yellowss7

Seat bottom pic keeps failing to upload. I'll keep trying. Tom

Hope these help.

Here's one pic. Hopefully I can load the others

Adam, sorry, but for some reason it won't let me upload the pictures. The process was to fill the bag with the foam beads, to a level that fills the space you are trying to fill. Test fit it to get it spread out just right. Mix the epoxy and pour it into the bag, kneeding the beads to thoroughly coat them. I used about a pint of the epoxy for the seat bottom. Again put the bag in the car and spread the beads out to fill the space and then sit in it to form the seat. Attach the vacuum to the one way valve and turn on the vacuum. Beads will squeeze together as the air is sucked out. Wait for it to cure. Before you start, put your favorite beverage, your phone, a book and some earplugs within easy reach. Also be able to reach the vacuum to turn it on and off. Took about 40-60 minutes for my epoxy to harden up. Wear long pants, because as the epoxy cures it heats up. I wore shorts and almost had to bail as it got pretty hot. I'll keep trying to post the pics. Tom

Adam, I don't have a spare seat bottom for you, but just this afternoon I made a Foam bead/epoxy seat to get me lower in the car as well. I used foam beads for stuffing bean bags, a large "space saver bag" The kind you see on TV ads with a one way valve for attaching a vacuum. And a two part epoxy. Worked pretty well for an hour's worth of work and a few bucks, $15 for the foam beads, $12 for 2 bags,$24 for a quart of the epoxy and hardener. It is curing overnight and then I will cover it with some nomex cloth if this first attempt is acceptable. Tom

Just an observation from your photo. I don't believe you use the pop rivets in the installation of those buttons. The Dura Dot tool you have there is what is used. Sorry if you already knew that. You will have to drill a hole in the carbon to insert the button with the post then on the other side fit the bottom button. Use the dish shaped part of the tool on the top button, and the punch tool to peen over the post. Tom

Beautiful day here in Philly, 74 degrees, blue skies, and a tank full of gas.:driving: I have a track day with the Aston Martin owners club and the Lotus club on Thursday at New Jersey Motorsports Park, so I thought I would do a quick shakedown run to make sure everything is ready for the track. Great day out. Met a guy out in an MGB and had some fun in the twisties. Lots of waves and all in all a nice blat. All pressures, temps came up nicely. Just changed the R888s over to the Hoosier slicks and one final bolt and nut check and it will be ready to load in the trailer. They are accepting last minute applications for the track day if anyone is interested. Weather looks promising. Tom

Yeah, one of my buddies who has a boxster did that once and I said "what's the matter?" He said, " you missed your braking point" and I said, "you're just not use to a car that handles well":smilielol5: For some reason he didn't think that was funny. Funny thing was, that I wasn't even pushing it.:cooldude: Tom

Here are a couple of pics that better show that a wide track front suspension does fit with clams.

Pics sent. And no there are no clearance issues even with the 10 inch wide Hoosier slicks, although they do stick out a bit. Tom

I ordered my 2000 Cat from Caterham with the Wide track and Clams. To the best of my knowledge I was one of the first to do it. I sent pics to some of the guys on Blatchat to prove that it does fit. Just. Although with the 10 inch slicks, not so much. Tom

Michael, Say it's not so!!!!

Sounds like a call to Simon at QED is in order. Sorry for your loss. :ack: http://qedmotorsport.co.uk/the-engines/vauxhall-xe-c20xe/alloy-block In a joint venture with Millington Engineering our Aluminium Alloy Cylinder Block for the Vauxhall XE engines has been re-designed to take full advantage of state of the art casting and machining technologies. The new blocks are still designed as a direct replacement for a standard 2L block and can be used with standard components for an overall weight saving of 19kg. For an oversquare engine the alloy blocks can be supplied for a bore size up to 88mm. For ultimate capacity stroke can also be increased to 94mm giving a maximum capacity of 2.3 litres. Fixed ‘through bolt’ design provides head and sump studs for race engines. The standard mountings for a Vauxhall bellhousing are complimented by additional mounting points for the common Ford bellhousings allowing use in an even wider range of applications. QED XE Alloy Block £2450.00 + VAT Link to Vauxhall parts cataloge http://files.qedmotorsport.co.uk/vauxhall_c20xe_pricelist.pdf These guys built my K series motor. Tom

I don't care who you are, "that there's funny". Tom

Do it Dean, I remember the smile on your face at Barber. :jester: I'm going to sign up again. And I'll make sure that I buy another set of arm restraints so that I don't have to borrow one of your sets again. Tom

Ok, guys, I just noticed that the Registration form and other details are now posted re: LOG 30 in Gettysburgh Pa. For those of you who might be attending, what's the plan re: Dinners? I'll assume Friday night's reception is free so for those coming in on Friday, that's a no brainer. Saturday, the lunch at the concours was a good deal last year so, again, since it's on site, another no Brainer. Saturday is the main dinner, and Sunday night is a barbeque buffet. Question is will those attending do both dinners, Saturday only, Sunday only or neither. I'm sure we could also go offsite for a dinner as a group if there was interest. How many USA7er are planning on attending? Are we going to do anything as a 7's group? Any thoughts? Tom

Whoops, I meant 680 not 625. My bad. Tom

Odesssey PC625 works nicely for me. Although I did mount it down low under the intakes. Tom

If I recall correctly the difference between SA and M helmets is their fire safety. I think SA helmets have Nomex liners and M don't. Tom

Skip, I have a set of Barnby and a set of Kodiak wheels although both are 13 inch. Both are high quality wheels. Tom

A brief intro on what these cars are about? Simple. Light weight, handling, and lots of smiles. For the most part it's power to weight, Incredible handling and because of the light weight, really late braking. These factors help these little cars outperform most cars. You don't NEED high horsepower, although it helps on the straights on track. Your corner entry and exit speeds are usually far higher than most other cars, driver skills being equal. You can build a monster, but can you drive it? A well set up 135-150hp seven in a good drivers hands is a very capable machine. Alakossies right, get in a few, and see what they can do. And he's right that you can buy one built waaay cheaper than building your own. There are a couple of nice cars currently for sale on this site for starters. You wouldn't go wrong with either of them. Good luck Tom

Congratulations! Always brings a smile to my face too. Ten years in and I still grin like a fool every time out. Enjoy!!! Tom

Box, you have a PM. Tom (sorry for the hijack)

Mazda, why are you bothering with a hood scoop? The Blower will NEVER fit under it. :willy_nilly: Tom

Russ, then the easy solution is to take the rear wings off. Unless you have a bunch of real sticklers, they usually don't care. Especially if your first time. If you do decide to leave the wings on, take out the steel bolts and replace them with a few Plastic/nylon ones. You only need about 4-5 to hold the wing on just fine. That way if you do hit a cone the bolt breakes and doesn't pull the rivenuts out of the skin. The Wings are easy to refiberglass. That one's been done atleast 3 times. It's alot heavier now though. :jester: The nylon/plastic bolts are a good idea even if you don't autox as they won't corrode and get stuck in the rivenut. Go out and enjoy that car!!! Tom