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yellowss7

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Everything posted by yellowss7

  1. Well, we know it won't qualify as a Superlight. I'll guess 1826 pounds with 56/44 front to rear ratio. :leaving: Tom
  2. Early 4th of July present??? :flag: :flag: :flag: :flag: :flag: :flag: Tom
  3. Roman, how about some left foot braking to allow you to keep the right foot on the throttle and keep the revs up?? This also allows you to shift some weight forward to better initiate the turn in too. Don't know if this will exacerbate the oversteer but its worth a try. Tom
  4. Roman, Dave H. co-drives Rob's red Solstice. He's pretty good too, if he only beat you by 6/10s then you've made great progress. Tom
  5. That instructor wasn't Corey. Yeah, you might want to check your ride height, and rake, as possible issues with the oversteer. Check how much higher the rear is vs. the front. As for the pulling when braking, are you sure you were straight when you hit the brakes? If you were braking when turning, your back end would kick out a bit. Tom
  6. Roman, sounds like you had a good time. I wanted to watch you but I had an early tee time and was wiped out by the heat :ack: so didn't stop by. That Boeing lot is known for it's poor surface, most B mod guys won't run there. If you Beat Corey Ridgick's time without slicks then you are really ready for the Big Time. (if that's the Evo you're referring to?) Corey is a Top National level driver. I'm sure that the instructors liked driving your 7. Did the oversteer issue you had your first time out surface again? See you at Warminster on July 13th. Can't wait to see the improvement. Tom
  7. I kept a log of my Caterham build. I completed the build in a total of 80 hours. Build manual was adequate. Help from BlatChat was excellent. Nice thing is that all the parts are included and you basically assemble it. Torque figures are included in the manual. Hardest part is identifying the right fasteners to use. Very limited mechanical skill required, if you can read instructions and aren't afraid to drill a few holes in your brand new fenders and aluminum skin. IMO Tom
  8. :flag: :flag: :flag: God Bless America! (and Mazda)
  9. Alright Gary, which way is Ohio going? I think Pa is going to reverse course and go for McCain. Tell me which way you think Ohio is leaning. (do it before they lock this thread):leaving: Tom
  10. :toetap: :bs: :rant: :cuss: :banghead: :boxing: Does that sum it up? I had a really bad experience with a Caterham Dealer when I ordered my Kit. Some of these guys are just..... :_deadhorse: Never mind :leaving: Tom
  11. They are the right ones. Just get them in the 25A or B compound. That's the softest. Depending on what part of the country you're in, that may even be too soft. And they could heat up too much. But you can wet them down between runs if that becomes a problem or go up to the 35 compound. Here in Pa. they work well in all but the very early and very late autoxes in NOV. Then it's tough to keep the heat in them, but everyones tires have that problem. Tom
  12. Assuming you are doing SCCA autoxing, a nice sticky wide set of Hoosier slicks. Full slicks are allowed in DMod. Tom
  13. By Oversteering you mean that the rear is rotating,correct? If that's the case then you may want to check if you have a rear antiroll bar, what setting it it on, and if there is room soften it a bit, by moving the setting back one position. What toe setting are you running? You may want to dial in a little toe in to reduce tramlining. No experience on the particular tires. Tom
  14. Nice runs, car sounds good. I see what you mean about the tires not griping. A new set of slicks will fix that. Paint it yellow, and it will be faster too. Tom
  15. It's Paint code FE102 Giallo. I called Ferrari for the code so that Caterham painted it the right color. Tom
  16. I run 13 inch Avon CR500's and run 18 psi cold all around on the street. Autoxing I run Hoosier slicks that I run at 12-13 psi cold. I'd definately drop them down to 20 or so to start. Tom
  17. Demo, come on out to the next Philly Region SCCA Autox, in Warminster on July 13th. EvilRome0 and I will probably be there so you can see an Ultralight and a Caterham up close. Tom
  18. Congrats!!!!!!:hurray: Now be safe out there!!! And watch out for those bumpers that sometimes fall off. Tom
  19. Great turn out guys!! I hope we can get at least that many out to a Philly region event some day. Tom
  20. That's Jack Banha's S4. He bought it with 700 miles on it a few years ago. Very original. The S2 is driven by a guy from NJ. He's been autoxing that car for around 30 years. A pretty good driver too. Sorry I missed it, weather was great. I'll make the next meet. Tom
  21. Aw cmon, how bad was it? :ack: Tom
  22. WOW Martin.:shocked: :flag: I salute you. That's an amazing documentary. Mine came skinned, painted, dash wired, fuel tank plumbed. All I really did was assemble the suspension, drop in the engine,gearbox,and diff. and add lights,seats, rollbar,seat belts and front and rear wings and windscreen. Done. Tom
  23. The standard Caterham dash layout is available in either leather/pleather, or you can order a Carbon dash. If you splurge for a Stack dash cluster then you probably will also do it in carbon. I think caterham sell a blank dash and I know that Carbon Bits.com sell both blank and custom carbon dashes. The Caterham kit comes wired with the dash and gauges in place. IMO, you assemble a Caterham, the guys that build Locosts, really do Build them. Tom
  24. Sorry, I was just commenting that a ton of stuff still gets in with clams.
  25. Sean wrote: Eh, Wrong. Even with just the street Avon CR500's on, I still get a ton of grit thrown up and into the car. With the sticky wide slicks, the amount of stuff that enters the car is tremendous. A helmet with a full shield is highly recommended. I don't know how bad it gets with cycle wings.
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