powderbrake

Thanks for the article reference. I will check my voltages, but I think I'm OK as I am a confirmed "Ground Junkie" I have my engine ground tied to the frame with the following. Clean off powdercoat.... Tap hole..... place "Star" type lockwasher under the lug... liberal application of silicone grease to everything to prevent corrosion... tighten down. I also have a forward and aft frame mounted studs for ground points ( keeps the wire runs short to heavy current things like lights and fan), as well as a point on the rear of the engine block for all instrumentation and computer grounds, and finally, a solid ground to the battery and engine block, pictured below. (Flex strap from Auto Zone)

150 pounds? I would have to have one arm and one leg amputated to drive it.:ack:

Kayne West apologized ( sort of) last night on the Jay Leno show. He seemed to realize that he had done a hurtful thing, but really doesn't communicate very well... you know.

Truly sad. I remember that a person came in and said that a plane had crashed into a building in New York, so I turned on the TV. What a horror. I watched all morning and almost could not believe what I was seeing. Let us not forget what happened to all those innocent people. :sadangel:

The Ultralite has the same wheelbase as most all sevens, and is a bit wider in the tread and body width, but isn't really that much larger overall. Here are some pics from a different perspective.

The S2k frame is purpose built for the S2000 engine and transmission, so the hood and fenders won't get you very far. You really need the frame, then you could get the engine and transmission locally. The engine, trans, and computer are the only S2000 parts in the car. Everything else you could source in Canada or the USA, but Brian Anderson can give you the whole package. I will not comment on the Canadian import situation, other than tallk to other Canadians and to people who have brought cars or parts into canada.

I have been using the Jet Works KB35 XC gel battery for jetskis in my Ultralite for 4 years now, and it has always worked great. I put it on a battery tender in the off season. Very small and reliable, and $80 here's a link: http://www.jetworks.net/kb35xc.htm

This is a great item. I ordered one from Stephen, paid via Pay Pal, and received it in 7 days. It came via airmail, and was received in excellent condition. Stephen responed immediately to emails, and shipped immediately upon receipt of the Pay Pal funds. For the metrically challenged, it is 7 3/4 wide by 7 5/16 tall, and is just a hair under 1/8 thick. I will post pics when I get it painted and mounted (which may be a winter project) Stephen: thanks again for the speedy service

I have to agree with you on the " non-greenness" of disposables. My daughter insists on cloth diapers for my granddaughter...... but Iraq is a lot more primitive than the USA, and burning or burying diapers is trivial compared with the damages of the past regime or the war, and the usefulness to the mothers. You have to have the basics of life like shelter , food, running water and care for your children before you decide the environment comes first.

I did a kit version of the WCM S2k, and am very happy with it. The Honda engine and transmission are as reliable as you can get,and the 240 hp from a bone stock engine means no wrenching on it. Send me a PM with your email and I'll answer questions on my build.

It appears that the machine is to be installed in Mosul, along with the supplies to actually produce the diapers. My company was involved in tension control of the materials as they flow through the machine for various diaper machine manufacturers around the world. Contolling a web of very thin and very fragile non-woven material, the elastic bands at the legs and waist and the 003 thick adhesive tape at nearly 1000 feet per minute requires state of the art equipment. They are producing diapers at a speed of 6 diapers per second ! This is a seriously large and complicated machine. I suppose that winning the hearts and minds of the Iraq mothers will go a long way in enhancing good will for the USA in Iraq. Ask your wife if she would like to wash diapers or use disposable. We have made investments in building schools, hospitals, rebuilding their munincipal electric and sewage utilities etc. Why the Air Force has the diaper machine duty is anybody's guess, but a multi-million dollar diaper machine may be a good investment. (This coming from a guy who is likely more conservative than Rush Limbaugh.)

If you try to escape will you be chased and crushed by a big white balloon?

Around 130 on the straight at Gateway at Run & Gun. Was actually too scared to look at the speedo very closely, as that left turn into the infield at the end of the straight is between a concrete wall on one side and other rigid stuff on the other side. I hate that turn. I will have to try it on a straight road sometime to see where it tops out. I don't know if 5th or 6th will be faster.

I am not familiar with the dash of your car, I just thought it might be possible to "hide" a wire on the left side, and escape drilling a hole. According to the Valentine 1 manual, you can wire the V1 to the "Direct Wire Power Adapter" then to the "Remote Audio" then to the "Concealed Disply, so you can have them all working together. Or you can go from V1 to Remote Audio, to Direct Wire Power then to the concealed display. It appears that you are using the cigarette lighter power supply. I do not know if you can wire both adapters with that power supply, you will have to check with Valentine. In any event you will have a great system. I am a huge fan of the V1 arrows. I get nervous driving my wife's car without the arrows, is he ahead of me?, is he behind me and catching up?. I just hope someday Valentine will add an automute and maybe GPS. The reason my wife doesn't have a V1 is that she insists on automute, and can't be bothered to press a mute button.

I use the remote display in all my vehicles except the se7en. There I use the remote audio with a earbud in my left ear so I can hear the beep. I don't use the remote display because the V1 is mounted right in the center of the dash. It's upside down, but I got used to the arrows being reversed. I used a visor clip on mount that comes with the V1 to clip it on to the hood. In the pic you can see the detector in the center, and the remote audio just below the dash on the left, next to the silver frame tube. I generally mount the remotes with velcro tape so they can be removed. You could mount the remote at the far left of the windkick, and run a wire up to it without drilling a hole in the dash. You only have to look at it when the beep sounds. The remote display and the remote audio both can mute the sound.

I am not sure what tires you are running, but on my Ultralite, I have Falken Azenis'. I run about 20 psi on the street, as I want sufficient pressure to protect against road hazards and potholes. My car acts like yours when pushed hard, i.e., a bit of sliding around of the rear, and the front always sticking as it should. At my first track day event, I had the tires at 20 psi and the rear was too loose. On Loren's advice, I lowered all the tires to about 16, then went down to 15 , then to 14 psi. It made a big difference in control. Of course, this was on a track day lappping session, so the tires were hot and sticky. I now drop the pressure to 14 when I want to stick. Bear in mind the Falkens are sticky tires, particularly when they are warm, and that typical blats don't really get them hot enough. Also, depending on how old the tires are, and how much heat cycling they have received, they tend to get harder with age.

V-Robb: DO IT NOW !!! When you get your seven you will ask yourself "Why did I wait so long?" Clicking on the section Member Rides will give an idea of how diverse the whole seven community really is. Lots of choices, and the best part about it is ......there are no bad choices !! Not only will the bike guys give you "low fives", the hot rod and sports car community will give you "thumbs up", and soccer moms with a minivan full of kids will tell you it is cool, and of course, the kids love it because it's really a car that is their size. Welcome to the USA7s forum, and we hope to see your pics in the members Rides section soon.

You may need an adjustable pintle to set the height. When I changed from my 1996 Tahoe to a 2007 Tahoe, the new car receiver was about 6" higher than the old one. I had a 1000 pound round bar weight distributing hitch assembly, but with the new height of the receiver I needed a new pintle. I got an adjustable one, and was able to tune in the height of the ball, and with the adjustments on the chains, able to level out the car with a loaded trailer. The instructions for load transfer come with the weight equalizing hitch. My weight distributing hitch is a Draw-Tite 3203 (up to 1000 pound tounge weight, 10,000 pound trailer weight) http://www.hitchesforless.com/roundbar_WD_hitch.htm My pintle is a model 3215 http://www.hitchesforless.com/wd_shanks.htm

They are one piece plastic ramps that you use by driving your car up onto them to change the oil. Yes, they have a lump across the front of the ramp to keep your tire from running off the end. I cut that lump off with a saw, so they are flat on top. The trailer door ramp rests on these ramps, and they stick out from the end of the trailer door ramp. The trailer door does not rest on the flat top portion, it rests on the slanted part of the ramp, and it is enough to get you over the hump, and not hit the sump. I start the tires onto the portion that sticks out from the back of the trailer door, and drive right on up into the trailer. I have also seen these ramps at Auto Zone, they cost $40. check their part number 11903 Blitz 8000 lb ramp kit. It is under Truck accessories, Ramps. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?displayName=Ramp&itemId=371-10&navValue=100371&parentId=938-10&productId=391544&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=391544_0_0_&filterByKeyWord=Ramps&categoryNValue=100938&store=258&skuDisplayName=8000lbs.plasticrampkit&categoryDisplayName=TruckAccessories&_requestid=77192

I completely concur with the choice of the Haulmark low profile trailer. I have the 7 X 14 high profile, and if I did it all over again, the low profile is the one I would buy. The electric brakes and the torsion suspension make it an absolutely great trailer. two suggestions/comments If the beavertail is free, then great. If not, I use a couple of plastic ramps from Wal Mart, and store them under the car when it is loaded. If you are not getting the Haulmark, get the measurements of the width at the floor line to insure the wheels fit, and well as the measurements of the rear door opening. I like Scannon have about a couple inches on each side clearance for the fenders from the cables when the door is down.

Not drifting, but Autocrossing in the wet at 2005 Run & Gun at Gateway International Speedway in Madison Il, across the river from St.louis. It was fun, but with trying to get good autocross times, you can't get out of shape like eVox did in his drifting. I'll bet there is a big grin behind that full face helmet he has.

That's a bit harsh, and like you say, to each his own. Roman is going for the "blacked out" look with a touch of color. For your info, the Ultralite is designed to take 17" wheels ( and larger), unlike the Loti, Cats, Birkins, Locost etc., which generally take 13 or 14 inch wheels. It is almost impossible to put that small of a wheel on the Ultralite due to the Wilwood 12" front rotors and Dynalite 4 pot calipers.

I have purchased well nuts at Home Depot and Lowes.

While I get a bit of buffeting around the head, but not too much to be uncomforable, ther eis no buffeting at the sides, or the reverse flow that kicks the ladies hair up in the back. I assume because I have the semicircular windscreens (they are much larger than a set of Brooklands screens) the flow through the center works like the article.

:iagree: