mrmustang

Did you try to just swap the title over before you went the enhanced inspection route? Bill S.

This is the car out of Maryland/Delaware that sold for $18,900 off craigslist I believe. Only warning is not about the car, but the seller, who is known to shill his own auctions. Car itself was clean, and well built when I saw it three years ago. If I had not had the Birkin (69 Shelby, 4 miatas, two Cobra replicas, and an 80's Mustang convertible) at the time, I might have bought it on the spot. I suspect the car will get magically bid up to 25-28K the last day, but will not meet the hidden reserve Bill S.

Any updates? Or, are you going to start a new thread after you wipe the smile off your faces? Bill S.

On the BAT car, one has to assume that it has a hidden reserve since it is not specifically stated as a "no reserve" auction. 22K would indeed be a bargain. If I had the indoor storage space, I'd be in the running.

Yup, bottom line, don't go back to that shop, but do put your town name in your location profile so we can guide you in to not making the same mistake again. Bill S. PS: From hands on experience, both Birkin and Caterham VIN profiles are already in the PA title system, and properly built, will pass the enhanced inspection process, doors, or no doors.

If it's not on the inspection form, then they will not be checking it. To stop or call and ask questions opens up a Pandora's box as now you have alerted them to things they may have overlooked in the past, and will scrutinize everything much harder from now on. Or, they may think you are a government employee calling in to spot check their work. One of my out of state cobra replicas was "borrowed" for such a thing back in the mid 2K's with a shop that is no longer in business just west of KOP. Bill S. PS: Don't over think it, if buying a previously titled car, just get the title swapped over. Then have a local garage do the regular inspection. Only if the title is kicked back do you need to go through the enhanced inspection (less than an 30 minutes). Yes, it really can be that simple.

Also used Blast from the Past (6 years ago) for my enhanced inspection. My advice on the title swap is to go to your local tag shop (if close to Pottstown, PA area, PM me and I'll send you to the tag place with the most kit car experience) and attempt the basic title swap. If it gets bounced back by Harrisburg (10% of the time from my experience), then you can go through the "specialty construction" process. The SC process in PA is painless, and when you are done, the car is emissions exempt for life. Bill S.

Rich, I cut the rest of your post out, as this is the only line that seems to cut to the quick. While I've read all of the responses so far, not one has stated the following, so I will: "If you are looking at the car as an investment, and you are worried about depreciation, you are buying the car for the wrong reason" With that said, depreciation on a toy such as a "7" replica (figure a nice Birkin, or a SPF S1 in your project price range), if bought used, and bought right, will be a basic wash (minus insurance.taxes,basic maintenance) when it's time to sell. Too many other factors will come in to play, color combination, drivetrain, suspension set up, whether it's a stripper, or fully loaded, all of these and about 100 more, so to respond other than I have would be a waste of my time, and foolish on your part to read any further into it. Buy it, drive it, enjoy it. When it comes down to it and you decide to sell, see what the market is at that time and price the car accordingly. Yes, it really is that simple. Bill S.

From experience with Cobra replicas, PA has one of the easiest programs out there. Call Harrisburg's main DMV office and ask them to send you the "specialty construction" package. Follow the package and you'll be fine. Build the car to actually pass the initial safety inspection and the car is then emissions exempt for life while in PA Bill S.

I know you can get customs to waive certain regulations as far as importing for "display" or "racing" purposes only. Not certain about what happens with the car once it is on the beach here 9so to speak) and then turns 25 years old. Your best bet will be to contact the appropriate US customs office. Either that, or maybe check out the following: http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/import/ Bill S.

Any chance you have, or no someone with a fixed base belt sander that you could use to smooth that surface a bit? if it was me, I would not use that without at least a quick sand down. Maybe bring it to a metal working shop if you have to

Bottom line these days (after changes made in April 2016), if buying a car using a modern day drivetrain, you are forced to use the new and improved NJ "Kit Car" process. A call to the NJ DMV 609-292-6500 (extension 5064) will get you the "Kit Car Package", follow the instructions enclosed, and you'll be good to go. If you are buying a previously titled car out of state with a modern drivetrain installed, you will either have to pass emissions inspection (OBD style port required, along with a trip to your friendly neighborhood reinspection station if you fail the state emissions test), or you may have to go through the NJ "kit car" process and have the car reclassified in the system. If you are buying a car with a vintage drivetrain (pre-1976), then you'll need to provide a letter to the DMV so they can base their emissions (in their system)testing off the year of the engine block. Worst case scenario, you'll have to petition the NJ DMV and go through the NJ kit car process from scratch. Not has hard as it was in the past, but can be tedious and time consuming. Bill S.

:jester:

Great....

California is actually getting easier these days, do a search of "SB100"

Location plays a big part of your lack of interest No brakes... The single nature use of the trailer is also a limiting factor, as there is not much else that will safely fit on it besides the 7 Just my personal observation

Having driven the several of the 2005/2006 and several 60's originals at speed on various tracks, and having had the pleasure of driving both on the street at various touring events, personally, I'd rather have the 2005, or a 60's version over the new one (only able to sit in a pre-production car as of today). Call it a personal preference, but I prefer the cleaner body style of both the previous versions and do not believe I need to "audition" to own a new one just so I can say "yet, it's mine" so I can have my ego stroked...... Bill S.

Don't feel bad for Skip, I am getting my 95M ready for sale, it is my 53rd documented Miata since 1990 As for Laguna Blue, I've owned 10% of the "R" production of them, a few standard black interior ones, and four tan interior ones. Laguna Blue is my favorite

Blasphemy I say, I think you are a closet Laguna Blue lover...LOL!!!!!!!

Now if it was only 1994/1995 Mazda Laguna Blue

Skip, I think Kevin has had enough Miata drivetrains since selling me his two 91 BRG's :rofl: Besides, he likes BRG, and yours is more a cross between Grabber and Mariner Blue :smilielol5: Bill S.

With all of the Cobra replicas and Lotus 7 replicas I brought them, taught them, and walked them through, Commonwealth in Ptown is well broken in ........ Bill S.

HHHmmm, looks just like my first one..... Bill S.

I also recommend using "Commonwealth Auto Tag" on High Street in Pottstown, as I have them well trained when it comes to kit cars . Bill S.

Ever since the "Titles Unlimited" vs California fiasco, most if not all states watch for such paperwork, and can in some case flag the title, and send the car to the impound until everything gets straightened out. Guilty until proven innocent in those cases. I do not suggest that route. As for the PA title process, it's simple, easy, and spot on as posted above. While living there (I also used Blast from the Past), I went through the process with three Birkins, and over a dozen Cobra replicas without an issue. Bill S.