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I am in Japan for a bit but will contact you to look at the car if it hasn’t sold by the time I get back. Good luck with the sale.

Dry sump?

I'm using Bring a Trailer to sell my car, trailer, and other items to make a track-ready package. Per BaT's rules, if you have any interest please look to BaT instead of inquiring through USA7's. I will reply here with a link to the BaT ad once it goes live. For those of you with history of the car or just feel like participating, I would be very grateful if you would comment in the BaT ad with whatever you feel is appropriate. Thanks! Greg

I don't know. I know the 1700 Super Sprint came to me with a MOCAL oil cooler on the front of the radiator, held in brackets similar to this one. I think my brackets went to the ends of the cooler, and the little pads might be 90 degrees out from the ones in the photo. Of course, I don't know where they are right now. I don't race. I do autocross and pleasure driving mostly in Minnesota. My air-horns live in that space in 74PHIL now.

Taking out the CSR 260 for an autocross practice day. Wondering where to start with tire pressures. New Toyo R888R tires 195/50 R15 x 6.5” width (fr) 225/45 R15 x 8.5” width (rear) We expect temps in the 70s F. Asphalt is in pretty-good shape at the Minnesota State Fairgrounds lot. I have been using 20psi all around on my square setup on my other Sevens, using Yokohama A052 tires. For 74PHIL that has been 195/50 R15 x 6.5” width (Prisoner wheels). I have a set of 8" wheels on which I will probably go to 205/50 R15. I have not had fresh tires on the Birkin until just now. Tuesday I put new 205/50 R15 Yokos on its 7" rims. Those tires will go to the lucky person who buys the car. As time goes by, I expect to switch the CSR to the Yoko tires to get legal in XU. Only change is that the rear tires would change to an aspect ratio of 50. For now, it's Exhibition class locally. For the Practice day I hope to have both the CSR and the Birkin out. MACs "over-70 drivers don't need to work" rule means I have six hours to do whatever I want. 74PHIL will sit out this event. I am putting its passenger seat into the CSR. My new Tillet seat will be a while getting here. I can't wait to try out the CSR quick-ratio steering rack on a slalom. I't's about 1.5 turns LTL.

How consistent has Cat been with the radiator mount spacing over the range of models and years, such as these are spaced? Or are they exclusively a crossflow/Ford engine fittting?

The Storm Cap fits just fine. A bit of variation for the intake scoop. See Photo of your car you took today thread.

@pethier when you get a chance to look through the owners guide I linked to in the other thread, find the sub section under Fuel called Filling Difficulties. As per @Croc's guidance above, they state to fill it slowly and not to fully squeeze the handle. Their advice differs only in that they state not to rotate the nozzle. However, like Croc, I find a slight rotation is helpful when filling my car.

Piiiiccccccssssss!!!!

Its the same. I don't need a funnel. Just put nozzle in. Twist to left slightly and pump in at half speed. Just need to be patient.

Given I have owned a CSR for 15+ years, I have made it a point of collecting technical information over the years to help me. It has been pulled together from other owners of CSRs I know globally. All of that gets put in the library for sharing.

I've had an issue getting gas only once in my CSR, and it was entirely my fault. Someone came up while I was filling up and asked me questions, and I kept going after the first click like I was filling up a regular street car. Excluding that one exception, I've had no issues in MD, VA, and NY.

Thank you. Union City, California.

On Long Island, The North Shore has land on the south and water on the north. In Minnesota, The North Shore has water on the south and land on the north.

Great looking car. Location?

I picked up some pop rivets with oversized heads

I epoxied BigHead fastener to front fender & bolted on Lexan flaps. They’re flexible enough & have worked great for over 10 years.

If you can’t find a bolt-in bar, I’ve fabricated several roll bars and roll cages for members here. I have a small race-prep & fabrication shop here in PA and can build whatever you would like and to your spec. Just an offer if you can’t find what you’re looking for. A cage will take a week, but I can do a roll bar for you over a weekend.

The rear of the CSR fender is cantilevered out a ways. Fender is designed to hug the tire closely. I figure I have to take off the tire, drill the fender, insert pop rivet from the inside Add mud flap. Pop rivet washer,. Tighten it up. Long part of rivet is on the outside where it can't mess with the tire.

Pics! Pics!!

mine are mounted on the rear fender bracket they extend 4" from the bottom of the wing, and end up 4" off the ground

I've seen it done but not sure how they were mounted, probably just a couple of button-head screws with washers/nuts. If it's extended low enough I'm sure it would make a big difference. I agree with KnifeySpoony though, put PPF on the side panels. I also put it on the forward section of the rear fenders before I installed the rock guards. I had that done on my 310 and I can't imagine the damage to the paint in those areas without it.

Yes but I still have to vacuum it after every autocross--lots of crap in the cockpit, and still rock pits on the rear fenders

I'm going to guess those are the same nozzles Costco has here I had issues a month ago with my Suburban, of all things the nozzles have a rubber boot around the pipe, which needs to seat on the filler pipe and seal if it doesn't seal, the auto shut off is confused totally out of the question for the 7 even if they had non alcohol, which they don't

I thought I'd give the knowledgeable and discerning folks on this site first dibs. With real reluctance, I’m putting my Caterham CSR up for sale. I’m relocating to Europe shortly, and importing/registering a US Seven there would be a long, expensive, and bureaucratic adventure I’d rather avoid. I am the original owner. The car was built for me, and very solidly built, by Rocky Mountain Caterham from a brand‑new CSR chassis in 2020. The engine and gearbox were sourced separately, per US EPA Kit Car Policy. The goal was simple: create the most agile, communicative and confidence‑inspiring road car possible. No racing, no track days — just pure back‑road performance. Specification Kit • CSR chassis kit in Caterham F1 Green (the pictures don’t do it justice) Engine • Used 2.0 Duratec, reportedly 210 bhp (true output unknown, but the performance supports the figure) Gearbox • Type 9 with Tracspeed semi‑helical gearset (long 1st, close 2–5) Registration • California SB100 (SPCNS) — smog‑exempt, no annual emissions testing, and you skip the usual SPCNS registration gauntlet Upgrades & Setup During My Ownership Cabin • Lowered floors, for 6'4" yours truly ECU & Tuning • MBE 9A4 programmable ECU • Professionally mapped by Steve Greenald (UK), an authority on all things MBE/Easimap Differential • Titan clutch‑type LSD Steering • Titan quick‑ratio rack (2.2 turns) • Custom tie‑rod ends and steering arms by Jack Webb Motorsports to eliminate bump‑steer • Woodward U‑joint for zero play Suspension • Quantum One.Zero coilovers with two‑way adjustment, setup by Jack Webb Motorsports • Upgraded rear clevis & pin set (addresses known CSR weak point) Brakes • CL Brakes RC5 pads up front — excellent modulation and stopping power Lighting • LED headlights (a major improvement over stock H4s) • Reverse light Alignment • Full geometry setup by Custom Alignment, Mountain View, CA What This Car Delivers You end up with a 1290‑lb, ~200‑bhp Caterham built on a Multimatic‑engineered platform — inboard front suspension, the only IRS in Caterham history, and a level of composure that, in my opinion, sets it apart from other Seven expressions. The handling is the CSR’s party trick: poised, unflappable, and absurdly fast across real roads. It shrugs off mid‑corner bumps, stays balanced no matter what you throw at it, and covers challenging terrain at WRC-like pace with unerring ease. Steering is razor‑sharp, richly detailed, and free of slop. The Duratec pulls from 2500 rpm and then charges hard to a 7800 rpm redline with a hint of BDA‑like sonority up top. The upgraded brakes match the chassis: powerful, progressive, confidence‑building. It is, without question, the most nimble, responsive, and sure‑footed road car I’ve owned. And everyone loves it, from 5-year olds to Porsche drivers, even Harley riders give it a thumbs up. The Imperfections (in the spirit of full transparency) • Slow oil seep at the main seal — improved but never fully eliminated. “They all do that, Sir.” • Slight kangarooing at steady-state light throttle around town; disappears above ~30 mph • A few small paint chips; it’s a driven car, not a museum piece Included Extras • Full hood and weather gear • A new set of Avon CR500s (195/45‑15 & 245/40‑15) — likely among the last available • All original parts, except the steering rack and open differential • Various fluids (engine, gearbox, diff, brake, coolant) Asking Price $65.000