powderbrake

Here is a link to a Corvette Forum thread where I describe the trip I just completed last week. I got the C6 in a Corvette Museum delivery in January, and only had 2500 miles on it when I left for the 6000 mile trip. It was an awesome trip, and I got to see many new places and views of the USA. This is the 3rd trip my wife and I have made to Seattle, and I used a different two lane road route each time. Part of the time , I wished I was driving my Se7en, but not when it was raining or snowing, plus it doesn't have the mandatory two cupholders. ( or a top or side curtains, or trunk space, etc., etc.) I took about 500 pictures, but only included the "car" pictures for the thread. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-corvette-general-discussion/2632076-new-c6-6000-mile-road-trip-through-the-west.html

.....and as we all know, fishermen are always truthful.:jester:

Thanks to Mazda , and to Al, who put so much effort into the 7/7/07 meet, and the establishment of the USA7s website.

If it catches on , the dealers will have a special on a "Tire Air Flush and Refill" $39.95

At home I refer to it as "the Seven" or "the Ultralite". When people ask me what it is , I say it's a replica of a Lotus 7. Yes, it's not a "replica" in the true sense, as something indistinguishable from the original, but they don'y even know what a seven is. Frequently I have to explain that a Lotus is a British sports car.

Calvin: No this isn't hazing. This is just some guys who are giving their opinion, and it doesn't necessarily coincide with what you have in mind for your own car. Not everyone reads every portion of every thread, and doesn't realize that you have already firmly resolved to make some changes to YOUR car, so let it roll off your back and remember that everone has an opinion, and that you asked for advice. Of course with any advice , you can take it or leave it. No matter what you decide to do, you will still have a great fun car.

Scott: Congrats on the new car. I have insurance with State Farm. I had a lot of discussions with them, and they with their underwriters, but eventually they came through. I do have all my cars and my homeowners with them ,as well as an umbrella policy. I wanted "standard" insurance, as a daily driver. Hagerty or others of that ilk should be willing to insure it, with typical restrictions I have a tonneau, not a car cover. It fits on the snaps in the rear that the trunk cover uses, then additional snaps around the sides and hood. here are couple pics without and with the tonneau ( sans snaps). I do not have a pic of the tonneau after I added the snaps.

Congrats on the quick sale. Urge the new owner to post on this forum

I'm on the corvette forum as well. I'm JerryC5 over there, even though I have a C6 now. Guns are my other big hobby, and on Monday I just got back from South Dakota on a hunt. I also target shoot handguns every week with a small club at a local police range, and rife at the benchrest club. I used to shoot IDPA but havent got around to it this year yet. The problem is that the gun forums are very diverse, AR15, 6mm, mouseguns, reloading, etc, all are different forums. You will have to pick one that suits your specific current hobby.

It has never sputtered, only one time on the big oval at Run N Gun, it just ran out of fuel when I had been hot lapping with less than 1/4 tank. I have never had it sputter or run out on the street when driven at least 220 miles. It really is not a problem on either car. If you can go 200+ miles in a seven without a restroom stop or a drink stop, you must have a huge bladder. On the highway.: 1) I typically wear Scott motocross "over the glasses" goggles.That is to a) protect from flying rocks, and b) keep dust out of the eyes, and c) keep wind buffeting out of the eyes. 2) I typically wear a)no cap, just sunscreen on the bald spot, or b) a do-rag cap to keep the sun off the bald spot, or c)a baseball cap which has an under chin stap with velcro closure made by my wife, or in the winter, d) a leather "snoopy style" aviators cap which keeps the ears warm. 3) I don't wear a helmet unless on the track, I haven't driven it in the rain , but a helmet might be good there. 4) I don't wear earplugs, I do wear an earphone in my left ear which is connected to the audio on my V1 radar detector. 5) 4000 rpm in an S2k does not get to me over time, remember there is a lot of wind noise, tire noise, exhaust noise and noise from other cars, and the engine noise is inconsequential. Besides 200 miles of continuous Interstate highway is excessively boring..... change your route. Besides, the twisties give you a chance to rev it through the gears, and it makes a sweeeeeet sound between 6000 and 9000 rpm. NOTE: I have replaced my windscreens with the 2" higher ones like Jim Rankin has, and it makes a big difference in cutting down buffeting. What I should do is take the 1" riser out from under the driver's seat, and it will reduce it more, but nowadays I never work on the car , I just gas it and drive it. You really need to ride in each of these cars to answer these questions for yourself. I don't know where you are located, as there is no city your profile, but I'm in St.Louis, and you are welcome to see and drive my car.

Mondo: The surge tank looks like a great idea, but I would have to cut open the tank to get it in. I am semi retired from track day events, so I will live with the 1/4 tank rule. Bster13: I was told it's a 13 gallon tank, I'm not positive. I generally run about 200 to 220 miles, and my gauge shows 1/4 Full, but it's not calibrated well, and I usually put in about 8-9 gallons, which is around 25 mpg with a combination of cruising and "spirited" driving. I have never seen less than 20mpg with extensive "spirited" driving. Track use is another thing entirely, and can be as low as 8-12 mpg. I also have a 4.44 axle, and it runs around 4000 rpm at 70 mph. ( only 2/3 of the way to the Vtec point, and only 44% of full RPM) The tank in the picture looks wider at the top than my tank, and it is a later model ( I can tell by the low exit of the header pipes). It likely has an internal fuel pump, mine is an external pump setup. Internal is better. I would not have a problem with a 10 gallon tank in my car, as 200 miles is a pretty good jaunt in a seven. Notice in the picture, you will have to lift the tank straight up, then slide it out to the side, under the roll bar supports. Another good reason to have it empty when trying to remove it.

The tank is full of foam, via the filler. I used some sticks to ram it to the corners. It has a center pickup, so at 1/4 to 1/8 tank full, you can't run flat out on a banked oval.( guess how I know) The front of the tank rests on the diff, padded by rubber between a V shaped piece of aluminum and the tank, and also is pushed against the back of the passenger compartment. The rear rests on the crossmember over the diff. Brian had these custom made on the earlier Ultralites, and perhaps he has one, or can source it for you. Should you use one like this, it would be better to have a lower pocket for the pick up to insure fuel flow, BUT it may not slide into the car between the roll bar and the upper tube of the body. Without the fuel pocket, I just always keep more than 1/4 tank full on the track.

Here is a couple pics of my Ultralite trunk. My wife and I have taken 3 day trips in it , with room for bags, camers, and the tonneau that covers the cockpit. I have no top or side curtains. I have an earlier model from WCM, which has the custom fitted 13 gallon tank , which is wedge shaped and fits high in the trunk area. This gives lots of room for stuff in the trunk. Some cars have a larger , more square tank, that is lower. Check out the one you want to buy to see the trunk room. In the automobilsport link above, mine is the last yellow S2k, with the red a arms and spindles and seats. The runngun data is confusing and somewhat incoherent, but the lap times are probably right. Do not compare the lap times of a standard, street driven Stalker or Ultralite with those of Loren, Kevin, Chuck Spera or Dennis Brunton or John Meyers. Those guys are running 1.0XX times and are experienced, REALLY GREAT drivers in super hot, and well setup cars with slicks, whereas I ran my stock Ultralite in the Street Class ( 200 wear rated tires) and turned in the 1.15 to 1.18 range, and somehow did manage to 8 or 9 trophies in 4 years. From your description of what you want to do with a car, either car is sufficient in "stock" form, to do everything you want. For travelling , you need to consider the storage capacity, both inside and outside. For track days will find blowing some Cobras and other cars into the weeds great fun, but a well tuned seven (of any type) with a good driver may blow by you.... it all depends on the tires, the set-up, and the skill level. Good luck, you can't go wrong with either choice.

Andy: Your build turned out great. I had not seen pics of your car, since we corresponded during your build. Jerry

:iagree: :flag:

Calvin: I did not mean to imply that there was some necessity for keeping the car "original". With an Ultralite I am obviously someone who is not married to the original Lotus/Caterham concept. I can see from your replies that you are well into the project, and having the Honda drivetrain available makes the project planning a much more solid program. If there is any info that I can supply on the Ultralite, which you may need to do your conversion, please just ask.

I have an Ultralite with a Honda S2000 engine, and while I love it, and it's power, it seems a shame to replace the drive train which you have. Here are some reasons; 1) Your car is magnificent and rather unique. The air intake screen on the side of the bonnet is beautiful, and would possibly be lost in the rebuild. That fantastic nose may also be lost. 2) The Honda engine is likely much taller than the Lotus Ford, and will probably require a new bonnet, destroying the looks of the car. The reason the Ultralite has a bulged hood is to clear the engine. Before you decide to lay the Honda over to the side for clearance, you may have oil circulation issues and may require a dry sump. At max rpm the Honda pumps an absolutely unbelieveable amount of oil to shift the cams. 3) I understand the Honda gearbox is quite a bit larger than the Ford, and may require your moving frame members. 4) The Subaru differential mounts to the frame, and all the suspension points are simple tie rods with spherical ball ends on the Ultralite. ( 5 each side) To create a complete suspension system in the Doonk, you will be doing some serious cutting and welding. 5) The drive shaft is the least of the issues which you will face. General suggestions: 1) I assume you want the Honda to go faster. Consider replacing the current engine/trans/diff with components that will directly fit and spend the money on power adders for the engine or one of a similar type. 2) Before you get into this MAJOR rebuild of the car, consider selling it and getting an Ultralite. 3) The Sevens experience is more than sheer acceleration and speed. You have a beautiful car. Drive it as is, enjoy the experience, and modify with the current drivetrain type, at the rate you can afford. 4) Before you jump into a Honda engine conversion, contact the guys who REALLY, REALLY know them here on the usa7s forum, i.e. WestTexasS2K, RDROCKT, and 7evin. 5) If you can locate a Honda engine/trans at a salvage yard, measure it up, for height, width, length etc., so you don't start a project that may not end on a positive note. If I seem negative, it's because what you are proposing is a really tough job, and what you are starting with is so unique. Whatever you do, I wish you the best of luck.

Mine is the flat metal. Another solution which I had seen was a about a 10 " piece of metal welded between the top of the flat part that fits on the spindle, and the other end is welded about where the curve is that goes around the tire. This provides a triangular structure which should not vibrate. I cannot vouch for this, just something I have seen.

You have to reinforce the fender brace bend area as well . Here's some pics of the pieces I made, sorry , cant find the finally welded pics. Weld the pieces all around at the bend, the long tee piece, just weld 1" alternate side for full length. This fix has worked perfectly for the last 5000 miles

If your Ultralite has the 12" diameter Wilwoods in the rear, you have way too much brake back there. later models went to the smaller Subaru rear disks. I have the 12" rears , and I added a Brake Bias valve in the cockpit, which helped enormously. An alternative is to replace the calipers (Wilwood Dynalites) with ones with a smaller size piston

That is how I made the top bows for a 1959 Berkeley which I had, which allowed me to put the pieces in the "trunk" One side of the dowel was fastened to one side of the top bow.

Not to hijack the thread, but I like that road in eastern WA. I am driving from St.Louis to Seattle next month and maybe I can incorporate it. Where is it ,and what is the name of the road?

The Stalls group had an early morning cruise today. Gathered at the Lamborghini dealer for expressos at 7:30 am. That was a treat, wandering around Lambos, Elises, Evoras, Bentleys, and Maseratis. Then a 60 mile cruise (in 47 degree weather) through a lot of twisty roads to the Blue Owl restaurant in Kimmswick MO, for breakfast. They feature Cinnamon buns about 6 inches in diameter. The run was laid out by Bob Shorzmann of the local British car club, and took some of the prettiest and twistiest little back roads that I have seen around here. There were 3 sevens, 2 Caterhams (bball7754 and Mike ?) and my Ultralite. The group also included a Lotus 11, a Mini, three Elises, 2 Esprits, a couple Evoras, and a Triumph. Here's some pics:

I recommend you check out Ultrashield. Very reasonable prices, and many widths. I have a set of drag seats in my Ultralite S2k http://www.ultrashieldrace.com/index.php

What the heck, it's Red, White and Blue, and doesn't look like a Union Jack, so I would drive it here...........After I redid the interior.