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If I had a nickel for every time that I missed the point i'd ... probably waste it all all on cars. No offense taken or intended, my friend. Good luck to all of us as we continue to tame these cars that are so amazing and so frustrating.

Jmaz ... I just installed the steering column and your post gave me one of those "I'm so dumb" moments. In my case, I reasoned that since the tie rod ends were 12 turns out ... I *assumed* that meant they were both the same distance from rack center and by measuring the wheels straight ahead (ref. rotor edge to front lower wishbone bolt) I could set the wheel straight and then insert the lower column in the rack at that position. Done. But, of course there is that assumption in there ... Long story short (the detail is updated on my blog post) based on your comment I went back, taped a zip tie indicator to the steering hub and looked for how that ended up when at full lock each way. Sure enough it was almost (but not quite) even; full lock right was about 15deg right from vertical whereas full lock left was about 5deg left from vertical ... I was close, but no cigar. So, disassembled (hey, loctite works!) and moved the lower column one spline CW and, bingo, I was there!

x Sorry, your tangent threw me and I assumed that was a generalization. I should have read it more closely. I took the car for a longer drive today and can confirm that vibration is now reduced to inconsequential levels. When it did vibrate, it wasn't enough to distort the view, and the rest of the time, it was rock steady. After more than 25 years of se7en ownership, this is a first.

Finally got my S2 home to AZ from Florida. It's not finished but is no longer just a jumble of near worthless parts. The left clamshell is not Lotus, has a curved mounting surface and no depression for the clamp. I will therefore need an appropriate replacement and will consider a pair if that is the only alternative. Additionally, the windscreen stanchions have gone and I'll be in the market for a pair.

The build continues to progress at a very gradual (comfortable for me) pace. No problems so far. Steps completed to date include front suspension, engine+trans, roll bar, steering, heater, throttle cable, front lights (although not yet connected to the Econoseal connectors), other engine electrical connections, 4-point belts (will install crutch straps when I get them from Josh at RMC as part of my original order), Next on the list is radiator+fan install and engine plumbing. Here are a few things I've noted with some of the recent work: Headlight Wiring: I could have done a much better job of making the wires a more even length prior to heat-shrinking everything. At some point, I'll probably re-do the pins to shorten and even out the wiring into the Econoseal connectors. I'm debating whether to put the stock headlights in place or spend the money now for LED upgrades before final headlight assembly (I'm considering the Morimoto Sealed6 lights, wired for turn signal + DRL function). Steering Centering: Trying to center the steering (in the process of installing the steering column) by counting steering U-joint rotations between full left and right lock didn't seem precise enough, so I used the method shown in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEPW0Zz8qoU which involved sliding the boot(s) off the steering rack, and then measuring the distance between the steering rack stops. It might be enough to measure the distance at full stop in one direction and then just divide by two, but I measured both sides of the steering rack to play it safe. The maximum travel was 10 cm on each side, so I set a distance of 5 cm per side to center the steering. U-joint and Steering Column Alignment: It's recommended that, if necessary, the steering rack be rotated on its long axis to get as straight as an alignment as possible along the steering rack U-joint and the lower steering column. Even with the rack mounting brackets very loose, I was having trouble rotating the rack until I realized that I also needed to loosen the lock nuts at the tie-rod ends so that the rods could rotate along with the rack. Probably should have been obvious, but I'm finding that, for me at least, I'm saying "duh" to myself quite a bit during this build. Upper Steering Column Bush: Most people note that it takes some force to push the rubber bush with its white insert into the dashboard opening for the upper steering column. I struggled with this for awhile until I noticed that there were some small spikes of powder coat in the dashboard's bush housing. After lightly sanding those off using a Dremel with a drum sander bit, and also using the suggestion of inserting a 1/2" ratchet extension through the bush to provide something to push against, the bush went into place with moderate force applied (https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2020/01/29/steering-column/) Battery Cables: the kit came with two black (ground) battery cables of different lengths. I wasn't sure which was meant for which grounding point, but only one of the cables (the longer one) has a fitting with a big enough hole to fit one of the transmission tunnel bolts through if you decide to use that as a grounding location.

Took it to the All British/European car show. Hung out with some real Lotus cars.

I absolutely agree with your points about windscreen mirrors. In the past I have had several vehicles with vertically-stacked quads. I have switched the lights around so the low beam is on the bottom. Not only is this kinder to other drivers, but also works better in fog and snow. I believe the decision of car makers to put the low beams on the top in vertically-stacked quads was a bonehead decision, especially in trucks. When I was writing about the blue coating, I was not writing about a windscreen mirror. I was writing about the wedge-mirrors stuck to the side mirrors on my Cayman. The scope of these mirrors do not cover vehicles immediately behind me, only vehicles in adjacent lanes close to me.

THIS is not your typical Seven. The range-topper for over a decade, this specification commemorates 50 years of the Lotus/Caterham lineage (1957–2007). Finished in Ballistic Orange with black accents, this British icon is powered by the bespoke dry-sump Cosworth 2.3L Ford engine producing 260 hp, breathing through roller-barrel throttle bodies and a Westermann carbon ram-air intake. Power is delivered through Caterham’s own close-ratio 6-speed manual gearbox housed in a lightweight aluminum casing, paired with a 3.62 limited-slip differential. At just 1,395 lbs, performance is immediate and intense. The CSR 260 represents the most advanced evolution of the venerable Caterham platform, built around the upgraded CSR chassis—25% stiffer than standard—paired with fully independent double-wishbone rear suspension and pushrod inboard front suspension. The result is a Seven with markedly improved composure, grip, and stability, yet this upgraded version sacrifices none of the raw, analog driving experience. Legally registered in California in 2014 as an SPCNS with a 1957 Lotus designation, the car is permanently smog-exempt and retains its SB100 certification plaque in the engine bay. The car has current DMV tags and a clean title. Owned by the seller for 12 years, and with 7,300 miles on one of the last custom Cosworth crate engines to leave the line, the car presents in excellent condition following a mechanical refresh by Kampena Motors and a subsequent professional repaint in 2025. In December 2015, with chassis mileage at 4,985, the seller replaced the original engine with a brand-new Cosworth CSR260 crate engine of the same specification, as the original motor had several technical issues, incomplete service history, and had spent its life at 6,800 ft above sea level. The chassis has 12,200 miles since new, while the replacement engine has 7,300 miles and runs beautifully. The car has spent approximately two-thirds of its life canyon carving, blatting, and cruising, with the remaining third used on track. Key Highlights: • CSR chassis • Independent rear suspension (double-wishbone) • Pushrod inboard front suspension • Cosworth 2.3L dry-sump engine (260 hp) • Roller-barrel throttle bodies • Caterham close-ratio 6-speed manual gearbox (aluminum casing) • 3.62 limited-slip differential • Superlight roll cage, built-in fire suppression system, cutoff switch • Lowered floors, reinforced driver’s side, Tillet carbon/Kevlar seat, MOMO quick-release wheel, color-coded tonneau cover • AP brakes, uprated suspension, quick-ratio steering rack, dash-mounted shift-light sequencer • 15-inch alloys with new Toyo R888R tires all around Upgrades & Supporting Mods: • Westermann Motorsport carbon ram-air intake • Secondary oil cooler to better sustain track use • Reinforced rear diff mount/strut tower • Lightweight battery, reduced-drag lighting • New carbon rear protection panels Recent Service (2025, minimal use since): • New front brakes (calipers, discs, pads) • New half shaft • Differential refresh • Fuel lines replaced • Full service and brake flush • New Toyo tires front and rear Included with Sale: • Original order documentation & MSO • Clean Carfax • Extensive maintenance records • Full set of unused wheel bearings front and rear • Cat-delete pipe (standard exhaust with catalytic converter included) • Additional unused harnesses Not Equipped With: • Spare Tillet seat • Heater • Carpets (except transmission tunnel) One of the last Cosworth-powered CSRs, and arguably the most capable and complete Seven ever built. Engineered with true motorsport intent, this is an unapologetic and unforgettable enthusiast car—equally exhilarating on a country-road blat as it is on track. Worth repeating, even for those in the know: a 260 hp Caterham IS the therapy! And this one is ready for its next chapter. $53,000obo

Light from bright headlights immediately behind you will still reflect into your eyes. The extent that bothers someone or impacts their night vision for the road ahead is specific to the individual. Given the plethora of LED headlights and trucks/SUvs on the road, I find this issue more problematic today, and of course, it is compounded when the person travelling just a few car lengths behind doesn't realize their high beams are on. Been there/done that even with a day/night mirror fitted. As mentioned earlier, the convexity of this mirror is quite low. Much closer to a flat mirror than a traditional convex side mirror.

I have the blue tint on the little convex wedge mirrors I bought for the Cayman. I thought maybe the blue was the tear-off you get on so many products nowadays. Does not seem so. I did not know the blue was supposed to be a nighttime thing. Does not seem to be something you would need in a convex wedge mirror: The convex means the headlight will appear small and that the light intensity is spread-out. The wedge means that following cars not in the danger zone should not be in your field of view. The larger wedge mirrors I have on the F-150 have no blue coating and I certainly don't regret its absence. 7 relevance: The convex side mirrors I bought for the Birkin seem to be working well. The I-assume-stock Birkin windscreen mirror seemed a little low.* I noticed that the ball was higher on the mirror than central, so turning the mirror 180 degrees raised it nicely. *. I'm only about 5'9", but have shortish legs. I therefore sit tall in the saddle. The antithesis of Danny Kaye and Conan O'Brien.

Have drill, will travel. The carbon is very easy to modify, but the plastic socket around the ball has to be altered and no way to avoid nicking the ball a bit.

I've done touring through very hot areas and recommend a small, insulated hydration pack with straps like this one, which is thin enough to stow behind the seat and hangs from the headrest. Fill it up with mostly ice before you leave the hotel in the morning, and you'll have cool water later in the day when you need it. The bite tube makes easy to hydrate while driving, and the location keeps it out of the way. https://www.amazon.com/Hydrapak-HydraSleeve-Insulated-Shape-Shift-Low-Profile/dp/B0BRBR82BG

I'll be at Palmer on Saturday 5/16 driving my Caterham. Our little group will be driving a turbo-Exocet, a Van Dieman sports racer, a K-powered BRZ, and my Cat. Rides will be available in the Exocet and Caterham in case anyone wants to get a taste of the track. You just have to sign a waiver and have a helmet. Palmer is a fun track, hope to see some other Sevens there! MassTuning TrackFest (May 16, 2026)

Well done you! Now do you make house calls?

No personal experience but please spend time to watch this series at night or whenever, there are 3 of 4 episodes where the guys go into their experience and suggestions They have road tripped A LOT on their channel, doing cross country drives at least once a year with different missions in different compromised cars

If you are worried about wire bulk. I took my first dive into wiring to add some auxiliary power in my 420. It was over kill but I used mil spec wiring. I was shocked at how thin the wires are. (And it is not cheap. But short runs shouldn’t be too bad ). a quick search showed the headlights draw up to 5amps which 22 gauge wire should handle. But if you go up to 20 gauge I think that’s rated up to 8.5amps. The wire is super thin and won’t bulk up with multiple runs. But it is stiffer than regular wire. but please do your research on sizing the wire correctly. not that you likely want to rewire the entire assembly https://www.milspecwiring.com/22AWG-Solid_c_400.html

If someone in the Bay Area (Oakland, CA) wants to compare one of these gizmos to an alignment rack I’d be willing to do it. I’m curious to know if it’s accurate. Andy

Hi All, I acquired a 420R late summer last year and am now relocating from Boston to LA. I decided to do a route 66 road trip with my car (Boston to Chicago, then route 66 to LA). I've just made it to St Louis so one state down (+ MA, PA, OH and NY getting to Chicago). Couple of questions: Anyone done this before and have any recommendations on places to stop and visit? I'll generally planning 24 hours ahead and finding a hotel towards the end of the day. Its worked out pretty well so far! :-) Any thoughts on traveling through the "hot states"? Particularly New Mexico and Arizona. I'm not sure how sparse those sections will be but obviously I'll pack extra water, top up gas more frequently and keep close eye on engine temps. Any other suggestions/prep anyone recommends? While doing this as a once in a life time trip, I'm also raising money for charity at the same time. On the off chance, anyone is interesting in sponsoring, my donation page is https://charity.pledgeit.org/road2resolve Thanks

Got ‘er done! Studied it a bit and jumped in. A somewhat delicate modification of the mirror body and part of the mount for the ball joint enabled enough angle to mount the nice mirror in a usable way. Being a retired Dentist helped, a straight handpiece and what I call a flame shaped acrylic bur worked great on the carbon. A straight 557 fissure bur cleaned up the delicate part right up to the ball joint. 2.5 illuminated magnification eyewear quite handy. Not driven it yet, just got in a mood and fixed it.

FWIW I'll give my initial review of the Gyraline G1, the little brother to the G2 ($200 plastic unit readable to nearest 0.1 degree vs $600 aluminum unit? readable to nearest 0.01 degree), with software on your i-phone, as discussed by Austin David. Gyraline has several on-line Youtube videos which have been very helpful. The biggest thing I've found is I can measure and tweak the suspension as many times as I want very quickly w/o having to schedule / visit an alignment shop and depend on their technicians. This is very handy when rebuilding / refreshing or tweaking your suspension etc. etc. I've had the unit for several months and used it to dial in the suspension on my 2006 Lotus Exige after a complete overhaul / rebuild front and rear w/ new: Delrin bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, Penske DA shocks, wheel bearings, powder coated a-arms, etc. i.e. 6-months plus effort. I first used the rotors as the reference for the G1 and then followed up w/ the wheels as the reference. Consistency in measurement technique provides incredible repeatability which followed by road testing and the occasional "string" check even for fairly minor adjustments gave me a lot of confidence in the G1. Of course, it helps that everything on the suspension (and tires) is new so the car has a completely different feel (far more precise and responsive). Toe (individual relative to car CL and total front and back) and camber are easily dialed in as well rapid checking for bump steer. After getting the Exige to 90% of where I want, still working on bump steer w/ limited options for adjustment on the Lotus, I moved to my 2009 Caterham S3. I upgraded to Penske DA shocks and revised spring rates, checked all suspension bushings, rod ends, ball joints etc. As a precursor to replacement of all bushings (Powerflex), rod ends, tie rod ends and ball joints (using Jack Webb's (UK) incredible Caterham suspension bits for improved camber and bump steer) I checked, adjusted / tweaked the alignment w/ the G1. Again, incredible how fast I can measure and adjust everything, and feel immediate results on the road. I'll give further update(s) as I get into the S3 suspension overhaul / rebuild but the $200 spent on the G1 has been well worth it for me. Of course, as always "your results may vary". Cheers! Steve

I picked up the G1 when they had a sale, but haven’t tried it yet. Hopi g it gets me in the ballpark and then I can compare to a real one.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking; I've got an NC getting suspension now, if I can confirm it's "about right" then it'll save me $150 and half a day. I was expecting my dedeon rear end to be pretty consistent. Maybe I should check my neighbor's live axle charger and see if it has any "toe".

I think there's case use for somebody like me who's never done an alignment on the 7 and would at least like the ballpark values dialed in If it gets close enough and can do a number of cars in my fleet I think it would pay for itself with just a few uses

Mine came in over the weekend. It's the "G2" which has some sort of internal hardware and runs an app on my phone. I've reached out for some support, hopefully will hear back during the week. I did a check of my wife's car, which has unknown alignment but I assume it's OK. The numbers weren't crazy, but I didn't save them. IIRC it was something like -0.25 toe front + rear, but very precise-looking values like -0.18* and -0.37* The app has a few modes including a 4-point and 6-point check, plus a thrust angle which uses a body reference. The body reference I chose was the sill where the scuttle hits the "door". I'll assume my car is still square, it's never touched anything. The rear is a dedeon with machined plates, so I further assume the toe is controlled very precisely, tho thrust angle could be off slightly. note that in the photos below the "+1.00*" is a configuration I added, it doesn't actually mean anything for the measurements. here's #1 and #2. The pictures look alarming but the actual values are small. Note that the car didn't move at all during these two measurements, I just repeated the same test twice. The procedure involves holding the phone+device flat (the diamond in the center is your level reference), then hold it against the reference point on the body or the wheel. One of those will blink saying which one it wants next, you align it then tap to confirm. It sends you back and forth a few times to get the measurements before showing the result. I do expect some toe in here, and I think it's underestimating twice. As this is a dedeon I don't feel like toe has much room to wear -- it's steel or aluminium all the way around. I also did the "6 point" check for toe front+back, twice: again, the car wasn't moved between tests. This time the rear toe is more consistent but the front varied a lot. I have not tried to independently measure in 15k miles but I expect the front to be toed in a little. I'd already reached out to the team to see if they could help with the square-check. I don't know if a good set of thrust values would really help here... maybe? My dedeon doesn't have any thrust angle adjustment, I think the two swingarms will constrain that angle. At best I could try and shim the assembly left or right but I don't think the gyraline (as currently provided) can account for that. And It was shimmed + measured when I built it... The above 6-point rear toe check is encouraging, but the fronts and the thrust angle seem ... variable. I'm not sure what the expected accuracy is. I assume something like 0.5 or 0.25 degrees, just based on the swing in the numbers below. But if that's the case I have a front that may or may not be neutral. Based on the very obvious inside wear on both tires after 17k miles I assume they're toed in just fine. I have not yet attempted camber measurement. Again with the dedeon I expect the rears to be very precisely constrained. The fronts were aligned when new and with no accidents and mostly grocery and road trips, I expect the fronts to be about -1.5*.

I am having the Stalker Tilt Trailer sandblasted and repainted in the coming weeks by the trailer repair company that redid the wiring and added the electric brakes. The trailer will essentially be like an almost new trailer, especially with the Torflex axle as opposed to a leaf spring suspension that is like a pogo stick. I am not sure at this point that I want to sell my beautiful ensemble?