fastg

I have two 3D printed parts on the Locost, mounting tabs for the rear lights and a throttle body pulley. The Pulley was a real life saver as the stock Mustang pulley was huge. The other great thing with 3D printing is you can easily change the part and reprint, it took me a couple of attempts to get the perfect size. Graham

The Goblin has quite a following, I expected them to fold but that have continued to make kits. https://www.dfkitcar.com/ Graham

After all sorts of minor issues I took a first test drive on Sunday. I had to 3D print a TB pulley to get full throttle, and the alternator power connection hit the manifold, the fuel rail stand offs were to small, had to swap to studs to get the manifold installed. major grinding on the exhaust flange to port match it, normal stuff. It's rowdy, smoother, much more responsive, VTEC translon was much more noticeable. Scheduled for a dyno tune on the 20th. Will install some big injectors at the dyno shop, I was already getting to the top of the current injectors we had to play with fuel pressure on the last dyno day. Graham

I use Fluid Film as a anti seize coating, spray in on bolts, under wheels and brake rotors, works perfectly. Got that tip of South Main Auto Repair LLC on YouTube. This guy does great impartial reviews. Graham

WCM on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/756244802368272/?mibextid=dXMIcH

Last piece of the puzzle arrived this morning, the CNC matched inlet trumpets for the inlet manifold. The Skunk2 Ultra Race manifold is using a 90mm Ross Machine Racing throttle body. The RMR TB uses a Ford TPS sensor, so yes there will be a single Ford component on my Honda engine. I did pick up a genuine NOS Motocraft unit, and got 2 for safety:) Graham

3 cylinder 900cc 200bhp in stock form. A nice feature is all the ancillaries are within the engine, water pump, oil pump and alternator so no front belt drive. Hooking up a trans could be interesting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iUd8BAVdVw Graham

Enough, is never enough. Graham

Good dyno information, I still own a DYNOmite system. Your engine would be about 250 bhp in real world. The dyno run was done with 170 degree coolant and oil temp on a 66 degree day. Just about all chassis dynos give a higher number than when the engine was installed in the car. The major manufactures got into trouble doing this, many of there cars were downgraded in HP number because they were quoting chassis dyno number. I remember having to replace all the window stickers at a Toyota dealership because of optimistic hp numbers. Still a very stout Ford. Graham

The only problem with the K Series engine is it's very tall, the K24 is about 3/4" taller than the K20. A dry sump system would give you a little but more ground clearance, but not a lot because the bell housing clearance becomes the next issue. Most of the height comes from the cylinder head. You can get a custom cam cover that saves 3/4", it's a lot cheaper than a dry sump system. Oiling is not an issue with a wet sump so a dry sump setup is an expensive luxury. Graham

I run a Kpower conversion on my Locost. I had a prototype KMiata (as it was in those days) adapter plate to do my mockup. Quality stuff but there are a lot of conversions kits available as the K Series is becoming the SBC of the 4 cylinder world. I would suggest you pick the conversion to match the transmission your going to use. The Miata 5 and 6 speeds are good. If you going to do track days go for the 6 speed, but they are getting harder to find. I have a 5 speed sitting in the storage unit. If you going to stick to NA either will do. If you looking for power adders the RX8 or better still the Nissan CD009. The CD009 is very tough, was in a lot of vehicles and can be picked up new for around $2000. I have a complete conversion for a T56 but I will never need that much power capability. The K Series motors are very stout, easy to come by and an amazing availability of parts. OEM Honda parts are surprisingly inexpensive. My engine was out of the 07 TSX, cost me $1k but I sold off the AC, Altanator, PS pump and inlet manifold, so I probably have $500 in the motor. With a set of Drag Cartel cams it dynoed at 240rwbhp. I am currently installing a 4Piston racing head with matching inlet manifold. Checkout Graham

Work is progressing well, ready to start putting it all back together. Off with the head Awaiting there turn Undercut inlet valves All accounted for

My 4Piston Racing cylinder head arrived yesterday, looks amazing they do great work. I new inlet manifold CNC matched should arrive soon. I will be busy this weekend:) This is a K20A2 large port head that I will be putting on my K24A2 block. The K20A2 head swap is the hot ticket, the K24A2 was out of the Acura TSX, Honda gave it smaller ports for more torque to move a heavier door car. The K20A2 is out of the Civic SI or Integra Type S. Graham

Croc is right, this is a major project. Even I would think twice about this and look at local repair before going this far. But I would strip it down to as close as I could to a bare chassis. Build a table, jig it up to get as many reference points as possible before cutting and welding in the new sections. I bet this chassis is not straight to start with, so it's going to be a real can on worms rebuilding it. The LocostUSA.com site has lots of good posts on build tables. Graham

From the Locost list. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/d/seattle-1970s-lotus-seven-series-iv/7573939745.html Interesting, the price is right Graham

I have one of the Gracing shifters I am not using, really tightens up the Miata shift, very well made piece. https://www.gracingshifters.com/ Graham

If you looking to keep originality I understand, but if you want a good light strong axle look to the early RX-7. If you get the GSL-SE model they come with disk brakes and a LSD. They are not a popular item so they can be picked up cheap. I used one got it complete for $75. Graham

Procomp is a UK outfit that builds and supports a lot of car in the Locost race series. I have been talking to Matt one of the founders about building me some shocks. He is not building shocks anymore because of poor health. We was good enough to give me the specs of how he build shocks, I am going to get a set of shocks built to his specs, the information he gave me does not make sense to me I hope it does to an experienced shock builder. But back to sprint rates: for the front it depends on your shock angle from 30-45 degrees the rate is from 325-400, for the rear it's 150. Graham http://procomp.co.uk/

Love Barber, been there on a motorcycle but not a car. The museum is amazing, plan on extra time to visit. My problem is it's a 1500 mile trip early in the year. With big changes happening to the car, engine and suspension, the risk is just to high. I always plan local events in the spring. Graham

I use https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX

The race car guy looks the happiest

McMaster-Carr have an entire section on sealing washers. https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers/sealing-washers-4/ Graham

I would use whatever the remote setup recommend. Using over size lines will not improve flow. Graham

For this time around the goal is 275 rwbhp on pump gas. I will still be using the DC 2.2 cams but they are the best option for the current rpm limit. I want to end in on the 325 rwbhp range. Graham

Typical winter projects. 1. I am actually look inside my junkyard Honda engine, just replacing the head with a rebuilt unit. New inlet, injectors and throttle body, It should be the biggest HP increase so far:) Picked up a used K20A2 head for $150, currently off at 4Piston racing being rebuilt. The K20A2 has larger ports than the K24A2 stock head. 2. New shocks. from Procomp and big UK Locost racing shop. If they will ship to the US, might have to go thru a family member. My current setup is quite soft and I don't like the feel thru high speed corners. 3. Relocate the Tillet brake/clutch reservoir higher up the firewall, instead if being under the air inset pipe. 4. New electronic power cutoff, with a remote switch inside the car. So I don't dislocate me shoulder after getting strapped in and forgetting the switch the car on:) 5. Trim the dash to get better knee clearance. 6. Add padding to the roll cage.