IamScotticus

I don't know if it would ever happen, but were I in this situation I would be wondering if a moving of operations from Kent to an Asian location would be happening. And hoping my car got out before the exodus. If I were an executive at VT holdings, that would be the plan.

Is this ths first SV to be offered with clams as standard?

Its soooo..... Wait for it........ P u r r r r p l e

I get cost. For me, protection from a pouring is well worth $300. Im thinking that something that does the same job, or can be fashioned into, can be made much cheaper. The cheapest thing I know is painters drop sheeting for coverage of floors. If I could find the right adhesive, I could easily fab up a perfectly fitted cover. Materials costs would be under $10.

@papak who's nose is that? Does it fit a Cat?

Rule #1: I am cheap. Rule #2: You are cheap. Now that's out of the way, how can I make a thin, stowable, plastic rain cover that I can draw taught enough to not allow water to pool? And cheap enough to dispose of without too great a loss? Typical S3 size box is 12x5x4

I would use them for long term storage with wheels off. Or a long body project. But not for wrenching on. I would have all 4 stands connected.

If you read Jake Lamont's book, How To Build And Maintain (yet legal) Formula Ford Ford 1600 Engines, [available from Pegasus Racing] Jake's first advice on the preparation of these carbs as found on page 75: "The first order of business is to remove all of the choke plates and actuating mechanism and toss them in the trash." I realize this advice is for race car prep, but could it apply to me as well? Hmmmm🤔

The carb was purchased on Fleabay. All the screw heads are perfect. I don't see any signs of previous work. I don't see any visual evidence of shaft bearings or bushings. There aren't any on the diagram. This 32/32 is a late 60s carb that lasted until the introduction of the 32/36 progressive which has shaft retaining bushes on both throttle shafts that bush the shafts in the housing. I think they are plastic.

Exactly why i don't want to muck with them unless I have to.

At home recovering from Sinuplasty and turbinate reduction. Believe me, any surgery to the nose sucks. but the roto-rooting was successful and it will all be good. During thd lucid moments, breaks in the pain fog, I managed to start tearing down the carb. So, I have a question to put to the gallery.... How far should I tear this down? Shall I leave the throttle and choke plates on the shafts? I ask because I could clean around them and I wouldn't have to worry about the screws coming out later. I believe this carb is untouched. Special thanks to Carburetor Shop for an excellent parts diagram.

I have read a few times that many prefer the aeros over the "airbrake". I have a set that came with my car but they came off first thing. they were attached directly to the scuttle, which was very "used" by a previous racer owner. I was going for pretty and the classic look so new scuttle and full wind screen and the wipers went on. I can tell you the full scren buffetting is punishing if your ears happen to be in the turbulence. Therefore side screens and ear protection for me. I would prefer this to a rock or shard to the face any day. Personal vehicle dash cam:

Fuel pressure regulation... The electric pumps are the usual suspects for over pressuring. I am going back to the mechanical Ford as well. It delivers 3psi consistently regardless of engine speed. Either way, both kinds can fail and the mechanical can leak fuel into the oil. Yes, either way get a fuel regulator set to 3 psi and a way to test pressure with a gage. hey, Formula Ford uses mechanicals on the Kents.

no, we don't ask. We bring extra clutch cables and spark plugs with us.

Most likely had an axle upgrade. maybe a Quaife LSD too. Lucky you. $20k car

Um, yes. That engine is coming out for a refresh. If you don't get the lower oil seals done, the oil will get to the clutch. Good time to do the main bearings as well and check crank balance and flywheel runout. Send me a PM and I will mail you an extra copy of a Dave Bean catalog. I great source fir parts and technical is Burton Power in the UK. A good source of info is Classic Ford magazine. A lot of good archived info. See if your car happens to be listed on simplesevens.org

Welcome to the forum. Hope to see pics of '62. Left hand drive? You're asking fir a lot of stuff that needs a tuners touch. Idle issues could be many different things. Its a goose chase to tell you to look here, then there, etc. Just be reslistic that what you change now, may not be the fix. One of the best ways to get to know your 7 is to know the various cars it has parts from. For your engine, buy a service manual for the car that used your engine. Probably a Mk1 Cortina or Anglia, not sure about it. My limited expertise, if you call it that, is if you hace DCOEs, you need a dizzy with electronic advance. Caterham had put the Aldon on the Xflows. There are others like Petronics. You will want one programmed for your ignition curve and cam. But for idle, you have to check fuel pressure, carbs for float level and leaks, check spark plug wires. Don't be so quick to blame the timing. Pics! and buy this book https://www.amazon.com/Lotus-Seven-Preparation-Restoration-Maintenance/dp/185532153X

Good suggestions all. looks like the flange diameters on these is a secret. The 5 hole has been a standard for a while.

The 90s Cat VDOs are 6 bolt with a 2.25" bolt circle and a 2.125"/80mm flange dia. Edit: doesn't compute..correction coming I measured my tank depth at 8.25" deep.

I was hoping to find a tube type sender. This picture is not a recommendation im just using it for a visual example.

That's really nice. And your boot cover is perfect. Jealous.

You can find wrestling and driving shoes are thin enough, and the wrestling shoes should be cheaper because they don't have to be fired retarded.

If you got 3500lb mix concrete

S3 seat width is 16" between tunnel and body wall. find something that width, squeeze into it and decide what is tolerable. length won't be an issue with any S3 or SV. Foot well space might be. Another thing that may not be well tolerated is the wheel arch hoop always there to jab your armpit or elbow into.

I will measure it later today. To clarify, the strip I am holding is the Caterham Item. Sorry, I can't let it go, Im going to use it. I would have used it currently, but it wouldn't fit under a new screen. The bottom of the screen frame is flatter than the scuttle curvature, causing the two to contact and making it nearly impossible to fit the screen with the trim in place. The Lotus screen I have fits my scuttle perfectly. I could continue to use the Lotus screen but I wanted the blue tint and supposedly safer glass. Im trying to figure out how to solve this. 🤯 Damn, after 10 years of figuring, it just occurred to me... Put the new glass in the old frame. Glass thickness shall determine that. The takeaway here for all you 7 builders is, test fit the windscreen without the weather strip first to check for conflicts. Here is my windscreen assembly procedure advice. Everything here is based on my own errors. Know your screen fasteners! Don't assume the the side screws are the same pitch as other screens. Have the right parts and test fit. Use plenty of masking tape on the scuttle sides under the stanchions. Attach the stanchions loosely first, without the screen. If you are using a stanchion bracket, Be prepared to adjust the height of this with shims if needed. (you probably didn't know these existed, did you?) Place the screen between the stanchions using masking tape wraped loosely around the upper stanchions sticking to the front and back of the screen to keep to keep the screen upright (assuming you are working alone, as most 7ers will be). Begin threading the lower side screen screws evenly on both sides, then align the top screws and loosly fit the screws. Observe the rubber strip to see if it is remaining in place. Remove masking tape from under the stanchions before they get too tight. Snug down the six screen screws until the stanchions are flush with the screen frame. Tighten the six screen screws to hand tight, or, remove and replace one at a time applying blue Loctite. Then tighten to hand tight. When the lower stanchions are tightened, there will be considerable tension applied to these screws as the stanchions twist. They don't need tension now. Feed the ends of the weather strip down under the stanchion triangle and trim as necessary. Personally, I like to trim off the top "T" portion where it meets the scuttle and stanchion pinch point. Tighten the lower stanchion screws. If attaching directly to the scuttle sides, use doubled fender washers and lock nuts on the inside. Stainless steel or geade 8 if you want to get fancy. If these fasters are going to get sheared, you got worse problems to worry about. Finally, a little trick. On the upper screen fasteners, apply an index mark of some kind to indicate backing out. I would make a little dot with a starter punch, or score a line at the 90° point. About stanscion tension and twisting, I don't know if its an intentional design, but I don't like it. However, it seems this is how the things are supplied, almost flat. The difference between the screen angle and scuttle angle, I roughly estimate is 20°. Thats a lot of tension applied. I don't know if it's supposed to be that way so take it into account with my suggestions.