Boxologist

tell 'em to grab their ankles. as for an ingress/egress help, can your left should muscle its way to help with a cane? its more about shifting ur weight, but the other should may not have the strength to begin with for my suggestion.

NY sucks. i think there were 2 listed that were OK in the hudson valley. I had a nice route planned out in Pa. a few years ago that Tom G. and I nearly took. Al may know some nice back roads in NJ.

ran a direct power lead to the ignition. car started to crank fine when teh key was turned. i start finding an electrical specialist today.

intersted in picking up teh blackbird seat if i fit in it, has the crotch strap opening, and has no cracks.

David, i suspect u may also expand ur search. a cayman or boxster may be more comfortable despite the lower performance for your situation. performance AWD? turbo k20 Honda CRX? surprised that that the weather gear isn't up to snuff. while no where near resembling a tin top ability, it has worked OK for the times of severe rain on long trips (> 3hours) where other vehicles wheel spray made for white knuckle driving.

a6 are ur best bet. followed by the kumho v710 and then toyo/nitto r comps. hoosier r25/35/45 are not available beyond 16" diameter. their new r80/100 sompounds are their. goodyear may have some slicks available, but i am not knowledgable with their line of tyres.

odd. i never had issues with my ez pass on my windscreen. how old is that EZ pass(battery life issues)?

update: Today was clear before going into work and had time to check the car. I didn't expect a starter issue as no power was visible with the key turned in the ignition. wacked the started a few times any way, No change in (non)start up behavior. Took the battery booster off teh charger and tested that. No change in (non)start up behavior. Started testing voltages. 1. the 20 amp fuse into the passenger bay shows no power. 2. the big (0?) gauge wire from the battery shows 12+ V at the alternator. a red and green emerge from the alternator. i trust they will have AC power and show me nothing now? the green i was able to track to a connection which seperated and found no voltage. that circuit continued into the engine harness iirc. 3. a second red wire, ~14g into a 5A fuse comes off teh battery and goes directly into the ECU. power makes it to the fuse. 4.Took the wires off the ignition switch. no power in the 3 wires. 5. wasn't in the mood nor the time to randomly strip wires and check for voltage. PS. Mike, bite your tongue.

winnar.

kill off the current autoX tyres on the track. but the toyos will be the best bet if u are only going to have 2 sets of tyres. the hoosier r6 or moving to the r35 compounds would be ur track tyres, but how often are u doing road courses?

belated birthday wishes.

the functioning battery from the subaru has the same result on the 7. 7 won't start. pulled the plastic boot off the switch. it felt like a 4 prong relay, but one prong had no wires leading to it. i never checked the ignition switch when it was OK. I'll get under and take a picture.

Now here's a odd problem. Tried restartring the Caterham last week. The battery had lost the strength to turnit over by itself during the winter and required a boost. Putting the car into gear would cause the car to stall. I checked the battery and the fluid level was low, so I added some deionized water and put the battery in the basement for a day or so on the trickle charger. fast forward a few months, put the battery in and teh car won't start. even worse, NO power whatsoever. the standard tach gauge lights don't register. No sound of teh fuel pump priming. NOTHING. reattach the booster and still nothing. I press the inertia switch, no dice. cleaned the terminals, bolts, nuts, and other leads with steel wool. checked all the fuses, everything OK. voltage across the battery is ~12 volts. other car batteries confirm the meter is in teh ballpark and not in error. in the morning i will going thru the wirring o see if there is a short or something eaten away, but that no power registers has me at a loss. any other fault points that stick out? I can only imagine the ECU as the other part that can kill everything.

congrats.

more sense than using a subaru block. if u can fit a engine i'll take the relatively bigger displacement performance block. its a feat in 7, even an SV, but i guess its much easier in the Stalker and Ultralight chasis.

softbitsforsevens' E bags.

the hot tub in the back...

$54k w/ options for a CSR before engine/tranny from the rmsci calculator, which may be 1-2% higher than CatUSA is charging. I would opt for a a racline 2.0 duratec if u really want power. if u don't care and 160/160 is going to be fine than factory 2.3L is a better cruising engine mated with a type9 for its overdrive. as nice as a design as the Caterham 6 speed is, the lack of an overdriven gear will make any highway crusing longer than 1 hour more than u want.

it would make Luc as electricals look reliable. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/mnewell/dsmcrankwalk3bd_2.jpg looking for an extended rpm range would worse for those blocks. The new 4 cylinder Mitsu block is already in service on the Hyundai Genesis couple in a turbo changed application. since its already been designed by the manufacturer for rwd applications, that may be a better and more cost effective engine if it fits under the bonnet. And teh Duretec is actually a Mazda design.

Ammo hates the 2.3. as of early last year he found all his and other's builds to be limited to just shy of 300hp and were not reliable beyond 8000rpm, if that. he prefered limiting his work to 2.2L builds and thought 2.0 were the best balance of power and rpm range 9000+ was expected last time i checked.

SCCA annual Awards ceremony that day @ GPNY. i may be able to swing by early.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Caterham-Lotus-Seven-7-Headlight-Covers-5-3-4-light_W0QQitemZ290294853315QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item290294853315&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

i'm guess for the uninitiated that the UK plate, the softbitsforsevens cover, the Avon CR500 tyres, and the SV size snout that this not exactly the Rotus. I must of just sounded like Al. anyways, we get to tell someone other than Mazda, "get back to work on the car!" srsly, get the Celica fix0r'd! and besids, there is good knock off of the 7 headlight covers on ebay. doesn't have the piping iirc, but not near JJ's prices.

if i can fit in it, sure.

(Mr) Orange's half dooor attachs in a pretty clever fashion. besides the typical pop snap on the rear, the top leading edge is fastened by a 1/4 turn fastener which make opening and swinging the door upwards quite easy. Al had some pics up of it.