IamScotticus

Pictures? You did it right. skipping all the anguish, missing parts, knashig of teeth, and got a runner to start doing what the 7 seven was meant for. A selfie magnet.

Mobile Suit Gundam 0080: War In The Pocket A resemblance of a 7. The colors are a hint

Why not, when Polaris can sell Slingshots?

Sorry, but the black sticks stay with my car. How do your sticks fit on the basket top tube? They should match the curvature exactly. 7 sticks always have for 66 years. If they do, and your hood doesn't fit, your hood is the problem. It may have shrunk some. Can you set it up as much as possible and show us the problem areas?

I have that floor jack. It gives me 23" of lift. I don't see any long reach that low anymore. Yea, caster weight rating is the first thing I look for. You have some serious heights going on there. 20" is still tight but i can manage. I don't want to poke the gravity bear.

A 7 is a collection of various parts from different cars. These cars will have fan sites, forums and speciality aftermarket parts sales. You can learn more about a part by going to the fan base for that car. For example, if I want info on my rear axle, I go to the Morris Ital, Austin Marina & Triumph TR-7 experts (all three of them). Lucky for you, there is still much support for your engine. Check out Moss Motors and Rimmer Bros.

So far from that list I like the CJ Auto's 5 ft. adjustable width but I have bad luck with stuff falling so I prefer a solid bar on top.

Its either buy a built, made in china, too narrow in back, too wide up front, but will fold flat for storage set for $224 https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Portable-Adjustable-Sprint-Midget-Car-Chassis-Stands,403290.html Or, I can build my own in wood, cause I don't weld yet, for about the same cost. (Yes, I priced it out). Or I can buy yours. Must have locking wheels, or can be fitted with them.

Make sure the piston walls will get adequately oiled in lieu of the normal pan splash. A DS pan may have a shallow pooling baffle under the conrods to provide enough oil for splash, while allowing the excess to drain to the sump. Ensure there is conrod bolt head clearance in the pan early in the project, possibly even before removing the engine. Bolt up the DS pan and hand turn the crank to check.

I had the engine installed when I got the car and none of that was used.

Sorry everyone, auto correct does things after I submit.

Unfortunately, i didn't save any of the solids from the pump cleaning to use as test media. but there isn't any evidence of it in the block inlet water pump mounting face, where coolant did pool for years. is it possible that this concealment is in reaction to aluminum components only? The engine will get a flush, Im hoping to not have to go to the extent of a hot tank, yet. It will get tanked eventually for a dry sump galley tap. But for now, I just want to get running.

Gurus, Having sat for eleven years, psrtvof that time still holding the engine coolant, part drained, and at some point I may have mixed orange and green coolant, when I took the coolant pump off, I found the impeller chamber and hose inlet passage completely cloged with a hard waxy congealed goop. I did not see any on the engine side. Therefore, I am asking if it is necessary to hot tank the engine to remove any other blockages? I didn't see any goop in the radiator or lower hose, only similar corrosion and scaling in the aluminum upper coolant outlet thermostat housing. Is this corrosion and jelling only an aluminum thing, leaving the iron safe? I am planning to connect a pump and hose circuit to the upper and lower to circulate a rust removal solution in lieu of a dip.

Thats gorgeous work! What's the square window?

Many things on the 7 have been remarkably consistent through the years. The basket profile that dictates the hood stick height hasn't changed. Hood pleat locations for different stick positionings have been used to clear different rollover bars, like the FIA. In a measuring exercise with Des (NSXguy), I compared the lengths of a mid 80s Short cockpit to my mid 90s long, I found no great difference in length between the shock tower and the front Petty strut mount. Wherever Cat lengthened the cockpit, they must not have altered the frame. I think that you have a very good chance of a new hood and doors fitting, although a bit fiddly initially.

Was it stiff springs and soft dampers? or soft springs and stiff dampers?

Bill, I have a set of hood sticks for you, aluminum and not drilled. The sticks may need a little persuasion on angle but they follow the basket tube perfectly. An issue may be how your hinge brackets are spaced, for sticks to mount inboard or outboard. These are bent for outboard. The alu inner tube is still long, needs to be cut to final length to clear the damper tops. The black sticks are Caterham. Both are 16mm dia. I would be honored if these found their way onto your car.

In general, the top tube is formed to the same shape as the top rear chassis basket, terminating at the hinge brackets. The inner, or rear support tube is formed to the inner cotour of the main, attatched with cross drilled hinge screws at some point. That point may not be determined in advance of hood fitting, as the construction of the hood may dictate that exact point to achieve proper tension. Probably best done inside the car. Please video the exercise for every to see!

I will go to my shed and measure those but someone else might get you that quicker. Im not too sure about stainless bending as well as aluminum.

I will provide various pic from my books and build manuals. Many from the Tony Weale Book.

I suspect they are there for standard road safety regulation compliance. Coat the screen with RainX and you won't need the wipers for rain. A splash of mud, yes, but not rain. Although I have seen RainX work on others vehicles, I have never really cared to coat my regular cars windshields with it because my wipers have been good. However, I would consider using it on the 7 as a contingent safety item in the event the wipers are insufficient. I couldn't find the OE source for the wipers, but I had read once they are Morris Mini, possibly. Regardless, locate the car those wipers were standard equipment on then ask around on the fan forums what alternatives they have found. A search turned up this https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/techtalk/wiper-blades-4 someone suggested the equivalent wipers from Car Builder Solutions are good.

I have some duct tape for ya https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Project-Supplies/Adhesive-Tape/Neon-Green-Art-Project-Tape/p/80985828 Found it at Hobby Lobby. Happy to send you a few rolls. PM

Interested as well...same situation. Due to limited (reasonable) variety of 13" I am wanting to try 14" wheels for a better rubber selection, and maybe better looking wheels, but not wanting 15". Since I am stuck with a Morris Ital 3.75" PCD, My options are fairly limited. I did find one thing, VTO wheels in Phoenix, AZ. They have a surprisingly generous selection of styles in stock and custom drillings. An example, this one in 14" +22mm offset althought 5.5 wide, is available in my PCD as a custom drilling. https://www.vtowheels.com/Retro-4-14-x-55-Custom-Drilled-22mm_p_110.html A Minilite style is available in 6". As for buying a set of unknown brand name, and questionable quality, I wouldn't be too concerned about it, they should be adequate in a 1,200 pound car. Just keep the pressures at 20psi and don't push the road holding limits into under/over steer.