JohnCh

Thought I'd follow up with the outcome. I left the car at VRM Monday so they could weld in an O2 bung in the exhaust for temporary use on the dyno and try again. With the O2 in that location, reading changed dramatically and matched what we expected. After optimizing the ignition curve and playing with needle height, the torque curve increased about 5-8 ft-lbs across the entire curve. Peak HP went from 88.2 at 5720 rpm to 95.34 at 6120 rpm, and peak torque from 86.09 at 4990 rpm to 93.22 at 4520 rpm. The numbers not only went up, but the distance between the peaks increased. Well worth the effort. Thanks again to all who chimed in earlier when I was trying to figure this out. -John

Thanks Vlad. I've never seen a set up like this. That certainly doesn't mean it won't work or is wrong, but it raises questions given the odd behavior you've been seeing. As I recall you were having heat related rpm changes before. That can happen when the throttle cable and the throttle shroud expand from heat at different rates. If the shroud expands more, then it has the net effect of tightening the throttle cable and increasing revs. I would follow @ashyers advice and rule out the throttle cable first. -John

How do you adjust idle speed with that linkage? I don't see a screw adjustment anywhere. Is that not shown? The issue (or part of the issue) may be down to funkiness in that throttle linkage. I'd follow the steps @ashyers suggested. Easiest first: when the issue presents itself, reach underneath and see if you can manually close the throttles. Next try removing the throttle cable and see what happens. Murphy's Law states that you might have multiple issues going on. Occam's Razor does not apply to Se7ens. -John

Looking at the various photos Vlad has posted here and elsewhere, it looks like the TBs have air bleed ports behind each butterfly that connect to a manifold, then the IAC opens/closes to adjust the amount of air bypassing the butterflies. The part that confuses me is how do you sync the throttles? If the air bleeds are linked, that's not an option. The linkage under the TBs links each throttle shaft via heim joints. Given this is under the TBs, it seems difficult/frustrating to adjust this way. @Vovchandr is there an easier way to sync these that I'm missing? Thansk, John

I have used mine on tours and while they are feeble, they are better than nothing and do come in handy on early morning blats when condensation forms on the windscreen (not heated on my car). That said, given you run aeroscreen and there is work to install the windscreen, how much extra work is there to install the wiper motor on those rare occasions when you may need it? Maybe you could do some mods to make the R&R easier/quicker? -John

Can you do data logging with your ECU? It would be interesting to see if the TPS position is changing as expected when this is happening or if anything wonky is showing with the air temp readings, air temp and AIC adjustment tables, or AFR. -John

Does it affect the reading if you wiggle the end of the tube at the gauge, or jut at the sensor bulb? Given that you have multiple gauges acting this way -- fine out of the car, but intermittent when installed -- it makes me wonder if the capillary tube is being partially pinched or kinked with it's current routing? -John

Is this a mechanical temperature gauge with a temperature bulb and non removable capillary tube connecting it to the gauge, or an electrical sensor that connects to the gauge with wires? Very different animals with different things to check. -John

Looks like Anglesey Circuit. I believe Croc has some on track video taken from a visit there on an older thread. It is stunning. -John

You may have already tried this, but I've found that a good approach to finding a DCOE expert is to connect with your local vintage racing scene. The shops that focus on vintage race car prep often have a Weber expert in house or one they work with as needed. -John

One of the main benefits of converting to an ECU controlled ignition is 3D mapping which requires knowledge of the throttle opening via a TPS or MAP sensor. The advantage over 2D is better part throttle response and reduced fuel consumption since different engine loads have different advance requirements to optimize the burn. Although we don't intend these cars to be gas sippers, the tanks are small and every little bit helps when touring. Given the cost and effort involved, it might be worth having that discussion with SBD before placing the order. -John

I don't see a Throttle Position Sensor mentioned. Did they feel there was no reason to proactively replace that? If you piecemeal this and buy common parts elsewhere (coil pack, have Magnecor make a set of plug leads to your spec, etc.), you could likely do this a bit cheaper, but there is peace of mind knowing that if something isn't working as planned you have support. -John

To answer your original question, there are a few ignition-only ECUs available today: megajolt, Nodiz, Omex, and others. MBE also makes a unit, which might be a little more plug and play given it's the same manufacturer as your current unit. Of course, things have moved on so much, that might not be the case. The size of the job is...it depends. If you aren't making any other changes, you'll want to ensure your sensors are compatible with the new ECU, and then you will need to rewire the plug so the correct wires go to the correct pin out out the ECU. I'm also not sure if the current crop of ECUs will work with your distributor setup rather than a wasted spark. Although, even if they do, I'd consider modernizing that aspect of the system. -John

Congrats on the purchase and glad to see you understand the importance of decreasing practicality in the garage. It's surprising how many people have trouble grasping that concept -John

Welcome to the forum and se7en ownership! I'm sorry to hear about your brother-in-law but it's great to know his car is staying in the family. Woody Harris was the Birkin dealer in Vacaville. I haven't connected with him in over 10 years, but I do have an email address that might still work if you want to get in touch with him. -John

It is a great photo. In fact a cropped version just made the club Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/p/COPARc-saBC/ -John

Nope, you're a paid club member and this is just a heads up for the BaT auction, so it's fine here. -John

I moved this to Cars for Sale forum since it's more likely to be found by someone looking for a car. -John

That looks like a spherical mount vs. a rubber bush mount shown in the manual. Is that a difference in the various Sport/Track/Race suspension options? -John

If I understand you description and the photos, one of the downward facing rectangular section's sloping sides hits the adjacent tube, but the other does not, yet the De Dion tube is equidistant above the chassis on either end. Is that correct? I am not familiar with the De Dion, so am probably way off here, but is it possible that the De Dion tube isn't centered within the chassis? -John

Pics will help. Also, paging @Pokey to the thread. He was very meticulous in his recent build and may be able to comment on the amount of clearance or any installation issues that could potentially minimize that gap. -John

Some of you may have stumbled across the new USA7s Instagram and Facebook accounts (user name: usa7sclub) @Croc and I have been playing with the past few weeks. Our goal is to use both platforms to increase awareness of USA7s and drive participation in the forum. The use of social media is not intended to bifurcate the community or knowledge base by creating a second USA7s location to ask questions or share information. In support of this, the Facebook account is public -- anyone can read or post a comment -- but only admins can create a new post, and clicking on the content will bring you directly to the relevant page of the forum. The Instagram account is intended to showcase photos taken by the USA7s community, not se7en-related photos borrowed from another site. We've seeded it with photos previously posted in forum threads or Member Galleries, and with some Croc and I have taken over the years. We'll continue with this approach and will also create a path for everyone to submit a photo they've taken for future Instagram posting. If you have a Facebook or Instagram account, I encourage you to Friend or Follow these accounts and help increase our reach. The more we can encourage people to join our community, we all win; more people to chime in when we need experienced advice or to share activities and ideas for what we can do to/with our cars. The user name for both sites is USA7sClub. Direct links are: https://www.facebook.com/usa7sclub https://www.instagram.com/usa7sclub/ Thanks, John

@KnifeySpoony I don't see a file physically attached to your post, so my guess is you either uploaded a URL from a location with private permissions, or a file path from your device. That would explain why you can see it, but others see this: -John

I've had my coffee, so fixed the orientation for you! -John

What are the specs of the engine? Is this a big power build? Also, what types of temps do you anticipate it will see when doing track days? With that information in hand, you might get some real world feedback from folks that heat isn't an issue provided you have an adequate radiator and/or oil cooler. -John