Help picking a tow vehicle and trailer for my Caterham

[savagete2860]

Good stuff @Timothy Keith-Lucas appreciate the photos.  Guessing you pull the cars all the way to the front? I like the winch idea too.

 

@bball7754 your trailer is awesome. I might have to at least try and get an estimate for something similar from them to compare to a standard enclosed trailer.

 

@Davemk1 I 100% agree with everything you said and appreciate your anecdote. Tongue weight in the safe rage is a must for me - especially being new to towing. Your situation with needing to add things in front to hit 12% tongue weight make me a little worried about a v nose enclosed trailer where the car will probably be further rearward compared to an open trailer.

 

@Vovchandr In your trailer photos your car looks pretty forward as well - have you ever measured your tongue weight? Are you able to hit 10%+ tongue weigh just by pushing the car forward?

[Davemk1]

1 hour ago, savagete2860 said:

 

@Davemk1 I 100% agree with everything you said and appreciate your anecdote. Tongue weight in the safe rage is a must for me - especially being new to towing. Your situation with needing to add things in front to hit 12% tongue weight make me a little worried about a v nose enclosed trailer where the car will probably be further rearward compared to an open trailer.

 

 It's something to keep an eye on. Remember that it's where the car sits relative to the trailer axle that is the important thing. Some trailers are build with the axle more forward or back compared to others.

 

dave

 

 

[Vovchandr]

1 hour ago, savagete2860 said:

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@Vovchandr In your trailer photos your car looks pretty forward as well - have you ever measured your tongue weight? Are you able to hit 10%+ tongue weigh just by pushing the car forward?

 

I measure my weight. It's pretty easy to hit 10% by putting spares and tools up front and not having the car at the very back on my 18ft.  

 

 

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

Personal opinion, I think that you have a fair amount of leeway here, to the point that I would not worry about it. If when you have everything loaded up the rig is out of balance, you'll know it and can shift your tools and spare tire, or even shift the vehicle it self. In the future, you'll know how to load it. Negative tongue weight and neutral tongue weight is obvious - the tongue rises and the back end of the trailer hits the dirt. That will result in lateral oscillations that are scary. If you experience that, just stop.  Don't counter-steer, which will increase the oscillations. Too much tongue weight means that the rear end of the towing vehicle is depressed, the headlights point out owls, and steering and braking becomes a problem because the front wheels aren't making contact with the road. For both of our trailers tongue weight is above what one person can lift.

 

Calculations of ideal tongue weight seem to leave out the characteristics of the towing vehicle's suspension. Best tongue weight for our Ford F150 and for our Dodge Caravan would be different. In both cases you want the towing vehicle to drive normally, so think in terms of the normal rear end load - a pile of dirt in the bed or two kids in the rear seat. Load up and then look at the rig from the side. Does it look OK? Then drive about a bit. Did it sway or under steer? Did it try to swerve when you put on the brakes? 

 

If you do feel the need to measure tongue weight, you're probably in the range of a bathroom scale. 

[KnifeySpoony]

Why not load the car in backwards to increase tongue weight? 

[SENC]

On 11/26/2025 at 6:13 PM, Vovchandr said:

10% tongue matters for cars where limit is close to what you're towing. Barely matters on a full size truck or likely even quarter ton. 

Agree with pretty much everything else Vov posted, but tongue weight is important regardless of tow vehicle.  You may not feel the issue as much in a more competent vehicle, but missing materially on tongue weight matters from a safety perspective. 

 

I have a 14ft enclosed aluminum trailer (R&R custom built).  Love it, easy to load and balances well.  Weighs just over 2k lbs, as I recall, so well under 4k total with the Seven and fuel/tools loaded.  Tandem axles and brakes all around.

 

I've towed long distance with my wife's X3 (4,400 lb rating), and won't do it again.  It is doable and safe if you get the balance right and stay below 60-65, but that isnt a safe speed if you're on the interstate (IMO).  Definitely wouldnt do it without a camera in the back of the trailer for rear visibility on the highway.  On the other hand, towing with my LR3 (7,700 lb rating) is a breeze and very comfortable (if the trailer is balanced), even up to 75 or 80.  I still won't do a long trip without a rear camera - while visibility is loads better than the X3, the way people tailgate these days I'm just not comfortable without a clear view. The only time I've felt uncomfortable towing with the LR3 was when I loaded a Mercedes 560SL into the trailer and was right at my rated limit - I didn't go over 55 or 60 and stayed on back roads.

 

I guess what I'm getting at is that I think you're headed towards a compromise solution (small vehicle, big trailer) that, while doable and safe (with effort), may be unsatisfactory if you're using it much or over long distances.  Personally, if I were limited to our X3, I would 100% opt for the smallest, single axle, open trailer I could fit my Seven on, loading support gear into the X3.  That would make towing many times more comfortable than pulling an enclosed.

Edited November 30, 2025 by SENC

[IamScotticus]

Aren't there stabilization kits available?

[Vovchandr]

Dont overthink it

 

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

Towing a Seven with a Miata might put the Miata's clutch at risk, but whatever floats your boat. Yes, an open single-axle utility trailer (6x12, very common) is the cheapest and lightest way to go. Rigging up tie-downs is one trip to Harbor Freight. Weld a little winch on the tongue and replace the very heavy tailgate with aluminum ramps. That's what I did and it works.  I do know how much each trailer and car weighs, and that's important, but I have no idea what the tongue weights are other than they 1. are substantial, and 2. do not interfere with the handling of the towing vehicle.

 

Vovchandr is right. Don't overthink it. Buy a trailer the car will fit on/in and work out how to load it and tie it down.

[Vovchandr]

Full disclosure: Miata above is for funnies. I believe the source of the image said its AI, and even if it isn't, its likely just a Miata just backed up to a trailer for a staged photo. 

 

For the @savagete2860 on a serious note. I'm an overthinker like you. I tell myself why bother doing something if it isn't the optimal path and then have regrets and/or have to redo stuff. Smartest way to go is just to plan it right and do it once.

 

I planned for YEARS to be towing that big enclosed 18ft aluminum trailer above with my Volvo XC70 Wagon. I custom wired 7pin harness, I bought the rare 2in towing hitch for it, I bought weight distribution hitch, spring helpers etc. The car has a limit of 3500 with a hard tongue weight limit of 165 lbs, which as you can imagine really conflicts with the 10% rule. All the mods I've done were unrelated but were going to help with towing. R Brembo brakes help stop with trailer, 6 speed manual helps solve issues of automatic overheating, R motor helps with moving the weight around. 

 

In the end the project took so long that our family ended up acquiring the XC90 SUV which has a limit of 5000 and can actually to trailer just fine. I can still likely use the XC70 to move the empty trailer around as needed but I hope I don't have to find out how capable or not the under built XC70 is for that job. (I've towed smaller open trailers with it just fine and a smaller enclosed with motorcycles). 

 

In short, my advice for vehicle is anything thats 5000lbs should suffice unless you plan to have a steel enclosed. For trailer sizing I still recommend enclosed if budget allows and you're best asking around for best size. V nose help add some room and makes towing easier. 

Edited December 2, 2025 by Vovchandr

[CarlB]

I have had a trailer going out of control because the load shifted and it lost tong weight. DO NOT STEP ON THE BRAKES, AND DO NOT MAKE ANY FAST MOVES. SLOW DOWN SLOWLY AND KEEP IT IN A STRAIT LINE. This was with a 3/4 ton Suburban and a 7 thousand gross weight two axle trailer. I had 3 chevy engines in the back and they shifted so two were behind the axles. 

[11Budlite]

1 hour ago, CarlB said:

I have had a trailer going out of control because the load shifted and it lost tong weight. DO NOT STEP ON THE BRAKES, AND DO NOT MAKE ANY FAST MOVES. SLOW DOWN SLOWLY AND KEEP IT IN A STRAIT LINE. This was with a 3/4 ton Suburban and a 7 thousand gross weight two axle trailer. I had 3 chevy engines in the back and they shifted so two were behind the axles. 

 

Just to add my 2 cents to the above recommendation. If you have electric brakes with a manual lever, you can help eliminate sway by applying just the trailer brakes while slowly easing off the gas. I have my brake controller mounted where I can easily reach it and it's become second nature to me. Thankfully with a 4500# truck and a #2100 car/trailer combo loaded properly, sway has not been an issue. 

[S1Steve]

1 hour ago, 11Budlite said:

 

Just to add my 2 cents to the above recommendation. If you have electric brakes with a manual lever, you can help eliminate sway by applying just the trailer brakes while slowly easing off the gas. I have my brake controller mounted where I can easily reach it and it's become second nature to me. Thankfully with a 4500# truck and a #2100 car/trailer combo loaded properly, sway has not been an issue. 

That’s the same brake controller that I have used on 3 different vehicles I’ve towed with. I thought it was expensive when I bought it. It works well, without any problems….  So well worth it..

[11Budlite]

12 minutes ago, S1Steve said:

That’s the same brake controller that I have used on 3 different vehicles I’ve towed with. I thought it was expensive when I bought it. It works well, without any problems….  So well worth it..

Agreed Steve. I've had it since 2007 and it's been flawless.

[Timothy Keith-Lucas]

Savagete, your cheapest working enclosed trailer is a 7x12 single axle with a V nose (for the winch). Here's one for $4,500:

 

https://sleequipment.com/products/enclosed-trailer-7x12-7x12ec?variant=44752867328181&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21382879339&gbraid=0AAAAADsodPoRr5D06suEGRV-OJ5ItoRmN&gclid=Cj0KCQiAubrJBhCbARIsAHIdxD-6eR2gJ41YQvnmpQYDbHP42jAPqJLZXAv2f7A_BPRB7qR34DcVaXgaAqsHEALw_wcB

 

Your Cat is 5'7" wide and 11'0" long. It will fit. Keeping it to a single axle lightens the trailer to your towing advantage. You can't get through the door of a 6x12 because it's 5'2 1/2" wide. The door width on a 7x12 is about 6'2"

 

Believe me, I researched this issue every way and sideways to find the cheapest good way for us to move our two antique cars. The 7x12 enclosed and the 6x12 utility trailer will haul either the Seven or the Ford Model T. Most trips the T is in the enclosed trailer and the Seven is on the utility trailer. 

 

 

 

 

[savagete2860]

I appreciate everyone indulging me. I am 100% over thinking all of this, to the point of analysis-paralysis probably. At the end of the day, I just want the smallest enclosed trailer that can fit my Caterham, its weather gear, aeroscreen, and a spare set of wheels. This thread has helped me understand that a 7x12 or 7x14 would probably work for my use, and looking around that should put me at a weight that is close to 3000lbs, give or take a bit going the aluminum route. @Vovchandr has been saying 5k lbs tow limit or more for a vehicle, and that seems to add up with what others have been saying, so I think I need to look at a midsize truck vs a "trucklette" like the Maverick, unless I 180 and go for an open trailer.

 

I will continue to ponder... still open to more suggestions, comments or advice. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Vovchandr]

9 minutes ago, savagete2860 said:

I appreciate everyone indulging me. I am 100% over thinking all of this, to the point of analysis-paralysis probably. At the end of the day, I just want the smallest enclosed trailer that can fit my Caterham, its weather gear, aeroscreen, and a spare set of wheels. This thread has helped me understand that a 7x12 or 7x14 would probably work for my use, and looking around that should put me at a weight that is close to 3000lbs, give or take a bit going the aluminum route. @Vovchandr has been saying 5k lbs tow limit or more for a vehicle, and that seems to add up with what others have been saying, so I think I need to look at a midsize truck vs a "trucklette" like the Maverick, unless I 180 and go for an open trailer.

 

I will continue to ponder... still open to more suggestions, comments or advice. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glad you're narrowing the parameters down.

 

Didn't realize Maverick is either 2k or 4k weight, I thought it would be 5k all day long.

 

One more thing to ponder on, which I didn't even realize and don't really follow at this time.

 

When you're doing marginal towing like your planning to, trailer sway control help can be purchased via most weight distribution hitch attachments. Pretty expensive purchase but it helps your car stay level and helps with trailer sway. Accident is much more expensive than the unit.

 

With that said, here's the caveat. You aren't supposed to use these on aluminum trailers officially. Aluminum won't transfer torsion forces as well as steel. I didn't realize this. I still have one as a backup if things get hairy, I'd rather have marginal torsion problem than a lose trailer problem but I certainly don't use these by default at this moment. 

 

Also dont rule out SUV's if that fits better with your year round use. If you don't need a bed, many SUVs have 5000lbs plus capacity even in unibody.