use flat top jack stands not the U shaped of typical stands. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J5ZB8K6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rotus are cool cars, most I have seen are rotary powered, but it sound like you have a cool vintage pinto setup. The Rotus used inboard lever arm shocks, check the upper ball joints, they tend to bend. So make them a maintenance item. Good luck, Dan on this list has a lot on Rotus experience. Graham

I am not sure how a caterham track is mounted, but try and free up one end. The mounting locations might be out of line flexing the track rack, that can cause binding. Graham

I agree with Croc, you on the edge of too lean/detonation disaster. Talk to you engine builder what fuel did they use? Pick a new commonly available race gas, and get a dyno tune so make sure it's compatible. 100 Octane is commonly available I think. Oxygenated gas will give you more power, but it's expensive and not available at every track, you don't want to have to start carrying you own gas supply. We uses to run a VP oxygenated gas in the race bikes, it made your eyes water just fueling the bike up, we had to flush it out of the engine at the end of every race weekend because it caused corrosion. Graham

Very cool, keep up the great work. Amazing pictures. Graham

Tim, I would checkout the Locost list, do a little searching or pose a question, windshields are a common topic. http://locostusa.com/forums Graham

For track days I am not sure side impact is a big deal, racing is totally different. One group I run with has in 16 years only had one car on car incident. I have only seen one on a Parade lap session!!!!! That being said I do have a full cage with increased side impact protection on my Locost, but the side impact was not a big concern. Graham

I like the WCM Ultralite, Roman was at a couple of the NJMP events. It's just about the only 7 that will take the Honda engines. I am having real problems with a K24 in my Locost because of the height on the engines. I think they look good and have good proportions. It sounds like you have the necessary skills, so it sounds like a lowball offer might be the ticket. Graham

Looks great, that's a big torque spike between 4800-5500, should be fun. I owned a DYNOmite morotcycle dyno, in fact I still have the absorber and control unit. Thinking about building an engine dyno one day. Graham

The Stalker has a hood with a scoop as stock, you can get a big V8 or a super changed V6. If you can get a Duratec under the hood of a Caterham you can to the same with a Stalker. The plastic engine cover is loosing you an inch. It would be a major effort to make the change. Graham

They have used the stock oil pan and it looks like they have put the bottom on the oil pan level with the bottom frame rails, the engine is also appears forward in the frame. So your answer is yes, Low profile oil pan, maybe dry sump, let the oil pan hang a little below the frame, move the engine back, not a problem. Intercooler behind the radiator is an interesting choice, and no muffler just a dump pipe. Graham

Sorry I was not there looks like you had fun, I was at Mid-Ohio with a group of friends from Chicago, so I was having my share of fun. Graham

I am not sure how cam timing will effect one cylinder only? Looks like you have a lost spark setup, have you tried swapping the plug leads on a single coil to see if the miss moves, If the miss moves you have a bad coil or a bad plug wire. Graham