sf4018

I’m working to get my 420R eligible to race in the HSR series, they have all the usual safeties as a requirement to enter, all of which I already have with the exception of the fuel cell. It’s taken almost a year to get the cell and parts due to the supply chain disruptions in the UK plus not knowing whether to keep the internal fuel pump vs getting an external one and a bunch of other stuff that I really have no business trying to make decisions on. I couldn’t find any fuel cell installation posts anywhere (maybe someone knows of a place?) so I figured I’d document this attempt. Here’s the shipment from Caterham of parts and the certificate from ATL... I have no clue right now what the pumps mount to and how the lines are plumbed. Definitely not the straight swap I was hoping for, but it’ll be a fun challenge. Gonna start the install after a VIR track day next week. This is the parts list... Stock code Quantity per Description 1221310053 2.000000 BRACKET COIL & ROVER FUEL 30T043A 2.000000 ADAPTOR-FUEL FILTER TO 380T0001A 1.000000 FUEL HOSE - PUMP/FILTER TO FUEL RAIL 5249970000 1.000000 FUEL PUMP-REMOTE VX RACE 73013 1.000000 BOOT BOARD-99>DD(H/COMB)- 73014/55 1.000000 55 LITRE FUEL BAG TANK-UN 73015/55 1.000000 55 LITRE BOX FOR BAG TANK 73052R 2.000000 BOLT-FUEL TANK RETAINING- 73055R 1.000000 BRAIDED FUELLINE-TANK/PUM 73213 1.000000 FUEL PIPE-INJECTION ROVER 76151 1.000000 EXTENSION-FUEL PUMP-ROVER 79714 1.000000 BOOT BOARD-90> DE DION EDP9976 2.000000 O-RING-FUEL FILTER ADAPTE GFE7020 1.000000 FUEL FILTER-RACE INJECTION (+ROVER) HEF7-6-5 1.000000 FUEL UNION-FOR BAG TANK WG17 1.000000 GROMMET-H'BRAKE CABLE IN WKB100250 1.000000 FUEL PIPE ASSY-FILTER TO ZFT04K 1.000000 HARDWARE FUEL SYSTEM Note from the future: a lot of plumbing parts in the list above ended up being unused or not needed, consider your own solution. Boot board was also not needed. Also there is a new GT bag tank that is a virtual straight swap and a lot simpler to install (with the exception of mounting if you have an SV).

Just go fast

Dunno about epoxy but My garage has polyspartic, it’s been easy pretty resilient and still looks good after 5 years. Doesn’t do well with getting scraped by sharp or heavy metal objects though, but I’m not sure anything would.

EV cars take more carbon to make than gas cars. You have to run 10-30k miles to break even depending on a bunch of stuff. I don't think it's any kind of savior to the environment that its being made out to be. It'll be a horse and carriage for me next.

Depends on the motive why anyone would prefer EV over gas for a Seven. I can't think of a single reason, it's not environmentally better since for most it's only an occasional use vehicle. Maybe virtue signaling? If so, they would want it different enough so people can see it's a EV? It's a mystery to me.

The cockpit is ok so I'm guessing not enough safeties being used, whatever they were. Can't see any harness at all in the pics so who knows. Most race cars I race in these days have the halo type seat to stop side-to-side whiplash, not to the level of nascar but enough to stop your head flying off. In fact it happened to a teammate last weekend at Road America, brakes failed and he sideswiped the car in front and wrote off both cars. He got out without any bruise or injury at all (except mentally of course). They always say spend as much on safety as you do on the car, they are not wrong. I've got a fuel cell coming next week and I'm looking for a halo seat to replace the tillet that'll fit the space. Turn 12 at Road Atlanta was the last straw for me a few weeks ago for me, way too dangerous not to have side impact protection.

Do you have the 5th harness point going down into the seat between your legs?

A competent regular shop can do it, there are lots around that are not, particularly the high street ones so make sure you trust them. I had my whole suspension tuned by a Porsche service center during initial setup after the build as they have some top quality tools and equipment (toe, camber, corner weights, etc). After that I purchased the tools to do it myself. If your just talking toe then this will do the trick... Tenhulzen 3300 Tenhulzen Two-Wheel Alignment Systems with Toe Plates | Summit Racing ...it's basic but does the job. There are tons of others too.

+1 6-speed.

Maybe try loosening the top and bottom bolts of the dampers a couple of turns and push up the dedion and see if there’s any play. Can’t imagine the rear subframe is bent up, that would have to be some major force to do that.

Those spacers were missing from the bags I got in the original shipment, I installed without them not knowing I needed them as the build manual doesn’t show them...here’s the page of the build manual with no spacer, and a photo of the bottom of the damper with the spacers...the top may be different.

Long shot but do the top and bottom of the dampers have the spacers like in the pic below between the bolt and damper hole?

I have about a 1/2" gap between bottom of dedion tube and chassis frame when on stands. Maybe send some pics?

It’s not used for my rear ARB, but I have a SV not S3. A lot of those packs have stuff that’s for different configurations, I ended up with a draw full.

My Duratec (2.0 not 2.5) runs very hot, the trigger for the fan on for my Duratec is 105C and cuts off at 101C, which freaked me out the first time I ran the engine, but Caterham confirmed this is correct. Once running at speed it cools to 94C. You could maybe add a switch to override the ECU output to the fan and keep the fan on so the engine stays cooler than the 105-101 range (or whatever the 2.5 is), it'll be a cheap mod anyways.

Fast lap from the day...

Not a forgiving track to do 360s like Mr Brighton! 1:40.1 so far in 1st session. A lot bumpier than I remember from driving “normal” cars, there’s a big divot under the bridge between 10b and 11, the steering correction when going over that is pretty dramatic.

Kinda last minute but if anyone is local to Road Atlanta I’ll be at a track day there tomorrow (Friday) if anyone wants to stop by, hang out and/or go for a spin...

The ZZRs I'm removing from my wheels are lightly used (1 day on track) but the fronts are 5-6 years old from manufacture date, if anyone wants the set of 4 let me know otherwise I'm going to bin them.

Try Roger Kraus roger@rogerkrausracing.com, he had the ZZRs in stock a few months back. Edit: Sorry didn't see you already did that. Edit 2: I can sell my set of ZZRs if you don't mind buying used. I bought them October last year, used them for 1 day on track only so they are in good shape just not sticker.

What “legislative challenges” are they talking about? Brexit fallout? Elimination of gas engines? Who knows!

I'm really curious how easy or hard it'll be to flush out 5 year old gas from the lines, keep us posted!

Looks great! I know how much work that was to do, thanks sooo much. What does the blue circle shield mean? Are you guys special?

So I researched brake pads some more, starting with the 2 caterham types on offer. The “uprated” pad is a bog standard Delphi 407CP. The “standard” pad is AP racing brand with ferodo material DS25 type material (and more expensive). The descriptions seem upside down. I could not find any AP Racing pads online that I was comfortable with, Ferodo didn’t seem to sell the shape needed. Then I found Pagid racing which sells the right shape in 2 compounds - RS14 and RS42 (shape 1163). I guess it’s going to be a guessing game which compound to use. Has anyone used these pads or have any other pad suggestions?

Could try disconnecting the battery after starting the engine then switch on lights etc to load it up, see what happens at idle and higher rpm? Sure sounds like an alternator issue of some kind.